This month's issue of Muscle Mustangs

Cop I Am

Run whatcha brung
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The new issue has an article on Hellion's twin turbo's thru the eaton. It made crazy power with twin 66mm's and a stock s/c with stock upper & lower. Boost was around 42-43 pounds. RWHP was 1,188 and RWTQ was 1,xxx. John Urist said he was going to do further testing to upwards of 60 pounds of boost.

Don you are gonna be making crazy power. I hope it all comes together for you.

Article starts on pg 126.
 

dhenderson67

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The new issue has an article on Hellion's twin turbo's thru the eaton. It made crazy power with twin 66mm's and a stock s/c with stock upper & lower. Boost was around 42-43 pounds. RWHP was 1,188 and RWTQ was 1,xxx. John Urist said he was going to do further testing to upwards of 60 pounds of boost.

Don you are gonna be making crazy power. I hope it all comes together for you.

Article starts on pg 126.


Not going with the twin now... Pockets are a little too empty. Hope to save enough to do it next summer.
 

Blk03SVTCobra

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Am I the only one who thinks that the bottom ends are going to be an issue? 42-60 psi?! That's got to shorten the life of a stock Cobra motor...

Don't get me wrong, it's a really awesome kit. But I wouldn't even consider it unless I had a built motor.
 

sunburned

I miss my torque
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Am I the only one who thinks that the bottom ends are going to be an issue? 42-60 psi?! That's got to shorten the life of a stock Cobra motor...

Don't get me wrong, it's a really awesome kit. But I wouldn't even consider it unless I had a built motor.

I'm thinking the same thing. Really strong, possibly billet, shortblock and really strong head gaskets and studs. Kudos to Urist for making a killer kit though.
 

dhenderson67

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Am I the only one who thinks that the bottom ends are going to be an issue? 42-60 psi?! That's got to shorten the life of a stock Cobra motor...

Don't get me wrong, it's a really awesome kit. But I wouldn't even consider it unless I had a built motor.

I know I am not up to par with most off you, but I don't think any stock motor is going to handle that much boost.
 

TRBO VNM

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they made that boost on a stock motor.

don't forget the benefit of turbo's. you can turn the boost down in a second. no need to run that kind of bosot all the time. I believe all they did was put head studs in because yes, at the 60# level it lifted heads. I don't know about the 40# level. I haven't read the article, so there might be more info in it.

personally, I would agree that you should have the full built motor setup to handle it. but that doesn't mean the stock shortblock can't. I think the trick will be proper head studs and gaskets.

they did turn the boost down and made in the 600 range. so with that setup, you can stay on low boost and make great power still.
 

dhenderson67

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they made that boost on a stock motor.

don't forget the benefit of turbo's. you can turn the boost down in a second. no need to run that kind of bosot all the time. I believe all they did was put head studs in because yes, at the 60# level it lifted heads. I don't know about the 40# level. I haven't read the article, so there might be more info in it.

personally, I would agree that you should have the full built motor setup to handle it. but that doesn't mean the stock shortblock can't. I think the trick will be proper head studs and gaskets.

they did turn the boost down and made in the 600 range. so with that setup, you can stay on low boost and make great power still.


You would also need Jason money :poke:
 

Hissssnsvt

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the tune would have to be spot on with not error, otherwise its gonna live a short life

This goes without saying for any high HP car. Colder burning plugs and high octane race fuel with help reduce the risk of hurting your motor if detonation occurs but the tune still needs to be right.

And I agree, at that boost level, you will most likely lift the heads before hurting the short block if the tune is right.
 

TRBO VNM

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Urist will be making Pappito Busy!!!!

:lol: Al is already busy. I would go with him, however, when I do a motor I might consider something else. all depends. Al doesn't like building the type of motor I want or modular strokers from my understanding. I know I will stay away from VT.
 

phillySVT

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:lol: Al is already busy. I would go with him, however, when I do a motor I might consider something else. all depends. Al doesn't like building the type of motor I want or modular strokers from my understanding. I know I will stay away from VT.

:idea:
MMR 4.6 Race 325 Cubic Inch, 5.3 Liter Stroker Mod 1400 (up to 1400HP)

*Brand New FORD RACING BIG BORE ALUMINUM BLOCK, torque plate bored and honed, this is a block designed specifically by ford for 3.700 Bore. THIS IS NOT A TEKSID BLOCK THAT HAS BEEN MACHINED AND SLEEVED, MMR DOES NOT SELL OR RECOMMEND THIS DUE TO HEAD GASKET SEALING ISSUES AND WATER LEAKING BETWEEN THE SLEEVES AND INTO THE OIL!!!

*New 4340 Forged MMR STROKER Crankshaft, includes additional heat treat w/micro polished journals at no extra charge

*New 4340 Manley Pro-series Billet Rods w/ARP 2000 Rod bolts( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest I-beam rod available for your 4.6

*New Forged MMR/Manley or Diamond Custom pistons 3.700 Bore size (High or low compression)

*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)

*Federal Mogul Competition series heat treated Rod and Main bearings

*ARP main stud kit for maintaining correct cap location under the hardest of loads

*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.



Shortblock Options:

Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt) $399.99

Upgrade to MMR block side bolts (recommended for 500+ HP) +$44.99

MMR Street/Racing Oil Pump (highly recommended) + $179.99

ARP Headstuds and MMR 3.700 Bore Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $399.99

MMR windage tray and hardware kit (+15HP) + 129.99
 

N2DAMYSTIC

WAS THERE A BILL OF SALE
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I noticed they used the PMS on this application. Is a complete engine management system needed for this setup?
 

flowgoode

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:idea:
MMR 4.6 Race 325 Cubic Inch, 5.3 Liter Stroker Mod 1400 (up to 1400HP)

*Brand New FORD RACING BIG BORE ALUMINUM BLOCK, torque plate bored and honed, this is a block designed specifically by ford for 3.700 Bore. THIS IS NOT A TEKSID BLOCK THAT HAS BEEN MACHINED AND SLEEVED, MMR DOES NOT SELL OR RECOMMEND THIS DUE TO HEAD GASKET SEALING ISSUES AND WATER LEAKING BETWEEN THE SLEEVES AND INTO THE OIL!!!

*New 4340 Forged MMR STROKER Crankshaft, includes additional heat treat w/micro polished journals at no extra charge

*New 4340 Manley Pro-series Billet Rods w/ARP 2000 Rod bolts( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest I-beam rod available for your 4.6

*New Forged MMR/Manley or Diamond Custom pistons 3.700 Bore size (High or low compression)

*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)

*Federal Mogul Competition series heat treated Rod and Main bearings

*ARP main stud kit for maintaining correct cap location under the hardest of loads

*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.



Shortblock Options:

Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt) $399.99

Upgrade to MMR block side bolts (recommended for 500+ HP) +$44.99

MMR Street/Racing Oil Pump (highly recommended) + $179.99

ARP Headstuds and MMR 3.700 Bore Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $399.99

MMR windage tray and hardware kit (+15HP) + 129.99


You forgot the 7grand price tag! lol :uh oh:
 

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