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Tri-Ax shifter install question
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<blockquote data-quote="Goldy" data-source="post: 273139" data-attributes="member: 4323"><p>Here are a few more tips, and things to be careful of:</p><p></p><p>- Removing the old shifter can be a bit tough. First, I loosened the bolts which held the shifter in place a bit (I did not remove the bolts at this point). To break the shifter loose from the tranny, I used a set of Channel lock pliers; I placed one 'jaw' of the Channel lock pliers under the base of the shifter, and the other 'jaw' on top of the bolt I had already loosened. This made breaking the seal between the shifter and tranny very easy. </p><p></p><p>- When removing the old shifter, be very careful not to let anything drop into the tranny (through the openning where the shifter used to be). When I removed the old gasket material, I used a rag inside of the transmission opening to catch any stray gasket material peices. DO NOT BE IN A RUSH TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKET MATERIAL. If you take your time and be careful, you should be OK.</p><p></p><p>- Be sure to use a high quality silicone gasket material.</p><p></p><p>- I've got approx. 1,500 miles on the car since installing the TriAx and have not had any problems with the bolts (which hold the shifter to the tranny) coming loose. I did not use any Lock-Tite on these bolts. On the other hand, it wouldn't hurt to use some. (Might give a little more security.)</p><p></p><p>- Regarding the spacing for the stops, just follow the instructions which come with the shifter. (This is very, very easy to do.)</p><p></p><p>- I did have a problem with the bolts which hold the shifter handle to the shifter coming loose after placing rubber between the shifter handle and shifter. The TriAx is quite a bit noisier than the stock shifter, and I used the rubber to help quite things down. Definitly use the Lock-Tite on these bolts (shift handle to shifter bolts) if you do place rubber between the shift handle and shifter. And regarding the rubber, I did not have much luck with with the piece I picked up at the hardware store (noise still present). I read on website somewhere (may even have been this one) about a rubber/polymer (with a specified durometer rating) which was suggested for use between the shifter and shift handle. I ordered a 12"x12" square of this stuff (orange in color) from a place near Chicago. This rubber worked much, much better than did the rubber I previously tried; it removed 99.9% of the noise. (Perhaps someone can chime in here as where to order the rubber, as well as its durometer rating???) </p><p></p><p>From start to finish, it took me about 1.5 hours (maybe I work a lilttle slower). I'd also suggest that you do not replace the shifter when the car is hot. Let it set a while before changing the shifter.</p><p></p><p>As far as the tools go, Std. and Metric sockets, with extensions and swivel (universal joint type) adaptors as well as Std. and Metric wrenches is all you will need (in addition to the Channel Lock pliers). I do not remember the sizes right off.</p><p></p><p>That ought to be it. After I changed my shifter, I drove the car a few miles (probably 50 or so) and then changed the transmission fluid just to be on the safe side. I'm certain many would think is was not necessary, but I wanted to put synthetic fluid in there anyway (I'm not sure what came in the tranny from the factory).</p><p></p><p>Good Luck.</p><p></p><p>Howard</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Goldy, post: 273139, member: 4323"] Here are a few more tips, and things to be careful of: - Removing the old shifter can be a bit tough. First, I loosened the bolts which held the shifter in place a bit (I did not remove the bolts at this point). To break the shifter loose from the tranny, I used a set of Channel lock pliers; I placed one 'jaw' of the Channel lock pliers under the base of the shifter, and the other 'jaw' on top of the bolt I had already loosened. This made breaking the seal between the shifter and tranny very easy. - When removing the old shifter, be very careful not to let anything drop into the tranny (through the openning where the shifter used to be). When I removed the old gasket material, I used a rag inside of the transmission opening to catch any stray gasket material peices. DO NOT BE IN A RUSH TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKET MATERIAL. If you take your time and be careful, you should be OK. - Be sure to use a high quality silicone gasket material. - I've got approx. 1,500 miles on the car since installing the TriAx and have not had any problems with the bolts (which hold the shifter to the tranny) coming loose. I did not use any Lock-Tite on these bolts. On the other hand, it wouldn't hurt to use some. (Might give a little more security.) - Regarding the spacing for the stops, just follow the instructions which come with the shifter. (This is very, very easy to do.) - I did have a problem with the bolts which hold the shifter handle to the shifter coming loose after placing rubber between the shifter handle and shifter. The TriAx is quite a bit noisier than the stock shifter, and I used the rubber to help quite things down. Definitly use the Lock-Tite on these bolts (shift handle to shifter bolts) if you do place rubber between the shift handle and shifter. And regarding the rubber, I did not have much luck with with the piece I picked up at the hardware store (noise still present). I read on website somewhere (may even have been this one) about a rubber/polymer (with a specified durometer rating) which was suggested for use between the shifter and shift handle. I ordered a 12"x12" square of this stuff (orange in color) from a place near Chicago. This rubber worked much, much better than did the rubber I previously tried; it removed 99.9% of the noise. (Perhaps someone can chime in here as where to order the rubber, as well as its durometer rating???) From start to finish, it took me about 1.5 hours (maybe I work a lilttle slower). I'd also suggest that you do not replace the shifter when the car is hot. Let it set a while before changing the shifter. As far as the tools go, Std. and Metric sockets, with extensions and swivel (universal joint type) adaptors as well as Std. and Metric wrenches is all you will need (in addition to the Channel Lock pliers). I do not remember the sizes right off. That ought to be it. After I changed my shifter, I drove the car a few miles (probably 50 or so) and then changed the transmission fluid just to be on the safe side. I'm certain many would think is was not necessary, but I wanted to put synthetic fluid in there anyway (I'm not sure what came in the tranny from the factory). Good Luck. Howard [/QUOTE]
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