Temp gauge in over "M" in "NORMAL", is that OK?

[JaguarS4R]

I bought it this way but I seriously think my procharger intercooler is the result bc it blocks the radiator entirely. Thoughts?

 

[Tabres]

Unless you're pulling dangerous temps from a datalog or an aftermarket gauge I wouldn't worry about it, honestly. The stock gauge isn't an accurate reference.

And fwiw, my car has no A/C, a 180 thermostat, a 3-row radiator, adjusted fan settings... always runs 200-210 on my AutoMeter gauge no matter what the ambient air temperature is and it has always ran perfectly fine.

 

[Oceanside78]

No it is not an issue to run cool. it is better in most opinions.

For emmissions reasons almost every factory car since fuel injection in 1986 was designed to run in the 220° range. Some a little colder. Factory stat is 196° which some will say 196-204°

IIRC factory high speed fan setting is 210 or 212° so over 200 from the factory is expected.

Your car has a 180 stat. Did you do anything else or did you buy it this way?

I don't recommend a 180 stat without lowering the fan on/off settings.


With that said, I stand by my statement that upper range of the N O R M A L in the factory gauge is not overheating or an issue.

When it hits the RED, then it is an issue. lol

I replaced the stat because it was stuck open and would rarely even reach the N in normal. Bought a replacement from tousley ford, I'm 99% sure it was 188 or 189* and replaced it. Refilled and burped it which was easy, didn't give me any trouble, and now heats up a bit more but still never as high as anyone on here. I have literally only heard my fan kick on 3 times, once was when I hot lapped it at the drag strip. My data logs show low temps as well, it's not just the gauge reading low. I was concerned because it was causing me to run rich, but now I just drive it. My cars kinda a lost cause

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

Hmm. My car runs between the M and A in the stock guage. Not sure what temp that is but the guage says it's normal. It's a 110+ and humid every damn day for a couple months here. You can't drive in AZ with no AC. If I turn my AC on the needle rockets to the A and feels sluggish. If I do a WOT pull or one pass down the track my car goes from the O ,with high fan on to keep it cool before a run (I have a manual switch for this), before I'm even at the 1/4 mark the needle is over by the M and A again (obviously I switched the high fan off for the run). Even though I have read many accounts of it actually being fine in that region and that they were made to run around 220; it still stresses me out. I'm throwing a 180 stat in today and changing the fan temps. Although it's annoying to have the low temp fan on all the time lol.

 

[JaguarS4R]

What should I do? replace the thermostat or just put some water wetter and see what happens? I kept asking about my procharger intercooler but I get no response

 

[STAMPEDE3]

The intercooler may restrict a little airflow but not much.It isn't an issue.
If you have a tuner to adjust fan settings then try a 180 stat. If not then leave it alone and/or just try the water wetter.

Or, just go drive it. You're not hurting it.

 

[RDJ]

Bought my '97 in '99 with 29k miles, stock. It has ALWAYS run on the left side of the "a" at its absolute hottest. Still completely stock cooling system, have always run Water Wetter, 60/40 distilled water to coolant, and a stock temp. thermostat.

Especially with the blower, it doesn't sound like you're running much hotter than it would if you were stock.

yeah he actually posted this in the wrong section. apparently he has an 03 which is different than the sn-95s. for a 94-95 to run on the M is pretty normal and most fixt it with a bigger radiator and cooler t-stat. The 03s-04 will run pretty hot if you have air in the system.

 

[KCRN12]

Burp the cooling system. Leave the radiator cap off and run the car for about 15 min. Top it off and go test drive. If the intercooler is flowing the way it should, it shouldn't matter if it's "covering" your radiator completely. AC condensers sit in front of radiators on pretty much every car made, and they cover the entire radiator. Make sure there's not something else blocking the flow, but the intercooler shouldn't be an issue. You can also consider doing the cooling mod to get better coolant flow in the back of the heads.

 

[Nickynick]

i had this same issue. radiator cap was leaking like insane, changed that, then pressure blew housing on tstat, and still had stock tstat and housing, but i ended up running free without a tstat and have a moshimoto in back up for the winter. i also have the fan on a switch that i never turn off, on a cool night, it runs right at the "O" and on a hot day between "M-A" without puching but runs hotter when workin it.

 

[Federico Garza]

Hmm. My car runs between the M and A in the stock guage. Not sure what temp that is but the guage says it's normal. It's a 110+ and humid every damn day for a couple months here. You can't drive in AZ with no AC. If I turn my AC on the needle rockets to the A and feels sluggish. If I do a WOT pull or one pass down the track my car goes from the O ,with high fan on to keep it cool before a run (I have a manual switch for this), before I'm even at the 1/4 mark the needle is over by the M and A again (obviously I switched the high fan off for the run). Even though I have read many accounts of it actually being fine in that region and that they were made to run around 220; it still stresses me out. I'm throwing a 180 stat in today and changing the fan temps. Although it's annoying to have the low temp fan on all the time lol.

Same boat, same weather as you ( 1hr away from yuma), changed out to a 180 t. stat, watter wetter and distilled water, rigged the CCM to run the high speed fan all the time.

With out AC i run at the O (1/3) with the AC it will creep up to the A wich I dont like.

So im guessing I need a bigger radiator, im missing the air damm wich is my next purchase, but im out of answers.... HELP:shrug:

 

[Dsg-shaker]

Seems like some are over-thinking this, op needs to verify the temp before doing anything, check with a digital thermometer or install a aftermarket gauge... RDJ and Barry have hit the nail on the head imo

 

[white98snake]

These engines run hot. But like stated above the L is borderline overheating.

Radiator flush and new coolant + water wetter + 180 tstat and a proper temp gauge

 

[Federico Garza]

Almost forgot mine's a 95 it has a new original replacement radiator...

 

[nitrojunk]

how do yhou test the low speed fan ? Mine will do the same as everyone elses.. driving on the highway no issues - once i get into city driving it will creep up getting to the A but then I believe the high speed fan kicks in .. if it starts to creep and I turn on the AC but set it to hot, it will go from A to R in like 30 seconds .. so not sure whats up ..

I have a 180 stat and a mishimoto but I think i need to burp mine

 

[Shifty Powers]

My car runs right about there when its hot. I need to get a tuner though to turn my fans on sooner since I have a 170 t-stat. Otherwise it drives fine and runs right where it needs to

 

[Federico Garza]

UPDATE, got a friend to loan me an IR thermometer, the needle on the gauge was at the A, the IR thermo showed 190 pointed at the radiaotr inlet. AC blowing ICE cold 54 deg idling in the shadow ... I will take the plastic cover off tonite, and measure the top of the core right by the cover just beside the inlet hose.

110 deg weather outside...

So shiver me timbers and blow me down, stock gauge is worth a crap... and the 1 row original rad seems to do its job fine with the fan speed on high, autometer gauges are on the way...