Transmission Removal Issues

[May93]

I'm in the process of replacing my clutch in my 2007 GT500 with everything unbolted and transmission on the hydraulic jack. However the last (1) inch or less I need to get the input shaft to clear the pressure plate is not happening as the bell housing comes in contact with the firewall. I attempted to tilt the motor back with not much luck.

I'm sure I could twist and pull and eventually get it out but my concern with the cost of the new clutch is I want it to be a smooth transition going back in. If I'm fighting it coming out it will be the same in reverse. I did some research and have read where one stated they rotated the trans 180* and it helped. I'm not so sure that's the solution or if even possible.

My question is has anyone dropped the K-member a few inches for clearance and did that help? Thanks for any comments!

 

[Grey11500]

If you loosen the k-member it will come right out.

Sent from my XT1650 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[c0rn_fed]

I unbolted the motor mounts and had a jack with a 2x4 lifting in the crank pulley to tilt the motor

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[blowbye]

Tilt the motor back with a jack.

Sent from my LGLS775 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Catmonkey]

The service manual actually calls for loosening the k-member nuts, but not removing the nuts. The four rear bolts are to be removed. It also calls for jacking up the k-member from the front. Not too much, just enough to tilt the whole assembly rearward. Next step is to clock the transmission 45* clockwise. Pay close attention to the bell housing bosses and chassis clearance.

It's a PITA, but be patient and it does come out. It's tighter than anything I've ever worked on. I found going back in was easier than removal.

 

[RedVenom48]

Hmmm.... well i moddified my trans tunnel with a hammer. Thats what i get for not wanting to have to check my vehicle alignment...

OP: If you haven't decided to replace your slave/throwout bearing , do it. You only wamt that trans out once, trust me.

 

[Catmonkey]

Same goes for the pilot shaft bearing.

 

[May93]

The service manual actually calls for loosening the k-member nuts, but not removing the nuts. The four rear bolts are to be removed. It also calls for jacking up the k-member from the front. Not too much, just enough to tilt the whole assembly rearward. Next step is to clock the transmission 45* clockwise. Pay close attention to the bell housing bosses and chassis clearance.

It's a PITA, but be patient and it does come out. It's tighter than anything I've ever worked on. I found going back in was easier than removal.

That's what I had figured was the solution. Does the manual show exactly what bolts need loosened? I see the (4) in the back but not the ones that allow it to rock backwards.

 

[Catmonkey]

There are four bolts, two on each side that attach the k-frame to the body. If you look at it from the wheel well, you'll see two bolts with a nut on either side of the pocket in the k-member where the engine mount is located. One nut is forward of the axle, the other behind the axle. I'll see if I can find an internet photo.

 

[Catmonkey]

Here you go. Look at the yellow circles. The photo had an arrow blocking the front nut, but I circled the location it would be.

Put a jack under the forward pad of the k-member and jack up to the point that the rear bolt is extended, but the front bolt is slightly compressed. The more gap between the rearmost section of the k-member, where the rear bolts were removed, the better.

 

[May93]

Here you go. Look at the yellow circles. The photo had an arrow blocking the front nut, but I circled the location it would be.

View attachment 591089

Put a jack under the forward pad of the k-member and jack up to the point that the rear bolt is extended, but the front bolt is slightly compressed. The more gap between the rearmost section of the k-member, where the rear bolts were removed, the better.

Thanks for the tip. I loosened the nuts and removed the 4 rear bolts just enough to get the transmission out. Hopefully the Mcleod will give me enough clearance to get it back in a little easier. It's definitely a tight fit getting it in and out.

 

[VNMOUS1]

Tilt tail of engine down. Click bellhousing to 2 o'clock.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[BohnZachBohn]

Does anyone have an actual copy of the factory instructions for this entire process?

 

[HillbillyHotRod]

This is for an 08. Should be the same for 07-09. This is a PDF file.

 

[BohnZachBohn]

This is for an 08. Should be the same for 07-09. This is a PDF file.

Thanks!