Throw out bearing choices

quick01snake

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I did some searching and it seems the consensus for TOB that won't end up squeaking is the FRPP one.

Question is, has anyone had any luck with any store bought ones? I picked one up from both car quest and napa, and the ones from a couple other stores looked similar. Both are all metal and seem fairly stout. The napa one does have a larger face where it contacts the clutch fingers but I'm not sure that really matters.

I just want to get one that won't squeal, and I'm trying to determine if I should just return these other two and get the FRPP, or perhaps that one of these might work ok. The FRPP is like $60, the others about $30.
 

98_Undertaker

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FRPP, I went through a couple different ones in just a few thousand miles before I wised up and just got the FRPP one.
 

01yellercobra

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I had good luck with Timken. But currently there's a Motorcraft bearing in there.

Have you tried looking for the Motorcraft brand? It's probably the same as the FRPP, but cheaper.
 

quick01snake

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Looks like the best price online for the FR one is $52. I'm trying to find the old thread with the Ford pn so I can search it.
 

3B99SVT

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I had good luck with Timken. But currently there's a Motorcraft bearing in there.

Have you tried looking for the Motorcraft brand? It's probably the same as the FRPP, but cheaper.

When I was looking for clutch parts I called Ford about the Motorcraft TOB and FRPP TOB. I was told that they're the same bearing and, oddly, the Motorcraft version has a short-period warrantee while the FRPP doesn't have one at all.
 

zPipes

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Check the market section I've often seen them for 35 or 45 there, post a wtb, there is usually someone with an extra layin around from an install that never happened or a change in plans lol.

I agree FRPP. I used one that came with a kit once, crap, used a centerforce one, not bad but ended up with squeak just took a little longer.
 

quick01snake

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the one from the dealer is the same as the FRPP (i put the p/n above). I just asked the dealer for a price and they quoted me 37.
 

quick01snake

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Got some pics. The FR and MC parts look dimensionally and functionally identical. I would to say they are not IDENTICAL, as the surface appearance/texture and some of the machining marks are visibly different. They are probably the Same "spec" part built by two different suppliers. I'll be sending the FRPP one back as it is more expensive and I had ordered it prior to realizing the MC one was the same and cheaper.

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P49Y-CY

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just my .02 -I have been dd'ing mustangs for about 15 years, and do all my own work. imo it is really a hit or miss type deal. I have had expensive ones fail quickly, and have had the cheap ones last a long time, and vice-versa. I think a lot has to do with your cable adjustment.

but all I ever buy anymore are the cheapest $14 ones that auto zone or o'reilly have in stock. for me they last as long (or as short) as any others. I think it is 161014 or something like that.
 

006

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BCA makes most of the bearings you'll find in stores including Ford/FRPP

The reason I like the Timken bearings is they are perfectly balanced and do not oscillate or wobble when you spin/rotate the front part while you hold the rear part that clips into the fork. Another reason is the housing stays cooler than the steel housed bearings. since heat build up causes them to dry out sooner.

The BCA ones are also available at your local oreilly and other stores:

National 614014 - Ball Bearing | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Should your TOB begin to squeak, the BCA and Timken TOBs can be re-greased by applying additional grease to the input shaft's sleeve. The opening at the front of the TOB will "suck up" the grease on the sleeve. See below pics for reference.

First harbor freight mini grease gun

3 Oz. Mini Grease Gun 93486 (part #)

Hoses as shown in photos. I picked them up from a local autozone or pep boys (i think), or harbor freight might have some available.

Honda Grease as you see in that thread above OR, WHITE LITHIUM GREASE

Instructions:

Unscrew the grease gun and jam grease into the chamber. Pack the grease tight in order to remove all vacuum.
Assemble the grease gun, flexible hose and needle point. Pump grease gun until grease begins to squirt out of the needle point.
Jack up the car
Support the car on jack stands. (Multiple ones for safety)
Remove retainer screw from the clutch lever door access cover.
Remove cover and locate the TOB
Grease areas shown in the photos (Timken TOB shown). The BCA TOB (Ford OEM/FRPP HD TOB) can be seen in the photo with the measuring tape in the pic.
Careful not to get the grease at the front area of the TOB where the PP makes contact.
Repeat process in a week and repeat anytime you hear a chirp or get a vibration in the pedal.


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This is the point you want to grease on your TOB. The grease WILL get sucked into the bearings everytime you shift. Add some to the sleeve that the TOB glides back and forth on, to make sure it doesn't get scuffed up over time.
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Doing this while the transmission is bolted up to the vehicle is a royal bitch, BUT you can get the grease onto the sleeve where it will get pulled in when the fork moves the tob back and forth.

Grease I recommend:

Honda Super tigh temp grease. Part # 08798-9002 $12-13 retail.

Genuine Honda Super Hi Temp Grease | eBay
 
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