Ok so I am looking to buy an 11-12 GT500. I have searched and have read a ton of posts about the transmission problems, specifically the 1-2 shift. I however do not know how prone this really is. I know the internet blows things up, so I really just want to get an idea of how real of a problem this really is and if there is a fix. If this is a serious problem and is an expensive fix, then I will just not buy an 11-12 and will opt for a different car. Last thing I want to do is drop 35-40k on a used car and have the transmission not function properly.
Transmission 2012 GT500 (Yes I've searched)
- Thread starter tennis_pr0
- Start date
Just need an mgw shifter and all is good
I did a shifter straight stick and bushing upgrade (~$100) which made a huge difference. I rarely drag race, so I can't speak to high RPM shifts, but I rarely have an issue on the street or on a road course.
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- Sep 13, 2011
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If you are picky in the slightest bit, 11, 12 is NOT for you. Imagine buying brand new, reading the owners manual and following the break in procedure to a tee. First time a full throttle shift is tried....... GRIND. According to Ford this is normal. Then blow a hole through your bell housing with your stock clutch , get denied warranty, then drop another six to put in the Magnum xl. 11 12s are not for the average folk honestly. I still think of turboing a new 5.0 a6 and probably have just as much fun.
Some are really bad, others aren't as bad. I don't think there is one out there that doesn't have the issue though and that have actually tried to shift their car at that point. It's really not as awful as a lot of people say. You'll never be able to hold traction on the street for a full 1-2 shift. If at the track, well grab an MGW/WOT box and have at it.
Not all cars are affected by the 1-2 grind, can affect all years too. Test drive the car, and do the 2nd gear synchro test. With the car stopped, and your foot hard on the brake, lightly (8lbs of force) pull the shifter into 2nd, without the clutch. Only hold it light this for 1 second max. You shouldn't hear any grinding, or it wanting to go into gear. I've owned two used GT500s, with no issues, one was a higher mileage one.
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If you ditch the factory shifter and Install a MGW2 the issue disappears. Mine would occasionally lock out with stock shifter, not anymore.
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Sent from my XT830C using Tapatalk
Thanks. if it's that simple though, why are people taking it back to the dealer and having their transmissions replaced? Seems like most people are saying an MGW shifter doesn't fix the problem. See this is where my confusion is. I have replies like "had to have my transmission rebuilt", "I just learned to live with it", "took it to the dealer several time and they wouldn't help" "installed short throw shifter and it helped", "installed a short throw shifter and it didn't make a different", etc. There are so many varying answers on this, that i can't get a clear answer as to how bad the problem is and if there is a fix and what the fix is. I suppose I need to just drive one for myself and draw my own conclusions.
Because most people keep grinding them countless times without switching shifter. And the by the time the put a shifter in, the did the damage.
I had the grind at the track, not in everyday traffic,
After probably 4x, I never took it to track until I got a MGW, First time back to track it shifted perfect, and hasn't ground since.
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I had the grind at the track, not in everyday traffic,
After probably 4x, I never took it to track until I got a MGW, First time back to track it shifted perfect, and hasn't ground since.
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I believe this is a fact as I had just a handful of lockout grinding issues before I decided to install the shifter. All I can say is on my car with my style of shifting the problem is gone.
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Sent from my XT830C using Tapatalk
All of that just comes down to how people shift and drive. ALL of the cars have the issue. It's an unfortunate nature of the transmission itself. For those of us that can bang gear shifts like squeezing a trigger, it's always going to be there, and an MGW won't even fix it. A short throw shifter only exacerbates the problem. The MGW gen 2 shifter is praised for "fixing" the problem, but what it's actually doing is slowing down how quickly you're able to do the 1-2 shift.
What I have personally noticed (and I have an MGW gen 1) is that as long as I don't do WOT and quick shift at or near red line, the 1-2 shift is generally fine. It's the action of quick shifting at/near red line that causes the grind to happen. You can do WOT to red line and slowly/moderately shift to 2nd without issue. If you're a moderate/slow shifter, you'll probably never experience the issue.
Don't let the "failed clutch" horror stories scare you away, either. When it comes to clutches, 99.99% of the time it's driver error. A lot of people either ride their clutches or slip them too much, which can cause catastrophic failure in high RPM situations. In the case of aftermarket clutches, you pays your money, you takes your chances. Even so, a failure would be more attributed to driver/installer error than the clutch or transmission.
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The search engine here has been sucking as of late, big time. So I'm not sure what you saw or didn't. In essence, you have the fastest ratio shifter Ford ever produced for the TR6060 in the GT500 (years '10/'11/'12 are all the same - note the markings on each stub to indicate year).
