I recently replaced a broken aftermarket radio in my 2000 Mustang GT. I originally didn't have any use for the radio as it was perfectly fine driving around listening to the exhaust without the radio . I tested the brand new aftermarket radio and it worked great. I mounted the radio and the next day I went to start my car. It cranked and would not start. At first I didn't notice anything until the second try I saw my theft light on. The car worked completely fine before the radio swap so I'm assuming somehow it is a wiring issue. I researched this topic as much as I could with a lot of threads being a few years old. Can anyone please point me in the right direction on what I should do next to troubleshoot this? I'm not sure if there is an updated procedure on how to troubleshoot and resolve this issue? It appears to be PATS related. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks.
Theft Light - Crank No Start
- Thread starter NightRyder
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2017
- Messages
- 23
Yes, I have the Mach audio system.
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2017
- Messages
- 23
Just curious is your steering wheel locked by chance also? If your theft light is on try Locking the steering wheel and starting just some troubleshooting
Sent from my R1 HD using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Sent from my R1 HD using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Thanks for the advice. I will give it a shot tonight.
On my 01 I was messing around with stereo wiring, test fitting a unit ect. and I ended up blowing a fuse in the process. Think I touched a terminal to the metal bracket in there, but the next day same thing, my car wouldn't start. It also wouldn't even crank either, but Might still be worth it just to check all of your fuses if you haven't yet.
Thank you for feedback. I was as careful as I could be but it's definitely possible I may have shorted a fuse without realizing it. It would be awesome if that's what it ends up being. I will track down a fuse box diagram and check tonight. Thanks again.
np, just a thought. It was in the dash mounted fuse panel. Sorry I didn't look up to see what # it was.
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2017
- Messages
- 23
Also if steering wheel lock doesn't work try setting Lock and setting alarm then disarm and enter and try to start then if nothing have you disconnected battery and left it for an hour or so it may help reset assuming nothing was triggered and battery was disconnected when installing head unit more troubleshooting for you
Sent from my R1 HD using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Sent from my R1 HD using the svtperformance.com mobile app
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2017
- Messages
- 23
Thanks again for all the suggestions everyone. I tried all suggestions above by locking the steering wheel and disconnecting the battery and still no luck unfortunately. I noticed a 30 amp mini fuse blown under the drivers side dash. I replaced it and i saw it blow again so something is definitely up. There must be a wire I forgot to ground. I found a fuse diagram and it appears to be fuse#43 (GEM, Master window/door lock). Not sure if this is related to the original issue that would cause the theft light to turn on or a separate issue? It could be PATS related. I'm going to research PATS and see what I can learn and try and troubleshoot the issue. This has been frustrating to say the least. I will post an update if I get it fixed in the event it happens to someone else.
Don't over think it, Better just pull your stereo out again and make sure you didn't pinch a wire, it also could possibly be an issue with that head unit you put in, some kind of internal short going on. Try plugging your old one in if you still have it and see if that fuse continues to blow.
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2017
- Messages
- 23
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2017
- Messages
- 23
"There seems to be a lot of confusion about the replacement of a Mach 460 head unit in a 2001 Mustang. I switched mine out with the help of many people in this forum, so I figured I’d compile all of my information together and post it. This may apply to the 02 and 03 setups, but I am not sure if the system is exactly the same. Someone would have to verify that.
First, an overview of the system. The system consists of 4 tweeters, 4 subs, and 3 amps. I’m not positive on the size because I’ve never removed them. I believe the subs are 5x7s though. The first amp is actually contained within the head unit and runs all four tweeters. The second amp runs the front subs and the third runs the rear subs. The reason that things get interesting replacing the head unit is that you need to send an amplified signal and an un-amplified signal to the amps that run the subs.
Here’s what you need to replace the head unit:
1. A new head-unit with RCA outs on it. It is ideal to have a high-pass and low-pass crossover both built in as well. If you don’t have those crossovers, you will have to use the crossovers listed below in 4 and 5.
2. Scosche Sound Kase SKFD223 - $25
This fills up the hole that is left underneath your new head unit. The space is filled with an area that holds 3 CDs.
http://www.cardomain.com/shop/item.pl?sku=SCOSKFD223
3. METRA 70-5519 Harness - $18
This is the only harness on the market that will work.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=265-790
4. Low-pass crossover for your subs (not needed if your head unit has a low-pass crossover built in)
Go to http://www.partsexpress.com and search for “FMOD” and choose the frequency that you like
5. Bass Blockers for your tweeters (not needed if your head unit has a high-pass crossover built in)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-P3Rgdy...asp?s=0&cc=01&g=761&est=&search=bass+blockers
Choose the frequency that fits your liking.
The key to the entire setup is the Metra harness. This is the ONLY harness on the market that is completely plug-and-play with the 2001 Mach 460 system. I purchased the Best harness (which was originally recommended to me), and found out the hard way that it does not work.
When wiring the Metra harness to your radio, follow the following guidelines:
- Combine all grounds from the Metra harnesses to the ground on your radio’s wiring harness.
- Combine the amp turn-ons with the ignition-on power on your radio’s wiring harness.
- Plug the RCAs from the back of your radio into the Metra harness. If you don’t have a low-pass crossover on your radio, you will need to plug the FMOD crossovers in here.
