Suspension

[KHsonic03]

I noticed that some people have had questions regarding suspension, i.e coilovers. I have Maximum Motorsport's full line of suspension for the 03 cobra, except their K-member. I also have the Kenny Brown front control arms. I have a lot to say about all of these parts, so anyone who is contemplating, feel free to ask. I did all of the installation myself using a two post lift, and I have digital pictures of everything. Just thought I would throw that out there. I know when I was researching all of this, I wish there was someone who had done the stuff, and had opinions on it.

 

[nycobra]

Thanks for the offer. I'm contemplating MM coil overs. Did you stay with stock struts and shocks? What spring rates are you using? How are the road manners for street driving? How long for the install? Is it worth it if you don't do any auto x, but just like the twisties on public streets? Any install pics would be greatly appreciated. Also how difficult to get good alignment after install with caster camber plates? Corner weighting? I think this is a good start.



:beer:

 

[KHsonic03]

I went with the Bilstein sport shocks and struts. The stock ones would underdampen the springs that I went with. The spring rates were 400 in the front and 600 in the rear. The added weight in the front (cast iron block) attributes to these higher rates, and the rear is obvious (IRS). I have heard of people using the stock shocks/struts w/coilovers, but IMHO, I think the car would be way underdampened. Alot has to do with what you are going for. My car will be mainly a street car with some O/T. I wanted a more aggressive ride that will also kick ass at the track (given the driver's ability) I will be honest and say that I have not driven the car much, due to the fact that I just bought it late Feb, and the weather in CT has been pretty shi**y.
This is my fourth Cobra, and I have done all of the installation on the previous cars, so given that, installation time was not all that bad. If you have the proper tools, and some basic know-how, you should be fine. I like to take my time, and I did it on weekends only, so it took a while. But I also installed alot more than just coilovers.
You can adjust caster/camber yourself if you have a very useful tool--a digital protractor. It is pricey (about $100), but you can do alot with it. Having said that, I do not have one, so I brought it to a local speed shop to "tune" it. Corner weighting is not necessary, but it is helpful, and very nice in the end. Just to give you an idea, I measured stock ride heights, and they varied up to 1/4"!! You can adjust the coilovers to your perfect ride height, and set them all evenly. That my not be the best way, but it is a start. Just remember something that is far too often overlooked; EVERYTHING changes when you lower a vehicle. Toe, bump steer, caster, camber, roll center, roll axis, tire wear, etc. So if you want to have optimum handling, take everything into consideration. Well, that's a start. Any other q's, let me know. Here are some basic pics. (The car is getting cleaned shortly;-) )

 

[KHsonic03]

another

 

[KHsonic03]

again

 

[KHsonic03]

and of course, the exhaust

 

[KHsonic03]

bump steer

 

[KHsonic03]

MM IRS bushings--PITA to install, but I have some good tips and some pics to help.

 

[JB]

Originally posted by KHsonic03
MM IRS bushings--PITA to install, but I have some good tips and some pics to help.

feel free to share those with us :beer:

 

[KHsonic03]

