Tie rod ends for 15x10 rims

[MalcolmV8]

Sorry if this beat to death in here but the search is rejecting all my terms, tie rod ends, 15x10s etc. pretty much every word I put in it says is a commonly used word and is left out of the search criteria

So anyways I'm wanting to fit some 15x10 race star rims on my car. I picked up the longer stainless steel MM brake lines with the low profile banjo bolts and installed them. I already have low profile IRS bolts.

I still need to grind the spindles and the tie rod ends or drag links I think they're called in the rear. However a local guy did something similar recently and had to grind the drag links down so much he went into the center part where the zerk grease fitting is. That makes me worried about structural integrity. Last thing I need is one of those drag links flying apart under WOT.

So I found these that appear to be low profile
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/IRS-Adjustable-Complete-Tie-Rod-Kit-1999-04-Cobra-P1140.aspx

Is that what I need? Then all I have to do is grind the spindle and possible roll my fenders.

I was originally getting 15x10 with 6.5" back spacing but the local Race Star shop talked me into 15x10 with 6.25" back spacing and said it was better for the IRS and if I didn't like the fit so much they would at no charge machine down the center hub of the rim to 6.5" backspacing so I have nothing to loose.
What's the biggest tire I can fit on there? I'll start with a Mickey Thompson drag radial.

Thanks
Malcolm

 

[04cobra88]

You'll need those tie rods or ftb whichever u prefer I also recommend mm stainless break lines they have the low profile bolt I still had to shave a bit off mine for the 15x10 6.5 bs weld rts ..

And of course your irs knuckle will need to be shaved down

 

[MalcolmV8]

You'll need those tie rods or ftb whichever u prefer I also recommend mm stainless break lines they have the low profile bolt I still had to shave a bit off mine for the 15x10 6.5 bs weld rts ..

And of course your irs knuckle will need to be shaved down

OK cool, already have the mm stainless brake lines installed. I'll look at the ftb drag links too and make a decision. What's your opinion on 6.25 vs 6.5" back spacing? How do you like the fit? What size tires are you running?

 

[1wild-horse]

Check out Out Pace for toe links. They have greaseable hiem ends so they dramatically decrease wear and a bonus is the grease will take up the little bit of up and down play and keep them quiet. Did this a few years ago and bought a 19" tube with some moly ends and they rattled like hell. I next bought Teflon lined hiem ends. They stopped the rattle at first but after a season of drag racing they wore out the Teflon. You can buy the stud to put in the knuckle, a few steel bushings and I rounded it out with a grade 8 bolt and nylock nut for fastening the inside of the link. Was cheaper than the mm kit I believe too.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Thanks for the info. I wish they just made a kit. I already ordered the MM setup so I guess I'll put it in and go but if I get rattles or issues I'll take the time to piece together those parts and see what I can come up with.

 

[Arrickh]

I just did the stainless lines and bolts. I still had to grind the bolts some and I just ground my tie rod ends a hair seems fine to me. The main thing is that dang knuckle took me all day to get my wheels on. I actually had to grind my calipers a little too, but I got everything on eventually.

 

[04cobra88]

When I had my irs the 6.5 bs sat pretty well if I knew how to post pics on here I'd show u , 28x10.5 mickey et streets and I had h and r race Springs all around with one lower iso on all 4 corners they also needed to shave my irs bolts down I did not have the low profile mm ones either . My fenders were rolled and I was cutting it close but they are big slicks .

if your car isvery low I would say u may run into rubbing issues with the 6.25 if you run a 28x10.5 slick it'd be to close to judge until you tried it ..15x9.25 weld rts with the 5.5 or so BS fit the best with least grinding from my research

Riddick use to run them on his redfire maybe send him a pm

 

[1wild-horse]

There is an active thread talking about back space right now. I had a set of 15x10 Billet specialties wheels, b.s. was 6.5" and I put a 3/4" spacer behind it. So it appears that a wheel with 5.75" b.s. would be perfect. Fit a 27x11.5 Hoosier qtp under it with no troubles.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Well I got everything clearance'd yesterday. Surprised how much had to come off the spindle.

Spindle as it sat.

Here's how it ended up and I didn't take off more than I needed. This is still a tight fit.

I was actually able to take down enough off the tie rod ends to be OK. I may end up just sending the MM tied rod / drag links back for now and see how these hold out.

