Those that have installed a whipple crusher...

MalcolmV8

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Did your new bypass come with a new set of o-rings? I'm installing mine tonight and the instructions just say install orings. They don't say if new ones should be in the pack or if I just take the orings off the old bypass and re-use them.

So I took the orings off the old bypass but the new one is a little larger in diameter and they are stretched pretty thin looking over the new bypass. Is this normal? or should I just stop and call lethal/whipple in the morning and get some orings?

Thanks
Malcolm
 

TRBO VNM

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At this point I would wait. Call them and honestly, just ask whipple the size you need. O-rings do have standard and metric sizes.

If you have an American Hardware or True Value around you, they have o-rings in the section with all the specialty nuts and bolts and should only be a couple bucks. Then you don't have to wait for shipping.
 

Robertp

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The old prongs work just fine per mike at whipple but new ones are in big vanilla even lope found mine 3 weeks later, if u test fit it with the old ones it actually works fine

Robert
 

MalcolmV8

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I just closed it up for a test fit tonight with no silicon since I wasn't sure. I needed to get things mocked up so I could figure out how I'm routing all my fuel hoses and where the regulator is going.

Robert, I checked the envelopes and all I have besides the instructions are whipple stickers and a whipple license plate holder.

I mocked it all up tonight to see if anything else was missing and I don't have bolts to install the throttle body to the crusher inlet either. I'm guessing they just forgot to throw a few things in there.
 

MalcolmV8

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I called Whipple today about the orings and they said yes should have been some in there. They said they'll drop a couple in an envelope and I'll have them in a couple days so all good there.
 

nycarpenter

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I called Whipple today about the orings and they said yes should have been some in there. They said they'll drop a couple in an envelope and I'll have them in a couple days so all good there.

Better safe then sorry. What did your car put down last time on the dyno?
 
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MalcolmV8

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Better safe then sorry. What did your car put down last time on the dyno?

Well I just got the whipple. I ordered a whipple and didn't get the crusher because I thought it was only an inlet on the back of the blower. I then called back the next day because I found out it was more and asked to return the accufab TB and JLT intake as there is an intake and TB in the crusher kit. However I was told sorry the whipple already shipped and I have to purchase the crusher upgrade separate and paid an extra $400 than if I had just ordered the whipple crusher all in one. So not only did I pay $400 more but I have to tear apart my brand new blower and install the kit myself too lol. Live and learn I suppose.

But to answer your question last time it was on the dyno it made between 482 ~ 487 and I made one pull on spray and it was 555 hp 566 ft/lbs. Hopefully I'll be more around 600 whp mark with the whipple and crusher.
 

nycarpenter

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Well I just got the whipple. I ordered a whipple and didn't get the crusher because I thought it was only an inlet on the back of the blower. I then called back the next day because I found out it was more and asked to return the accufab TB and JLT intake as there is an intake and TB in the crusher kit. However I was told sorry the whipple already shipped and I have to purchase the crusher upgrade separate and paid an extra $400 than if I had just ordered the whipple crusher all in one. So not only did I pay $400 more but I have to tear apart my brand new blower and install the kit myself too lol. Live and learn I suppose.

But to answer your question last time it was on the dyno it made between 482 ~ 487 and I made one pull on spray and it was 555 hp 566 ft/lbs. Hopefully I'll be more around 600 whp mark with the whipple and crusher.

Even with your lower compression pistons the 600 WHP will be eclipsed by 50 or better on good fuel :)
 
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Robertp

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All I can say is the crusher rocks, I expect my mph to go up even more once I fix the dragging brake caliper the right front rotor was turning purple and smoking at the end of the track
 

Robertp

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Well it went 10.45 first time its ever been to to the track with out breaking speed was 139.5, but the right front caliper is dragging it was pouring smoke off of it, this car is full street trim 275 tires up front stock rear suspension I believe and I still had the spare tire and jack in, so no weight reduction what so ever
 

MalcolmV8

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Wow that's fast. My car is full weight too. Probably heavier than stock with the nitrous kit lol. I've cut my stock springs to lower it, not sure how that affects launching at the track. I'm not much of a drag racer, I just go out once in a while for fun.
When I had stock compression with the ported blower and a 2.76 pulley I ran 12.2 on street tires at 118 mph. Approx 486 hp at the wheels. After I lowered my compression I ran 12.6 at 116 mph (consistently, not a freak one off).
Then I put on some spray, 100 shot but very safe tune with 5 degrees timing pulled and 11.0 AFR and it ran 11.9 at 124 mph. That was approx 555 whp.
Be interesting to see how it does with the whipple now. Only bummer is Kansas City's drag strip, KCIR, closed down this year due to noise ordnance and some supposed city corruption. A huge spat about it in the news. Not sure when my car will ever see another track now.
 

