It's been doing this and getting worse. I'd say about 8 out of 10 times trying to start the truck it will turn over but wont fire up and the little theft light in the gauges will be flashing. Turn the key back to off and then the theft light goes off. Try to restart and it may and may not start and then have to go through the same process again until it fires up and starts. Once running, doesn't seems to be any further issues. Any ideas? Could my key be going bad? I bought it used and the dealer only gave me one key with it and the key always had a little crack in the corner.
Turn key, starter/motor cranks but doesn't fire and theft light starts flashing?
- Thread starter emig5m
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My bet would be key. Order a new one off of amazon for like $7
Your Passive Anti Theft System(PATS) has deactivated the fuel injectors on your truck. My bet would be the "chip" has gone out in your key, causing the computer to think someone is trying to steal it. If you can find a method for reprograming it on the internet, you can do it at home. I think you will need two good keys, that will start the truck, for this. Otherwise go to the Ford dealer and they can cut and reprogram a new key for the modest price of an arm and a leg. Seriously it's around $150-$200.
Went to the dealer today and this is what my paperwork says:
"KOEO SELF TEST. NO CODES. DID GET THE NO START ONCE. TRANSIEVER DOES NOT SEE KEY. ORDERED PARTS. ESTIMATE FOR REPAIRS $240 PLUS TAX"
They said that would also include two brand new keys. BTW, I only got one key with the truck (bought it used) so I couldn't do any self programing anyway. They said the parts would come in tomorrow but couldn't promise they could get to it right away because they're stacked for the week. I have the truck back home now and have a second vehicle, just need the truck to put my Seadoo in and out of the water.
"KOEO SELF TEST. NO CODES. DID GET THE NO START ONCE. TRANSIEVER DOES NOT SEE KEY. ORDERED PARTS. ESTIMATE FOR REPAIRS $240 PLUS TAX"
They said that would also include two brand new keys. BTW, I only got one key with the truck (bought it used) so I couldn't do any self programing anyway. They said the parts would come in tomorrow but couldn't promise they could get to it right away because they're stacked for the week. I have the truck back home now and have a second vehicle, just need the truck to put my Seadoo in and out of the water.
Ok, it gets weirder. Twice now the vehicle after getting it to start has died out and stalled after driving for a bit. I just hope the parts they ordered are the actual correct fix for my issue! I haven't paid for any work done yet, does the transceiver communicate with the key after it's started and running?
If I remember correctly, the transceiver must see the key the entire time the vehicle is running. That way somebody can't hold a computer chip close to it, start it and then drive away.
It's intermitting and yes, if it doesn't stay in comm with each other, it will cut the truck out.
It was doing it real bad today! My boat was almost going to be stuck in the river! Finally after 15 tries it started! Got home and was thinking, maybe the connection on the computer could be loose? I took the kick panels off, unclipped the clip that holds the PCM and wiggled the connection. I popped the hood and wiggled and played with the connection from the other side and the truck hasn't acted up since! I cycled the ignition 30 times and not once did it act up after playing with the connection to the PCM!
I have a 3hr drive with the truck tomorrow to pick up some new rims for my car. Hopefully it was just a loose connection! I notice that even the clip doesn't really hold the PCM super tight so it's possible that the connection just got loose over the years? I'll report back tomorrow, hopefully I don't break down, lol.
I have a 3hr drive with the truck tomorrow to pick up some new rims for my car. Hopefully it was just a loose connection! I notice that even the clip doesn't really hold the PCM super tight so it's possible that the connection just got loose over the years? I'll report back tomorrow, hopefully I don't break down, lol.
Ford had a warranty billing code for what they call a "wiggle test." Basically trace out the circuit and wiggle the hell out of the wires and see if said customer concern acted up.
Just remembered, make sure you put of dab of dielectric grease back on the PCM connector. It will keep moisture out of the connection and prevent corrosion.
Just remembered, make sure you put of dab of dielectric grease back on the PCM connector. It will keep moisture out of the connection and prevent corrosion.
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