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T56 magnum grinding
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<blockquote data-quote="speedfreak94" data-source="post: 14395881" data-attributes="member: 104543"><p>Okay well I've got a list of pointers for you. Please note, that I have no way of knowing what your skill level or familiarity with the products in question is, so forgive me if at any point it sounds like I'm talking down. I just want to help. That said, lets dig into this...</p><p></p><p>For starters, your clutch is almost undoubtedly dragging, as evidenced by the small 1-2 and 2-3 grinds (aka 'nibble') coming from your brand new trans. I'm not sure where you heard that Magnum synchros are "fragile" (I would not agree) but you are right in not wanting to continue driving it that way as you will end up ruining said synchros rather quickly. Now when it comes to addressing the clutch release (or lack thereof), there are many factors/components that could be impacting you as well as potential solutions. If it were me, the first thing I would do is adjust your firewall adjuster or cable to eliminate the air gap you left in it, thus eliminating lost travel in the release system. I know there are two very different schools of thought on the subject of air gap for the TO bearing, but personally I see no harm in preloading the bearing slightly--especially if it saves your synchros. Just be mindful that as the clutch discs wear the diaphragm will extend out further towards the TO bearing; meaning that you had better monitor the cable adjustment from time-to-time or you run a very real risk of prematurely wearing out your clutch. Factory hydraulic 'CSC' bearings in '05-up Mustangs ride against the pressure plate fingers constantly without issue. A key difference however is that they have nothing mechanical to stop them from moving back as the clutch wears; just a light spring pressure that keeps the bearing trapped between the pressure plate and trans at all times.</p><p></p><p>If you don't like or cannot fix the problem with that option, than another thing you could try is an adjustable pivot stud to move the fork away from the trans at the ball stud end, thus giving you more travel at the cable end. However this is obviously not an easy task as you may have to R&R the trans several times to get it just right. Furthermore, at that point you also need to be aware of the backside of the fork moving too far back and bottoming out against the trans itself--something that could happen anyway as your clutch wears over time, so be on the lookout.</p><p></p><p>Other factors that tend to plague just about any Fox/SN Mustang are things like cable stretch and firewall flex; especially when using a clutch with a high clamp load/pedal effort. Aside from that, while I'm not recommending you rag on a brand new gearbox until its broke in, don't be afraid to be a bit firm with the shifts. In my experience, Magnum transmission actually feel a bit 'clunkier' when you don't spank on them!</p><p></p><p>Good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="speedfreak94, post: 14395881, member: 104543"] Okay well I've got a list of pointers for you. Please note, that I have no way of knowing what your skill level or familiarity with the products in question is, so forgive me if at any point it sounds like I'm talking down. I just want to help. That said, lets dig into this... For starters, your clutch is almost undoubtedly dragging, as evidenced by the small 1-2 and 2-3 grinds (aka 'nibble') coming from your brand new trans. I'm not sure where you heard that Magnum synchros are "fragile" (I would not agree) but you are right in not wanting to continue driving it that way as you will end up ruining said synchros rather quickly. Now when it comes to addressing the clutch release (or lack thereof), there are many factors/components that could be impacting you as well as potential solutions. If it were me, the first thing I would do is adjust your firewall adjuster or cable to eliminate the air gap you left in it, thus eliminating lost travel in the release system. I know there are two very different schools of thought on the subject of air gap for the TO bearing, but personally I see no harm in preloading the bearing slightly--especially if it saves your synchros. Just be mindful that as the clutch discs wear the diaphragm will extend out further towards the TO bearing; meaning that you had better monitor the cable adjustment from time-to-time or you run a very real risk of prematurely wearing out your clutch. Factory hydraulic 'CSC' bearings in '05-up Mustangs ride against the pressure plate fingers constantly without issue. A key difference however is that they have nothing mechanical to stop them from moving back as the clutch wears; just a light spring pressure that keeps the bearing trapped between the pressure plate and trans at all times. If you don't like or cannot fix the problem with that option, than another thing you could try is an adjustable pivot stud to move the fork away from the trans at the ball stud end, thus giving you more travel at the cable end. However this is obviously not an easy task as you may have to R&R the trans several times to get it just right. Furthermore, at that point you also need to be aware of the backside of the fork moving too far back and bottoming out against the trans itself--something that could happen anyway as your clutch wears over time, so be on the lookout. Other factors that tend to plague just about any Fox/SN Mustang are things like cable stretch and firewall flex; especially when using a clutch with a high clamp load/pedal effort. Aside from that, while I'm not recommending you rag on a brand new gearbox until its broke in, don't be afraid to be a bit firm with the shifts. In my experience, Magnum transmission actually feel a bit 'clunkier' when you don't spank on them! Good luck! [/QUOTE]
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