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SVT Shelby GT500
TR6060 Reverse, 5th gear and 6th gear lock out
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<blockquote data-quote="Robert M" data-source="post: 16290993" data-attributes="member: 9628"><p>If fluid has been added over time, like as the pads wear, the fluid that is easily seen will look good, but down in the bottom is where the sediment is. I would completely flush the system starting at the right rear, keep fresh new fluid in the reservoir as the old fluid is being pushed out through the caliper bleeder(s). <<<This will get new fluid from the master cylinder, through the ABS module and to the farthest point (right rear), then do the much quicker left rear caliper until the fluid is new/clean and then continue with the right side. It is not a big deal to do it the old fashioned way, my wife was in the drivers seat and I was at the caliper and also checking the M/C often and keeping full.</p><p></p><p>I think DOT 4 is the oem recommend? I believe I used DOT 5.5 (I'm pretty sure) in mine which is a higher temp............AND NOT DOT 5 which is silicone and not recommended for ABS systems.</p><p></p><p>As for the clutch system, there is no bleeder in the oem system, however McLeod does make a bleeder that will allow the clutch system to be bled to the bell housing, which will get clean/new fluid in and through the clutch master.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1599889[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Some guys like the fully flexible clutch line, I like the FRPP pre-curved line with flex end as shown below. That line and the McLeod bleeder added to the GT500 clutch hyd. system will allow bleeding to the bell housing. My thought is, to start with the system would be bled like a brake system, push down the pedal, open the bleeder pedal goes to the floor, close bleeder, let pedal up, repeat until new/fresh fluid is all you see at the bell housing. <<That will clean out the system back including the clutch master cyl. NOW, what about the TOB which is beyond this bleeder?? I believe, but am not positive that the TOB can also be "somewhat" cleaned out..........this process would be the same "push the pedal down" which would extend the TOB, but at this point the bleeder would be opened and the pressure plate would push the TOB back and fluid would come out of the bleeder. Would this fully flush the TOB and line? No, but it is better to get at least some of the clutch system flushed vs. none.</p><p></p><p>R</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Robert M, post: 16290993, member: 9628"] If fluid has been added over time, like as the pads wear, the fluid that is easily seen will look good, but down in the bottom is where the sediment is. I would completely flush the system starting at the right rear, keep fresh new fluid in the reservoir as the old fluid is being pushed out through the caliper bleeder(s). <<<This will get new fluid from the master cylinder, through the ABS module and to the farthest point (right rear), then do the much quicker left rear caliper until the fluid is new/clean and then continue with the right side. It is not a big deal to do it the old fashioned way, my wife was in the drivers seat and I was at the caliper and also checking the M/C often and keeping full. I think DOT 4 is the oem recommend? I believe I used DOT 5.5 (I'm pretty sure) in mine which is a higher temp............AND NOT DOT 5 which is silicone and not recommended for ABS systems. As for the clutch system, there is no bleeder in the oem system, however McLeod does make a bleeder that will allow the clutch system to be bled to the bell housing, which will get clean/new fluid in and through the clutch master. [ATTACH=full]1599889[/ATTACH] Some guys like the fully flexible clutch line, I like the FRPP pre-curved line with flex end as shown below. That line and the McLeod bleeder added to the GT500 clutch hyd. system will allow bleeding to the bell housing. My thought is, to start with the system would be bled like a brake system, push down the pedal, open the bleeder pedal goes to the floor, close bleeder, let pedal up, repeat until new/fresh fluid is all you see at the bell housing. <<That will clean out the system back including the clutch master cyl. NOW, what about the TOB which is beyond this bleeder?? I believe, but am not positive that the TOB can also be "somewhat" cleaned out..........this process would be the same "push the pedal down" which would extend the TOB, but at this point the bleeder would be opened and the pressure plate would push the TOB back and fluid would come out of the bleeder. Would this fully flush the TOB and line? No, but it is better to get at least some of the clutch system flushed vs. none. R [/QUOTE]
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TR6060 Reverse, 5th gear and 6th gear lock out
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