- Wire the L/F+-, R/F+-, L/R+-, and R/R+- from your radio’s wiring harness to the corresponding wires on the Metra harness. This will send an amplified signal to your tweeters. If you don’t have a high-pass crossover, you will need to put the bass blockers in here.
Once you wire all of this, you are ready to replace your head unit. If you don’t know how to get into the center console, follow the beginning of this article:
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/speedsound/ssv.html
Once you get your Mach 460 head unit out, you can mount your Scosche kit where the radio used to be. Then you can just plug your harnesses into the Mustang harnesses and you’re ready to test your new head unit. If your crossovers are contained in your head unit, then you will need to set them immediately before turning up the speakers to keep from sending the wrong frequencies to them and damaging them. If you used the FMODs and bass blockers, then you should be good to go.
I've attached a picture of my new head unit so you can see how it looks with the Scosche kit around it. The kit also adds 3 CD storage slots to your system, so that is nice. Overall, I have been happy with just replacing the head unit. The sound quality is pretty much the same as the original Mach 460. I really just wanted to add MP3 functionality and Sirius to my setup and this worked perfectly.
If anyone has any questions about this, let me know and I’ll be more than happy to give any input I have. I hope this helps you guys out."
Sent from my R1 HD using the svtperformance.com mobile app
First, an overview of the system. The system consists of 4 tweeters, 4 subs, and 3 amps. I’m not positive on the size because I’ve never removed them. I believe the subs are 5x7s though. The first amp is actually contained within the head unit and runs all four tweeters. The second amp runs the front subs and the third runs the rear subs. The reason that things get interesting replacing the head unit is that you need to send an amplified signal and an un-amplified signal to the amps that run the subs.
Here’s what you need to replace the head unit:
1. A new head-unit with RCA outs on it. It is ideal to have a high-pass and low-pass crossover both built in as well. If you don’t have those crossovers, you will have to use the crossovers listed below in 4 and 5.
2. Scosche Sound Kase SKFD223 - $25
This fills up the hole that is left underneath your new head unit. The space is filled with an area that holds 3 CDs.
http://www.cardomain.com/shop/item.pl?sku=SCOSKFD223
3. METRA 70-5519 Harness - $18
This is the only harness on the market that will work.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=265-790
4. Low-pass crossover for your subs (not needed if your head unit has a low-pass crossover built in)
Go to http://www.partsexpress.com and search for “FMOD” and choose the frequency that you like
5. Bass Blockers for your tweeters (not needed if your head unit has a high-pass crossover built in)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-P3Rgdy...asp?s=0&cc=01&g=761&est=&search=bass+blockers
Choose the frequency that fits your liking.
The key to the entire setup is the Metra harness. This is the ONLY harness on the market that is completely plug-and-play with the 2001 Mach 460 system. I purchased the Best harness (which was originally recommended to me), and found out the hard way that it does not work.
When wiring the Metra harness to your radio, follow the following guidelines:
- Combine all grounds from the Metra harnesses to the ground on your radio’s wiring harness.
- Combine the amp turn-ons with the ignition-on power on your radio’s wiring harness.
- Plug the RCAs from the back of your radio into the Metra harness. If you don’t have a low-pass crossover on your radio, you will need to plug the FMOD crossovers in here.
- Wire the L/F+-, R/F+-, L/R+-, and R/R+- from your radio’s wiring harness to the corresponding wires on the Metra harness. This will send an amplified signal to your tweeters. If you don’t have a high-pass crossover, you will need to put the bass blockers in here.
Once you wire all of this, you are ready to replace your head unit. If you don’t know how to get into the center console, follow the beginning of this article:
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/speedsound/ssv.html
Once you get your Mach 460 head unit out, you can mount your Scosche kit where the radio used to be. Then you can just plug your harnesses into the Mustang harnesses and you’re ready to test your new head unit. If your crossovers are contained in your head unit, then you will need to set them immediately before turning up the speakers to keep from sending the wrong frequencies to them and damaging them. If you used the FMODs and bass blockers, then you should be good to go.
I've attached a picture of my new head unit so you can see how it looks with the Scosche kit around it. The kit also adds 3 CD storage slots to your system, so that is nice. Overall, I have been happy with just replacing the head unit. The sound quality is pretty much the same as the original Mach 460. I really just wanted to add MP3 functionality and Sirius to my setup and this worked perfectly.
If anyone has any questions about this, let me know and I’ll be more than happy to give any input I have. I hope this helps you guys out."
Sent from my R1 HD using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions and input on everything. After troubleshooting everything I was able to get the car started. The issue was with the battery. I picked up a new battery, hooked it up, and cranked it for a few seconds and it fired right up. I gotta say that I was surprised it was the battery since my old one was able to get the car to crank what seemed to be just fine. My old battery was four years old but seemed to be in good working order or so I thought. I did notice that the theft light still appears to be blinking when I shut off my car so I'm hoping I don't drive my car somewhere and then get stranded because PATS decides the shut my car down again. I thought I would update the thread in case this happens to anyone else. I'm not a electronics expert and I don't fully understand how a low battery could trip the PATS system but it happened. If this is an issue for anyone else, it may be worth trying to replace your battery if at first glance all fuses and wires seem to be ok.
My sons car did the same thing yours did after we first got it. Start fine sometimes, not start other times with the theft light blinking. One time wouldn't start for an entire day but did after the battery was disconnected and reconnected. Ended up being the fuel rail pressure sensor.
Users who are viewing this thread
