Tri-Ax shifter install question

[CobraBob]

I'm ordering my Tri-Ax shifter next week and plan on doing the install myself. I have a few questions concerning the install.

1. Any precautions or tips I should know?
2. Does the manufacturer recommend LocTite on the bolts? I talked to my dealer this morning and he said he's aware of cases where the bolts worked loose. I plan on following his advice but was wondering if anyone installed their shifter w/o LocTite.
3. Approximately how long did the install take?
4. I read somewhere that the shift stops should be set so that you can slip a credit card in the gap. Is this pretty much the standard recommendation?

Any input would be appreciated. I just want to be sure I do this right the first time and value your experience and input.
:burnout:

 

[Brad]

Originally posted by CobraBob
I'm ordering my Tri-Ax shifter next week and plan on doing the install myself. I have a few questions concerning the install.

1. Any precautions or tips I should know?
2. Does the manufacturer recommend LocTite on the bolts? I talked to my dealer this morning and he said he's aware of cases where the bolts worked loose. I plan on following his advice but was wondering if anyone installed their shifter w/o LocTite.
3. Approximately how long did the install take?
4. I read somewhere that the shift stops should be set so that you can slip a credit card in the gap. Is this pretty much the standard recommendation?

Any input would be appreciated. I just want to be sure I do this right the first time and value your experience and input.
:burnout:

You are from CT huh? Ill come install it for ya:-D

Its not hard, get some loctite and gasket maker. the install takes like 30 min if you know what you're doing. It comes with simple instructions too.

 

[magnum4000]

The Triax does NOT require locktite! :rollseyes

It comes with lock washers, that do the job well. The pro5, on the other hand, does NOT come with lockwashers, and the instructions don't say anything about locktite. Mine came loose while driving down the road. I had the pro5 in my 99 GT, and a triax in my 01 GT, and I went with the triax again in my 03 cobra.

I've never had a Triax work loose. The lockwashers work! :beer:

You might consider putting plumbing grade rubber washers between the bolts and the handle; it will help reduce the noise. Use both rubber boots for the same reason. Fact is, with the T-56, it's going to be noisy and shift great, or quiet and shift like crap.

Good luck! :-D

 

[GUY WAGNER]

Shifters

I just finished putting in my Kirban shifter. Start to finish, taking my time,less than an hour.I did not locktite,but I did torque the bolts to the required 15 lb/ft.I tried the short handle that came with it but it just wasn't comfortable for me,so I reinstalled the factory handle with a piece of silicone sheet in the middle.
I also installed the AR Anti Hop kit at the same time.Still have a little hop but much better. I guess the temp here(15) probably has something to do with it.
Guy

 

[CobraBob]

Thanks for the tips guys. I really appreciate it. I will definitely pick up some rubber washers! I'll report how it turns out.

 

[Bizarro]

If your Pro5.0 came lose, you didn't tighten it down enough...

I've had three pro5.0 shifters....to of which I rode out to 100K on my 82GT and 95GT...then when I put the Tremec in my 95, I installed another Pro5.0....NEVER had one work lose.... :nonono:

 

[Goldy]

Here are a few more tips, and things to be careful of:

- Removing the old shifter can be a bit tough. First, I loosened the bolts which held the shifter in place a bit (I did not remove the bolts at this point). To break the shifter loose from the tranny, I used a set of Channel lock pliers; I placed one 'jaw' of the Channel lock pliers under the base of the shifter, and the other 'jaw' on top of the bolt I had already loosened. This made breaking the seal between the shifter and tranny very easy.

- When removing the old shifter, be very careful not to let anything drop into the tranny (through the openning where the shifter used to be). When I removed the old gasket material, I used a rag inside of the transmission opening to catch any stray gasket material peices. DO NOT BE IN A RUSH TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKET MATERIAL. If you take your time and be careful, you should be OK.

- Be sure to use a high quality silicone gasket material.

- I've got approx. 1,500 miles on the car since installing the TriAx and have not had any problems with the bolts (which hold the shifter to the tranny) coming loose. I did not use any Lock-Tite on these bolts. On the other hand, it wouldn't hurt to use some. (Might give a little more security.)

- Regarding the spacing for the stops, just follow the instructions which come with the shifter. (This is very, very easy to do.)

- I did have a problem with the bolts which hold the shifter handle to the shifter coming loose after placing rubber between the shifter handle and shifter. The TriAx is quite a bit noisier than the stock shifter, and I used the rubber to help quite things down. Definitly use the Lock-Tite on these bolts (shift handle to shifter bolts) if you do place rubber between the shift handle and shifter. And regarding the rubber, I did not have much luck with with the piece I picked up at the hardware store (noise still present). I read on website somewhere (may even have been this one) about a rubber/polymer (with a specified durometer rating) which was suggested for use between the shifter and shift handle. I ordered a 12"x12" square of this stuff (orange in color) from a place near Chicago. This rubber worked much, much better than did the rubber I previously tried; it removed 99.9% of the noise. (Perhaps someone can chime in here as where to order the rubber, as well as its durometer rating???)

From start to finish, it took me about 1.5 hours (maybe I work a lilttle slower). I'd also suggest that you do not replace the shifter when the car is hot. Let it set a while before changing the shifter.

As far as the tools go, Std. and Metric sockets, with extensions and swivel (universal joint type) adaptors as well as Std. and Metric wrenches is all you will need (in addition to the Channel Lock pliers). I do not remember the sizes right off.

That ought to be it. After I changed my shifter, I drove the car a few miles (probably 50 or so) and then changed the transmission fluid just to be on the safe side. I'm certain many would think is was not necessary, but I wanted to put synthetic fluid in there anyway (I'm not sure what came in the tranny from the factory).

Good Luck.