Ford learned the hard way via dealer/customer feedback that this ratio was causing so many shift issues that they actually slowed things down in '13/'14 (more here). If your transmission has damaged synchros, etc, no shifter is going to magically fix everything, obviously. If your transmission is fine, I highly recommend the MGW Gen2 shifter.
Why?
Simple. It is bar none the most precise shift mechanism designed to be used for this application. It is the only one that utilizes a single axis, bolt-action, design. And most importantly, MGW slowed the rate down just as Ford did. Many think that a shifter is defined by how quick the ratio is, which is true, but not in the way many think. The faster the ratio, the "notchier" it becomes which in many cases transmits to a more difficult shift. Simply put, you want accurate and you want smooth.
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If you haven't seen it, give this thread a good look for a better understand of the latest from MGW for the GT500.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1074257-MGW-Gen2-A-Closer-Look
Ford learned the hard way via dealer/customer feedback that this ratio was causing so many shift issues that they actually slowed things down in '13/'14 (more here). If your transmission has damaged synchros, etc, no shifter is going to magically fix everything, obviously. If your transmission is fine, I highly recommend the MGW Gen2 shifter.
Why?
Simple. It is bar none the most precise shift mechanism designed to be used for this application. It is the only one that utilizes a single axis, bolt-action, design. And most importantly, MGW slowed the rate down just as Ford did. Many think that a shifter is defined by how quick the ratio is, which is true, but not in the way many think. The faster the ratio, the "notchier" it becomes which in many cases transmits to a more difficult shift. Simply put, you want accurate and you want smooth.
On edit:
If you haven't seen it, give this thread a good look for a better understand of the latest from MGW for the GT500.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1074257-MGW-Gen2-A-Closer-Look
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I never had an issue with mine fwiw.
+1 to the shifter curing the issue*.
+1 to the shifter curing the issue*.
You don't want to hold it there very long, or you can smoke the synchro. If it's bad, it will grind right away.
So basically the synchros on 1-2 shift are very close together and at higher rpm's don't have a chance to do their synchronizing job for a smooth shift. I did test drive a 2012 gt500 for about 5 minutes and noticed the throw from 1-2 is the shortest I've ever felt, so that does make sense.
Okay so other than there being a grind, is there any damage that this can cause over time. I can get over a little 102 grind, but I would think the more this happens, the more the synchronizers will keep wearing until eventually they are completely shot and you will need a new transmission. That would be a major disaster...
Okay so other than there being a grind, is there any damage that this can cause over time. I can get over a little 102 grind, but I would think the more this happens, the more the synchronizers will keep wearing until eventually they are completely shot and you will need a new transmission. That would be a major disaster...
Oh wow. I was being ocd and tested all of them a couple times for 10 seconds glad I now know not to do that. No grind or smell or any difference so guess I'm good. I always check it every 5k out of paranoia
I would never "not" buy a GT500 because of all the things you can read about the 1-2 problem.
The best advice is drive your potentially new car, and see if it shifts AS DESIGNED from the factory. If it's grinding at normal commuter speeds, or moderate acceleration, walk away. Replacing the shifter and oil helps a lot. This trans was built to take 1000+ hp and it's not a Honda transmission that you can flick shift with one finger. It's a heavy duty trans, that doesn't like fast shifts made incorrectly.
Here's the test:
Set parking brake.
Transmission in neutral.
Start engine and allow it to idle.
Clutch engaged - pedal fully released.
Attempt to shift transmission into first gear by firmly pushing shift lever approximately 5-10 lb-ft (22-45 N-m) force for 2-3 seconds.
If the synchronizers are okay, the transmission will not make any clash or grinding noise. You will not be able to move the gearshift lever into the selected gear (the synchronizer will block out gear engagement) and the engine RPM will decrease slightly.
Repeat the synchronizer test (Step 5 and 6) on all of the other forward gears.
If the transmission passes the synchronizer test, the transmission will not require additional service; proceed with clutch/flywheel replacement only. Refer to Clutch Replacement procedure.
If clash/grinding noise is found when performing the synchronizer diagnostic, the transmission will need to be repaired along with the replacement of the clutch. Refer to Transmission Repair procedure.
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Huh wow I didn't know you had to replace the clutch if the synchronizers went out. That would suck to spend 1400 plus labor to get a McLeod in then 1000 miles later your synchros die and you have to trash the clutch. Why is that?
So with this test you are not suppose ot be able to engage the gear? Also on another note, do you guys know if the 2013-15 5.0's have this problem?
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