Even though I have the MM low profile banjo bolt and stainless steel braided brake line setup I still clearance'd the banjo bolt and the bleeder nipple as they were still so close. Any flexing or movement under hard driving I could see scrapping. I really don't know how much deflection you get or room for error but a touch of clearancing now seemed better than waiting till there are grooves all over the rims and then doing it anyways.

Rims fit. Time to throw some tire on and see how it all fits as a package

 

[Rambro]

I'm planning on doing some cheap jegs sports stars 15x4 and 15x8 with 4.5 backspace. I chose the 8 inch wheel because from what I've read they require the least amount of grinding. I have 16 inch ponys but there's so many more tire options with 15's and I've never heard of a failure with ground down tie rods. In for the results and just how much breathing room you have under acceleration.

 

[1wild-horse]

Yep. Looks familiar. What tire you thinking of going with? Might as well put a street slick like a qtp instead of the drag radial, unless this is going to be the wheel combo you use regularly and not just to race with.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I'm planning on doing some cheap jegs sports stars 15x4 and 15x8 with 4.5 backspace. I chose the 8 inch wheel because from what I've read they require the least amount of grinding. I have 16 inch ponys but there's so many more tire options with 15's and I've never heard of a failure with ground down tie rods. In for the results and just how much breathing room you have under acceleration.

I'm not sure I really see what you save with 15x8 except not needing a longer brake line. My buddy put 15x8 on his and there's no difference in what you have to grind. The rim still passes over the spindle all the same. Mine just extends past the spindle more than his but his still passes over the spindle all the same so you have to do the same amount of grinding.

Yep. Looks familiar. What tire you thinking of going with? Might as well put a street slick like a qtp instead of the drag radial, unless this is going to be the wheel combo you use regularly and not just to race with.

I'll probably run it on the street all the time unless my 315/35/17 Mickey Thompsons magically hook now with the TVS. I'm not holding my breath though lol. Probably going to throw some 295/55/15 SS compound Mickey Thompsons on there. Seems to be what's replaced the ET Street 2 drag radial. I think that should be a good tire fitment wise to see how things hold up.

 

[04cobra88]

Good thinking on the bleeder I forgot to mention that, it scraped the inside of my rts when I had the irs still ! , going to look good Malcolm, ditching the 2.9 to see if u stop blowing lower pullies?

 

[Rambro]

I see what you're saying. Maybe it's with the 8 inch rim you don't have to mess with the banjo bolt and brake lines but I'm not sure. And that might be the case with the rts 15x8's only, but at 300$ a wheel the rts are out of the equation for me.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Good thinking on the bleeder I forgot to mention that, it scraped the inside of my rts when I had the irs still ! , going to look good Malcolm, ditching the 2.9 to see if u stop blowing lower pullies?

Yeah ditched the 2.9. Plan is to do a TT later but for now I already spec'd and degreed the custom cams for a blower car and I'd like to drive it a bit and enjoy that way. Breaking lower pulley's left and right and dealing with the extreme heat and IAT2s of spinning that 2.9 so hard just got old. Stepping down to a TVS to hopefully make the car "reliable" and just enjoy it for a while. The 2.9 was breaking lowers about 400 miles.

I see what you're saying. Maybe it's with the 8 inch rim you don't have to mess with the banjo bolt and brake lines but I'm not sure. And that might be the case with the rts 15x8's only, but at 300$ a wheel the rts are out of the equation for me.

Yes my 10" wide just barely over laps the bleeder nipple and banjo bolt. If you have an 8" wide you won't have to touch those two or the back of the parking brake cable. More on that in a sec.
The spindle and drag link will need to get ground all the same for both 8 and 10" wide.

Update:

So it occurred to me I better check these wheels are not out of round or have any differences when things are so tight. So I swapped rims left and right and got same results, good. Then I figured I better have my son turn them over while I'm on the inside back watching with flash light. So he released the parking brake cable and whooo it just barely touches. I mean ever so slightly. The big bulky lump on the end of the cable is touching. Turning by hand I could hear the slight rubbing sound. That would have scored the rim ever so lightly when driven. So pulled the wheels and shaved those just a touch, not much was needed. I haven't seen anyone mention that one before, glad we caught it. It's right at the end of the rim so that would be avoided with an 8" wide.

 

[1wild-horse]

Not every wheel is manufactured the same thats for sure. My drag lites were 10" wide and I didnt have trouble with the p.b. cable. Reading through other threads when I went through this it was evident that each wheel used, guys were having little differences.
Its a real bitch but in the end the traction is worth it!

 

[MalcolmV8]

Yeah true every wheel is going to be a bit different.