Throw out bearing shim: Is it needed

[jn2]

So I made a post about this on ACMR, I had a Exedy Mach 500(grooved) installed along with their lightweight steel flywheel. The stock clutch did not have any issues when we pulled it out, the car ran great, clutch didnt slip, chatter, whine, or anything, it was all around solid. The only reason I swapped it out was as preventative measures since I am spraying a 100 shot right now and I am stepping up to a 150.

Parts installed
- Exedy mach 500 stg 3 grooved clutch
- Exedy lightened steel flywheel
- Mcleod braided clutch line

The symptoms
- With engine running it is hard to put the car into reverse and first gear when sitting still
- with engine running, clutch pedal to the floor, and trans in reverse or 1st gear the rear wheels will spin if they are off the ground(meaning the TOB is not pressing the fingers in far enough to fully disengage the clutch)


My theories behind this:
- We re-used the stock TOB(30k miles), maybe the TOB is worn out and cannot press the fingers in far enough
- The combination of Exedy flywheel and clutch(6 bolt pressure plate) the TOB not has to travel more distance due to there being more TOB to clutch clearance(which a shim would help fix)
- Or maybe the TOB just decided to take a shit before driving a single mile.

I went ahead and order a new TOB from LMR and a RAM .15"(3.8mm) spacer. Has anyone had to run a spacer on their TOB with a aftermarket clutch and flywheel? I am not referring to the spacer the 11 and early 12 MT82's use either, mine is a 2013 and doesn't use that spacer since it's the newer casing.

The trans is coming out tomorrow and am debating on just replacing the TOB and hoping it's a worn TOB, or putting the new TOB and spacer in at once just to avoid having to take trans out again in case the new TOB also can't press the fingers in enough.





Here is the TOB and spacer I got from LMR

 

[debit_free_2010]

It does sound like clutch is dragging.

The easiest way to figure out if you need a shim is to measure the finger height of both clutches, make sure the pressure plate is torqued down on the flywheel so the fingers are pulled all the way down.

If the Exedy is shorter than the stock clutch, shim up that difference. You don't want to use any more shim than need as to much will cause problems with the pressure plate over centering.

 

[jn2]

Yeah, the Exedy's fingers look like they sit lower than the stock ones. I added 1 TOB spacer(4mm) and It helped a little but not as much as I would have liked. The car is drivable, just hard to get into gear, it doesnt grind/scratch when you go into gear so thats good, but you have to put more effort than needed to actually shift into reverse and 1st from a standstill, and the rear wheels still spin when they are off the ground and the clutch is to the floor in any gear. That tells me the TOB isn't fully disengaging.

I tried to vacuum bleed the thing per Ford's instructions and it is not getting any better...There are no leaks anywhere, not losing brake fluid during the bleed, the level doesnt go down in the reservoir. There was no brake fluid when we dropped the trans. Dropped the trans twice yesterday, once to replace the TOB, and once more to add the spacer. I am at a loss, I'm going to just finish the clutch break in and see if it gets better. I figure as the clutch disc and plate wear they the plate fingers will extend out some more and hopefully let me fully disengage

 

[Andrew Freeman]

Hey jn2-
My name is Andrew and am new to the form. I'm having the exact issues you are. I have a 2011 ft and had dealer instal the Mach 500 and exedy lightweight flywheel.
I can't get the car into reverse from a dead stop and very difficult for me to get it into 1st from a standstill, driving it shifts fine but still engages super close to the floor.

Did you ever get a complete fix for Your clutch issue?
Did the ram throughout bearing shim help?
Thanks