Well, the first day I tried to install them, it took me 8 hrs to finish one. I was pissed. Over night, I came up with some ideas, and the next day I had the second bushing out in 15 min., cleaned up in another 20 min, and installed in another 10 min. The tools I used are in the pic below. Basically, get a universal puller (got mine from Sears) construct a peice of metal to push out the bushing (you could probably use a washer, but you have to find the right size). Drill a hole in the center for the point of the puller to go through. Then find two other pieces of metal; one for the front of the bushing, and one for the rear. Finally, get a piece of pipe the size of the shell of the bushing, and cut a sliver off approx 5/8". This will allow the new bushing to go all the way through.
To get the old bushings out: drill as many holes as possible through the bushing with a GOOD drill bit. I tried to stay as close to the perimeter as possible without damaging the metal sleeve. Then take your puller and homemade setup, and push that ****er out. It may feel like something is going to snap, but keep going--it will eventually come out. (see pics)
To clean shell: I got as much out as I could with a common flat-head screw driver and a hammer (use it as a chisel). I also used the drill bit a little here too. If you have long needle nose plyers, they will help to grab the rubber and pull it out. Then use a drill with a 1.5" rolling grinder ($1 at sears hardware). This is a pretty aggressive grinder, so be careful not to damage the sleeve. As the final stage, use a rolling sander (like MM directions say), and clean it to the bare metal. DO NOT LEAVE ANY BEHIND. Note: You will notice that if you feel the inside of the sleeve, it is staged, just like the new bushings. You may have to go from the inside as well to get off all of the old rubber. (took me a while to realize this:rollseyes ).
To reinstall new bushing: Grease well! Insert from the inside toward you. You can start it by hand (push it in as far as you can). Then get your heavy artillary. Use the setup as a pusher. It helps to have two people. Clamp the bushing and align everything, then start cranking with a ratchet. The sucker will slide right in. (See pic) Use some WD 40 to lube the puller threads. Note: Once cranked tight, I let the setup sit like this for at least 5 min to fully set, otherwise, it might back out after the pressure is released. Insert crush sleeve using the puller the same way.
To realign with subframe: This may be tricky. For me, it wasn't that bad, but my irs wanted to move forward in the subframe because of the pressure of the new bushings (larger than stock). You just have to fiddle with it. To finally get it right, I inserted the front bushings first, then tightened, then raised the rear. The weight of the car should push them in. If you have trouble with one bushing in particular, reclamp it as tight as you can, let it sit for a while, then release it and IMMEDIATELY jack the rear end back up. It should slide in.
Whoo! That was alot to write:sleeping: The pics should help alot, but if anyone has q's, let me know.

 

[KHsonic03]

To remove old bushing...

 

[KHsonic03]

Old bushing

 

[KHsonic03]

To insert new bushing...

 

[KHsonic03]

In surgery...

 

[jrh99]

KHsonic03,

Where in CT are you? I'm in RI and I'm looking for 03 that has the 03 Bassani exhaust note to my 99 version. If your close enough maybe we can meet up and talk cars for a bit.

Joe

 

[KHsonic03]

Where in RI are you? My brother lives in Westerly. I live in Meriden.

 

[six speed]

Kenny brown control arm why not mm did you think of griggs I know you put alot time in this packages why do you fill it is the best. I need to do the same and need some help. I have track the car three times and it is not that bad I just hope it handles better when I do the mods.

 

[toofast4u]

Great pictures that is something I forgot when I was doing mine. I am surprised you went with Bilstein sport struts and shocks. I have 425/650 and went with Bilstein MM race spec struts and Bilstein 00R spec shocks. Also I am surprise you went with KB LCA I have the MM LCA with poly and they are very sturdy and solid pieces. The only thing I am missing now is a tubular k-member which I am going to go with Griggs in a couple of months when I do long-tubes.

 

[KHsonic03]

It's funny that you guys ask the question about the KB arms. I did alot of research, and actually ordered the MM arms. I realized that you had to cut the k-member to install the arms, and did not want to do this to my brand new '03 (with 150 miles). So I sent them back and went with KB--BIG mistake. I had a very long post at Corner carvers.com--check it out. The thread is entitled, "Theory behind shortening track width." We established many things, mainly that the KB arms reduced my TW by almost an inch!!! Needless to say, I pulled the arms off just this past weekend, and sent them back yesterday. I have also recently decided to go with the Griggs K-member, and either their arms, or MM's. Preferably MM's. I have to do some more research to find out if they will fit on the Griggs K-member. The moral of the story is..... well, I probably shouldn't say it until I get my money back from KB.;-)

 

[six speed]

What you are doing is the hardest part of the car but when you are done you will have more fun than anybody roadrace opentrack you just can't be it. To make the 03' the fastest car at the track will be hard the stock parts are not bad but there is some fast cars know day. I may do the cobra R springs and shocks its just easy to do till I see or here of the best suspention. Keep us posted