MalcolmV8

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Got the correct o-rings today and they fit a lot better. Got the whipple closed up but now find I'm missing a plug that closes up a hole on the back of the crusher. Could there be any more delays??? lol dang. Guess I'll call whipple again tomorrow.

I have questions though.

For one the intake tube between the air filter throttle body has no hose provisions at all. Where does this valve cover now connect?

IMAG1072_resized.jpg


Another question. See the hose below in the pic with the red arrow pointing to it. Where do I hook it up? The back of the crusher only has small connections of 3/8" barbs. That hose is HUGE. When stock it connected to the large port on the back of the eaton.

IMAG1075_resized.jpg


These are the included hose parts. Not sure what to do with most of them. Especially those two small 90 degree items. The instructions leave a lot to the imagination.

IMAG1074_resized.jpg


I assume this barb here connects to the IAC adapter plate? It's the only barb left in the kit and the only place the threads fit.

IMAG1071_resized.jpg


More confusion on the IAC adapter. Where does the bottom connect to? In factory setups the IAC bleeds air from the tube between the air filter and the throttle body for the car to idle. The crusher has no such provisions as mentioned above. Where do I hookup this IAC air source?

IMAG1073_resized.jpg


There will be more questions but I need the above solved first to move on.

Thanks for all the help
Malcolm
 

New Edge

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The large hose you are asking about is the pcv. For me I deleted it and in a 2.2 it goes to the largest upper port. For the crusher I'm not sure but I would imagine it would be similar. For the iac, on the kb kit the hose that went to the intake tube was deleted and I would imagine would also be with the crusher. Then there was an elbow nipple that connected to the plenum that on the kb was moved to the back of the inlet.

This thread helped a lot.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/736037-kb2-2-vacuum-routing-w-o-egr-pcv.html
Since all the ports lead to the back of the blower they all see the same air and so it wouldn't really matter which port as long as there is no leaks. Hope this helped Malcolm!
 

MalcolmV8

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OK spoke to whipple and they said my passenger's side valve cover and IAC still connect to the intake tube between air filter and throttle body just like stock. Only difference is I have to make the holes in intake tube where I want and then hook them up. That's what those two 90 degree fittings included (pictured above) are for.

As for the PCV hookup (large hose in pic with red arrow) the guy I spoke to wasn't sure where it hooks up. He's going to check with some other people there and call me back. At least I'm on the right track.

Ross, what do you mean you just deleted the PCV? it's pretty important to vent your crank case. What exactly did you do?
 

New Edge

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Capped the bottom of the intake. And removed all the hoses. Then putting breathers on my valve covers.

Lol I just read again. You could avoid all of that if you just delete it. I hate the tubing so for me it's cosmetic. Egr/pcv/iac. Gone.
 
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MalcolmV8

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Capped the bottom of the intake. And removed all the hoses. Then putting breathers on my valve covers.

Risky dude. I'd never do it. As you know I'm also into the turbo hondas and granted they rev extremely high but with no real PCV system in place pulling a vacuum in the block they end up burning up the rings in the motor from extreme pressures in the block. Some get lucky and just blow out the dip stick or blow a crank main seal.

Are you sure these these motors can handle it? Even if they can with no PCV (as in the intake sucking air through your block) you have stagnant air in the block. From what I've read (google it) there's all kinds of nasties in the block from piston blow by that needs to get out of there. Been a long time since I've read up on it but I believe corrosive acids form eventually without the intake sucking in the blow by and getting rid of it.

Breathers on the valve covers are fine as long as your tuner has tuned the car that way because un metered air will be entering the system but don't cap the lower intake pcv.
 

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