Tired of pushing the TC button?

[jumpinjackflash]

Here's a picture of the connections and how to install the thing;

Remove the shifter bezel as if you were installing a Tri-Ax or Pro 5.0.
Pull the bottom of the upper bezel forward until the bottom two spring clamps release.
Put your fingers behind the TC button and push it out the front.
Push in the tang that secures the plug to the button with a small screwdriver and unplug the button.
Feed the plug back through the hole and bring it out underneath the bezel.
Push back the sleeving and install the clamp-on splice connectors to the black wire, the grey wire, and one of the the pink wires with the black stripe.
Plug the connectors from the board into the wires as shown on the schematic.
Secure the circuit board somewhere in the cavity underneath the cd changer and put everything back like you found it.

Happy Burnouts!

 

[T3 Cobra]

I have them for sale $49.99 shipped to anywhere in the lower 48.
There are now 12 in use and working perfect.
Click below for the thread and the website

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20086

 

[jumpinjackflash]

If anyone wants to make this themselves, print a copy of the schematic and the picture of the circuit board and go to RadioShack. Ask for

Relay - RadioShack Cat.#: 275-248 - $3.99 each
Timer - RadioShack Cat.#: 276-1723 - $1.29 each

And the resistors and capacitors shown in the schematic, an ordinary diode, a small prototyping board, some wire and the connectors.

I used a slightly different timer chip so you will need to look at the schematic for the LM555 and match up to the labels in my schematic.

It's easy and it works great.

Have fun!

 

[kom]

Well done.. Short and sweet. I'll be making one of these tomorrow or Wednesday. Maybe its I'll get carried away and etch a circuit board too.
I never thought the TC button thing was such a big deal until I had a very near miss going through an intersection and the TC kicked in and the car started bucking ........fast-die-fast-die-fast.

 

[T3 Cobra]

Originally posted by T3 Cobra
I have them for sale $49.99 shipped to anywhere in the lower 48.
There are now 12 in use and working perfect.
Click below for the thread and the website

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20086

Btw the schematic you have shows your circuit needing power all the time to save the last setting. My bypass does not it saves without power all the time.

Nice design though if I do say so myself!!
:thumbsup:

 

[jumpinjackflash]

Originally posted by T3 Cobra
Btw the schematic you have shows your circuit needing power all the time to save the last setting. My bypass does not it saves without power all the time.

Nice design though if I do say so myself!!
:thumbsup:

You're right, my circuit just turns it off all the time. I did have to remember today several times to turn it on since it was raining pretty hard.

If anyone wants the memory feature, the Black Box II looks like a great way to go.

 

[bender460]

Well I went to Radio Shack and picked up some stuff. I have everything right but the caps. They only have even numberd ones. What can I swap to still make it work? I hate to experiment. Any help would be great.

 

[jumpinjackflash]

Originally posted by bender460
Well I went to Radio Shack and picked up some stuff. I have everything right but the caps. They only have even numberd ones. What can I swap to still make it work? I hate to experiment. Any help would be great.

The resistors and capacitors set the length of time that the circuit operates. Larger values will make it stay on longer. Smaller values might not make it stay on long enough to get past the computer's start-up test mode.

Bottom line is, anything close will work as longer as they are bigger numbers. Buy 1uF and 2uF caps and you'll be fine. The small cap (0.015uF) is a filter and anything close will work.

 

[Morgan]

ATTN: naysayers

That diagram is awesome. Thank you for posting your reaserch and results here to help all of us. Also, thank you for not pushing the "uhh, I can sell one just like it to you for 400% of what it costs to produce it" crap on us. Yeah yeah before all you economists chime in, yes, I do understand the theory behind capitalsim and a free marketplace, so save your keystrokes for someone else.

And for you all who commented that an individual should not attepmt this themselves without having knowledge of the functioning theory behind this, and may want to take up some college courses; consider this: Go buy a CORVETTE and be as much of a Di$K as you'd like, you don't deserve an '03. This board is here to facilitate knowledge and learning-

 

[gchronis]

Hey jumpingjackflash, you rock man! Good job! :thumbsup: Thanks for sharing. I'll work on the memory feature. A EEPROM would definitely do it, but for something as simple as holding one bit, I'll come up with something else. I'll send it to my lab guys today.

thanks again, g.

 

[coleman]

if power is around 24x7, you wouldn't need non-volatile memory... assuming you don't create something that draws a bunch of current when the car is off...

 

[gchronis]

Your right. I just don't feel good about drawing current all the time. The current for this particular circuit is insignificant compared to say the theft thing, and it sure won't drain your battery to the point where you can't start the car, but stil...

 

[Dahubbster]

Good job jumpin......After 19 years working on "trons" for our Uncle...Sam that is it's great to know there are a few of us "geeks" a.k.a. "twidgets" left in the world. Looks like you may have found a way to make the "cobra" payments.......Put em together and sell em to the rest of the uneducated....no offense to the uneducated fellows......I didn't build the subway but I sure will ride on it!!
Peace....

 

[A's Cobra]

thanks sir, yet another great do it yourself post, much appreciated.

 

[FlashSVT]

Thanks again JJF!

 

[coleman]

jumpingjackflash, do you have a parts list of everything one would buy and where?
www.jameco.com looks like it might be a site that could have everything -- just guessing, i don't really know.

but, it would be AWESOME if someone *hint, hint* could list all the parts w/ part#s from an inexpensive electronics site so we all don't run off the Radio Shack and get taken advantage of

i mean, geez, there are sooo many 555 and 556 timer chips and i have NO idea what the subtle differences are. -- not to mention relays!

http://www.jameco.com

would "IC, XRL555" part# 34930 suffice for the timer?
https://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncom...1&prrfnbr=1312&cgrfnbr=722&ctgys=503;523;722;

 

[jumpinjackflash]

Originally posted by coleman
jumpingjackflash, do you have a parts list of everything one would buy and where?
www.jameco.com looks like it might be a site that could have everything -- just guessing, i don't really know.

but, it would be AWESOME if someone *hint, hint* could list all the parts w/ part#s from an inexpensive electronics site so we all don't run off the Radio Shack and get taken advantage of

i mean, geez, there are sooo many 555 and 556 timer chips and i have NO idea what the subtle differences are. -- not to mention relays!

http://www.jameco.com

would "IC, XRL555" part# 34930 suffice for the timer?
https://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncom...1&prrfnbr=1312&cgrfnbr=722&ctgys=503;523;722;

Here's some Jameco part numbers:

relay: 172937 - $1.15
timer: 27422 - $0.29
diode: 35975 - $0.30 (Pack of 10)
resistors: 29698 - $0.99 (bag of 100)
capacitor (0.01uF): 26884 - $0.10 (pack of 10)
capacitors (1uF): 27001 - $0.59
capacitor (2.2uF): 93999 - $0.75
circuit board: 105099 - $4.95
enclosure: 18921 - $2.69

Just put two resistors in series (like train cars) for the 2.4 MOhm and just use one for the 1.2 MOhm. The enclosure is not really needed but it will make it look nice. You should be able to find the wire and connectors just about anywhere. I hope this helps!

 

[kom]

Thanks again... I just placed my order.

 

[coleman]

how would one test the curcuit w/ a LED as you did and mentioned before installing it? ... or is that more trouble than it's worth?

 

[jumpinjackflash]

The easiest way to test the circuit would be with a volt meter. Put the meter across the output and ground and apply power. The output should be around 12V for about 5 seconds and then drop off.

I only mentioned the LED because you can see it in the picture. It would be more trouble than it's worth to put it in for testing.