Was just wondering what you may have done to make it a little easier?:idea:
Tips on changing spark plugs!
- Thread starter Chris_96cobra
- Start date
The air inlet plumbing is in the way on the passenger side, gotta take that off to get under it. You could remove the STB to get some clearance maybe, I never did though. It is real easy on the DOHC cars to change plugs. Especially the 96-98 versions that lack the coil on plug design.
That is what I was going to do! Just thought maybe there was an even easier way, I think I will remove the STB, I mean its only got what 7 bolts, I think it would be alot easier with it out of the way!
I think I only took off the air inlet tube. Then with the covers off it went real easy, I also put antiseize on the threads. It really was pretty simple, just took a long extention for the socket though.:rolling:
Wow that's right! Anti-seize is a must for aluminum heads. Good catch.
Anti-seize, Whats that? Wher can I get some?
I got mine at the place I work. The machinists/machine repair guys help me out on that,any type of the "Locktites" that are produced etc. The only "trick" that I found that saves me time other than those mentioned is to get about a 12'' section of 3/8" hydraulic(sp?) hose. I use the extension on my socket to get them out but when putting them in I take the plug(gapped @.032),wedge it into the hose, then stick it into the opening. I hand tighten it 1st, then give it a little bit of "torque" with the socket. (I always seem to lose the POS gromment out of the socket - down on the installed plug).I can usually do a change under 10-15 min if I have everything ready to go. I think these plugs are easier to change than my old 5 liter cars.
Couple of tips.
1. After putting the anti-seize on the plug thread, use the long extension with the socket, and guide the plug in without the ratchet. You want to start the plug using the 'feel' of your hand. It's so easy to cross-thread those aluminum heads.
2. Not real important but annoying....when taking the acorn nuts off the black plastic cover, simply loosen them and then take them off by hand. If not, you're liable to lose a few by dropping them and for some ungodly reason, they never hit the floor. Then they've become a permanent fixture of the body.
1. After putting the anti-seize on the plug thread, use the long extension with the socket, and guide the plug in without the ratchet. You want to start the plug using the 'feel' of your hand. It's so easy to cross-thread those aluminum heads.
2. Not real important but annoying....when taking the acorn nuts off the black plastic cover, simply loosen them and then take them off by hand. If not, you're liable to lose a few by dropping them and for some ungodly reason, they never hit the floor. Then they've become a permanent fixture of the body.
Thanks guys!
NGK's were my choice. TR-6's Part#2238 to be exact. Gap them at around .035 for SC'd applications and the stock .052 for naturaly aspirated applications.
Originally posted by cobrachic
What kind (brand) of plugs are you using? I would like to change them to ones that are more toward the performance end, but have no clue as to which ones to go with!!
AWSF-22C (FORD MOTORCRAFT) -GAPPED AT .032-.035. THIS IS FOR A S/C SETUP...
Thanks GR8WHITE, but I couln not locate any tr 6's, the only ngk plug I could find was a tr-55gp part#3403, were do you suggest that I look, and what plug wires do you suggest also?
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NAPA will have them or get them. FRPP wires are a solid choice I think.
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