GRRRR... does anyone know how involved it is to change it... apparently mine is.... thrown out :cuss: I think I have to pull the ENTIRE FREAKING tranny!!! Has anyone done this... about how long will it take me?
Throwout Bearing!!!
- Thread starter 95CobraChick
- Start date
Everyone I've done, you had to pull the tranny. May as well replace the clutch while it's out also.
What happen to make ya think its thrown out? And yes you have to pull the tranny.. depending on your mechanical skills it will take a few hours for an average joe.
Bad thing about it is ... the exhaust pipes on mine had to come down. The first flange after the exhaust manifold may let you drop them far enough.
4 jack stands would be nice, so you don't have to re-jack after the drive shaft is disconnected from the differential (one jacking operation, instead of three)
Exhaust, drive shaft, small transmission jack would help to lower & raise the trans (very heavy & hard to maneuver), remove clutch & P/P, remove fork & T/O bearing and pilot bearing (shifter handle & boot may have to be removed).
Going back in, you need a pilot bearing alignment tool, new pilot bearing and T/O bearing, and reinstall old parts. Good time to replace anything you can afford: clutch fork, P/P & clutch, rear (tail) seal on trans, trans cross-member mounts.
Having experience, the right tools, and ALL the parts ... I'd say about 5 hours. Otherwise, I'd leave most of the weekend open. jmo
Dan
4 jack stands would be nice, so you don't have to re-jack after the drive shaft is disconnected from the differential (one jacking operation, instead of three)
Exhaust, drive shaft, small transmission jack would help to lower & raise the trans (very heavy & hard to maneuver), remove clutch & P/P, remove fork & T/O bearing and pilot bearing (shifter handle & boot may have to be removed).
Going back in, you need a pilot bearing alignment tool, new pilot bearing and T/O bearing, and reinstall old parts. Good time to replace anything you can afford: clutch fork, P/P & clutch, rear (tail) seal on trans, trans cross-member mounts.
Having experience, the right tools, and ALL the parts ... I'd say about 5 hours. Otherwise, I'd leave most of the weekend open. jmo
Dan
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Yeap, mine used to chirp whenever the clutch was let out...it sucked. I got a new clutch put in now and it doesn't make a sound. I know the feeling, if you have the money might as well put in a clutch, fork...etc, just like Dano said. Good luck!
At idle it makes this almost squeaking sound... that's the first sign I have always been told... I was just kinda wondering how long it was gonna take me to do... I gues I know what I am doing ALL Weekend next weekend!!!!!!!
Dano,
did you have full exhaust on yours? Mine is stock except for the cat-back... j/w if I am gonna have to pull that off too!
Yes, I have full exhaust, with cat converters. The idea is to get enough clearance to get at the trans and be able to lower it ALL the way down, without stopping, to fool with the exhaust sys. The rear hangars will probably have to be disconnected, so if they're welded onto the pipes (like my new ones are), there may be a problem. You can't hardly lower the front end only ... the tailpipes will bottom out on the bumper cover!
I'd suggest that before you start on the job, get the car up (lift, or jack stands on one end) and look at the connections on your exhaust, and see exactly what's going to have to be disconnected - then there won't be any surprises. All that matters is that you are able to lower the trans straight down, and out from under the car. The maint manual may or may not call for removing the shifter. If it doesn't, the car will have to be set pretty high, to have clearance underneath, to maneuver the trans out from under the car.
The entire job really isn't a piece of cake - there can be complications; frozen bolts, nuts, etc. One post on here a while back told of an owner that could not break the nuts/bolts loose on the drive shaft connection. That cost him a lot of time! Working on the clutch & trans aren't the problem ... getting to them is the only possible problem I see. jmo
Do you plan on doing this outside, or in a garage?
Dan
I'd suggest that before you start on the job, get the car up (lift, or jack stands on one end) and look at the connections on your exhaust, and see exactly what's going to have to be disconnected - then there won't be any surprises. All that matters is that you are able to lower the trans straight down, and out from under the car. The maint manual may or may not call for removing the shifter. If it doesn't, the car will have to be set pretty high, to have clearance underneath, to maneuver the trans out from under the car.
The entire job really isn't a piece of cake - there can be complications; frozen bolts, nuts, etc. One post on here a while back told of an owner that could not break the nuts/bolts loose on the drive shaft connection. That cost him a lot of time! Working on the clutch & trans aren't the problem ... getting to them is the only possible problem I see. jmo
Do you plan on doing this outside, or in a garage?
Dan
You know what really sucks... you could be like me and change your clutch/pp/tob and not 1900 miles later have the throw out bearing start chirping. I get to do it all over... just for the throw out bearing :bored:
I'm really looking forward to it...
I'm really looking forward to it...
Did you have to remove your whole exhaust sys, from forward flange all the way bacK?
I know you have a 4-V, but just wondering ...
Dan
I know you have a 4-V, but just wondering ...
Dan
WELL... if all goes as planned I will be able to do it in the shop! And I am afraid that you are right about the frozen nuts and bolts... this tranny is 9 years old and NEVER been worked on... the clutch has only been replace like 1 or 2 times I beleive.
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Trans hardware won't be a problem, just the exhaust & drive shaft hardware. jmo
Just the x-pipe.
Everything that had to come off was the x-pipe, driveshaft obviously, shifter, and starter. Was not a lot of fun...
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