Timing Chains done, now car cuts off and back on at 4000rpm

gonebrokeracing

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2001 Bullitt Mustang 4.6L 2v

Just did a timing set last night, passenger upper guide in 4 pieces and the lower wore threw on both ends. All new ford parts !
Everything lined up dots and dark links and the cams didn't move so i believe everything is lined up
I checked all the sensors i disconnected and vacuum lines and i never disconnected the battery. The only problem i noticed was my number 1 coil is cracked right at the connector which i'll replace tonight.
It idles completely quiet to the point all I hear is the injectors cycling.
Apon first drive last night it was very smooth, definitely picked up power.
Pulled to a dead stop and stomped it, then everything shut off. almost like i cycled the key off then back on. Radio and all shut off, gauges cycled full sweep then it was back to normal and running fine.
This morning I tried slowly bringing the rpm's up in 1st and 2nd gear and right at 4000Rpm's exactly it did it again both times
I ran a KOEO and KOER test with my scanner and there were no codes.

Any idea ??? I'm lost lol
 
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Rolltide1006

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I'm starting to think that more now. If the engine missed or ran funny I would thing otherwise but it runs good

Ya if something was wrong timing wise it wouldn’t run at all or just poorly, but with your symptoms it sounds like a ground is loose. Especially since it cuts out under load at 4k


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gonebrokeracing

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Ya if something was wrong timing wise it wouldn’t run at all or just poorly, but with your symptoms it sounds like a ground is loose. Especially since it cuts out under load at 4k
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I haven't tried revving the engine in neutral yet to see what happens
I did just do a charging system test loads off 14.5v loads on 13.75v and 12.8v with the car off
 

gonebrokeracing

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ok this morning I pulled the battery and tested it. Tester said to replace it, I swapped in a new battery and put new terminals on then took it out for a run. It didn't cure the problem but made it better.
Now at 4000 rpms the engine doesn't cut off, but the Battery light flashes on for a second and the ABS light too.
Radio still goes off and comes right back on.
It acts like belt slip. but I don't hear any belt squeal and I put a new belt while everything was apart.
I think my next step is changing out the belt tensioner. To see if it was belt slip
 

Rolltide1006

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ok this morning I pulled the battery and tested it. Tester said to replace it, I swapped in a new battery and put new terminals on then took it out for a run. It didn't cure the problem but made it better.
Now at 4000 rpms the engine doesn't cut off, but the Battery light flashes on for a second and the ABS light too.
Radio still goes off and comes right back on.
It acts like belt slip. but I don't hear any belt squeal and I put a new belt while everything was apart.
I think my next step is changing out the belt tensioner. To see if it was belt slip

Alternator wire is tight on the alternator?


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gonebrokeracing

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I never took the alternator off or disconnected it
but I'm making the problem better lol. The Belt tensioner was bad very loose..
Now the radio doesn't shut off all the time about 4000 rpms but the battery light and abs still doing the same.
Luckily I have a spare alternator to throw on there to test. I'll do that later after i get off work.
 

gonebrokeracing

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Makes sense. Not producing enough juice at higher rpm to supply the electronics. Good deal! Now enjoy the new quiet timing components
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Oh ya!! She's quite now lol. Only thing I hear is the injectors cycling lol, and wow what a difference in power it pulls strong and smooth
 

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