Howard

 

[CobraBob]

Howard, many thanks for the detailed post. It will definitely help me out. Thanks again!

This may be a silly question, but why exactly is the stock shifter much quieter than the aftermarket billet shifters like the Pro 5 and Tri-Ax?

 

[DRIVINGLESSON]

It took about 20 minutes for me to install, the directions were very easy. Just follow the directions concerning the stops.
A few things to input on the shifter. The stock one has rubber in the bracket that mounts the shifter arm; the tri-ax doesn't. It will be a lot louder, (transmission noise). I really didn't notice a big difference in the throw, however it is easier to find the gears.
The only thing that threw me off was which way to install the shifter. The TRI-AX script will appear upsidedown (towards the front of the vehicle). Let me know if you have any other questions...

 

[hawkls1]

CAN YOU MOVE THE HANDLE BACK A LITTLE.I NOTICE THAT 1,3,5 ARE FARTHER ANY THEN MY FIREHAWK WAS.I WOULD LIKE THE SHIFTER HANDLE BACK A LITTLE.

 

[Goldy]

Cobrabob,

As DRIVINGLESSON said, there is a rubber block (isolater) that comes with the factory shifter (you'll see it as you remove the old shifter); it's between the shifter handle and shifter. Not only does it keep the noise down, but it also allows for the shifts to be less direct (more rubbery). After you install the TriAx, you'll notice the shifts to be very direct/deliberate (no rubbery feel), as well as having shorter throws.

Other than my wife, I've never heard anyone complain about shorter, more direct shifts; I'm certain you enjoy the new shifter very much.

Good Luck.

Howard

 

[Brad]

Originally posted by magnum4000
The Triax does NOT require locktite! :rollseyes

It comes with lock washers, that do the job well. The pro5, on the other hand, does NOT come with lockwashers, and the instructions don't say anything about locktite. Mine came loose while driving down the road. I had the pro5 in my 99 GT, and a triax in my 01 GT, and I went with the triax again in my 03 cobra.

I've never had a Triax work loose. The lockwashers work! :beer:

You might consider putting plumbing grade rubber washers between the bolts and the handle; it will help reduce the noise. Use both rubber boots for the same reason. Fact is, with the T-56, it's going to be noisy and shift great, or quiet and shift like crap.

Good luck! :-D

So the bolts that hold the base of the shifter in that come with the tri ax shouldnt have locktite? Funny it says to use it in the directions, thats wierd, ford also uses it on the stock bolts. Got anymore interesting facts you would like to share with us all?

PS use locktite, there is no reason not to. There is alot of vibration down there and it just seems to be using locktite makes sense. A buddies tri ax became loose after a few months with no locktite.

 

[magnum4000]

Ok, BRAD, it's obvious you don't know what you're talking about. No need to be a prick. :bash:

No, none of the bolts require locktite - this from Steeda who makes the damn thing.

Also, don't use channel locks on the Triax, you'll certainly scratch it. Best way to remove the old shifter is to take it apart as per instructions, then bolt the handle back on, make sure it's in the middle neutral position, and rock it left to right - it will come out after a few tugs. Without the handle on it, it'll seem like it will never come off.

Having had 4 mustangs and 3 shifters, there is no need for locktite on the Triax.

No wonder why some people are afraid to post on here; 'cause of boneheads like Brad.

:loser:
:burn:

 

[CobraBob]

And even more good tips. Can't thank you all enough. My dealer told me in November that this Forum would be a great place for Cobra info, and he was dead-on right. Great group of folks. I hope to meet some of you on the road.

 

[Brad]

Originally posted by magnum4000
Ok, BRAD, it's obvious you don't know what you're talking about. No need to be a prick. :bash:

No, none of the bolts require locktite - this from Steeda who makes the damn thing.

Also, don't use channel locks on the Triax, you'll certainly scratch it. Best way to remove the old shifter is to take it apart as per instructions, then bolt the handle back on, make sure it's in the middle neutral position, and rock it left to right - it will come out after a few tugs. Without the handle on it, it'll seem like it will never come off.

Having had 4 mustangs and 3 shifters, there is no need for locktite on the Triax.

No wonder why some people are afraid to post on here; 'cause of boneheads like Brad.

:loser:
:burn:

I'm not being a prick, as far as I can tell you're the one with the issue. Either way it makes no difference. What your arguing is the same thing as saying, “ohhh you don’t need to pack a back up shoot when you jump out of the airplane, the main shoot will be just fine.” There is no reason not to locktite it, understand yet or is more drilling necessary?:rollseyes Now I'm being a prick moron! If ford uses locktite it must be a bad idea:rollseyes

 

[magnum4000]

Um, $uck you, loser. Go back to your Chevy board, nutless.

:lol:

 

[Brad]

Originally posted by magnum4000
Um, $uck you, loser. Go back to your Chevy board, nutless.

:lol:

I see english is also a problem for you, typical.

 

[magnum4000]

You'd have an easier time typing if you took the $enis out of your mouth.

Read the posting rules, a$$hole.

:bash:

 

[Brad]

Originally posted by magnum4000
You'd have an easier time typing if you took the $enis out of your mouth.

Read the posting rules, a$$hole.

:bash:

You're 13 arnt you? Shhhhh, now would be a good time to stop talking. I'm not turing this guys thread into a flame war because some 13 year old kid has nothing better to do. If you have had luck with no locktite fine, but it give nice piece of mind knowing those 4 bolts arnt going anywhere. Not to mention I have seen a tri ax come loose before. Grow up kiddo!

Sorry cobrabob, just trying to be of some help.

:beer:

 

[magnum4000]

If you were really trying to help, you would not have been such a prick. :bash:

moron.

Stupid people make me sick. :bash:

Sorry to have stumbled upon your carefully concealed homosexuality.