Two Post Lift and Low Cars

[cidsamuth]

Recently got a Bandpak 2-post, asymmetrical lift. BendPak XPR-10AS Two Post Lift, 10,000 Lb. Capacity, Asymmetric

Mixed reviews on the lift, but that's a discussion for another day.

Anyway, though the lift has "low profile" arms and contact pads, it is still 1/2"-3/4" too high on the front arms to get them under the jacking rails of my lowered Mustang. So, I have to throw a jack under it each time to raise it high enough for the lift arms. It's annoying, and it takes away some from the convenience of having a lift to begin with.

Anyone tackle this issue successfully? I considered:

• Trying to find lower profile pads, but I have been unsuccessful
• Driving the car onto a 1" board. But, if by myself without someone to brace it, the board will likely move as I'm driving on it. I have a finished floor, and would rather not scratch it. Even if I put rubber on the board and successfully keep it from moving, having a board laying around is a bit ghetto for my tastes.
• Using "racing ramps." But, then I'm back to the PITA of lining them up each time. At that point, I might as well just jack up the car instead.

I envisioned a nice 1" rubber mat that would stretch the width of the car and allow me to drive my front tires onto, and could remain on the floor indefinitely. Not sure if such a thing only exists in my head though.

 

[HudsonFalcon]

Recently got a Bandpak 2-post, asymmetrical lift. BendPak XPR-10AS Two Post Lift, 10,000 Lb. Capacity, Asymmetric

Mixed reviews on the lift, but that's a discussion for another day.

Anyway, though the lift has "low profile" arms and contact pads, it is still 1/2"-3/4" too high on the front arms to get them under the jacking rails of my lowered Mustang. So, I have to throw a jack under it each time to raise it high enough for the lift arms. It's annoying, and it takes away some from the convenience of having a lift to begin with.

Anyone tackle this issue successfully? I considered:

• Trying to find lower profile pads, but I have been unsuccessful
• Driving the car onto a 1" board. But, if by myself without someone to brace it, the board will likely move as I'm driving on it. I have a finished floor, and would rather not scratch it. Even if I put rubber on the board and successfully keep it from moving, having a board laying around is a bit ghetto for my tastes.
• Using "racing ramps." But, then I'm back to the PITA of lining them up each time. At that point, I might as well just jack up the car instead.

I envisioned a nice 1" rubber mat that would stretch the width of the car and allow me to drive my front tires onto, and could remain on the floor indefinitely. Not sure if such a thing only exists in my head though.

Horse stall mats from Tractor Supply would fit the bill if you decide to go the rubber mat way.

Kinda sucks though and defeats the purpose of having a lift like you said. Shopping for one myself and would rather not have to add a step to lift my Cobra.

 

[RedVenom48]

The rubber pads sound like a better idea than wood. Some of the newer "armless" Rotary Lifts use rubber stack blocks under the frame or pinch welds to give extra clearance on certain cars.

Maybe buy the 1.5" blocks and place em just before your car is in position and drive up on em. Maybe use 2 per tire. Just an idea and cheaper than race ramps.

1.5″ Rubber Stack Blocks Auto Lift or Rolling Jack Replaces Rotary Lift FJ2439

 

[cidsamuth]

Horse stall mats from Tractor Supply would fit the bill if you decide to go the rubber mat way.

This is an intriguing idea, as they can be had in the size needed. Problem I see, whether they would compress under the weight of the car to the point of being useless for lifting it higher . . .

 

[Fastback]

Recently got a Bandpak 2-post, asymmetrical lift. BendPak XPR-10AS Two Post Lift, 10,000 Lb. Capacity, Asymmetric

Mixed reviews on the lift, but that's a discussion for another day.

Anyway, though the lift has "low profile" arms and contact pads, it is still 1/2"-3/4" too high on the front arms to get them under the jacking rails of my lowered Mustang. So, I have to throw a jack under it each time to raise it high enough for the lift arms. It's annoying, and it takes away some from the convenience of having a lift to begin with.

Anyone tackle this issue successfully? I considered:

• Trying to find lower profile pads, but I have been unsuccessful
• Driving the car onto a 1" board. But, if by myself without someone to brace it, the board will likely move as I'm driving on it. I have a finished floor, and would rather not scratch it. Even if I put rubber on the board and successfully keep it from moving, having a board laying around is a bit ghetto for my tastes.
• Using "racing ramps." But, then I'm back to the PITA of lining them up each time. At that point, I might as well just jack up the car instead.

I envisioned a nice 1" rubber mat that would stretch the width of the car and allow me to drive my front tires onto, and could remain on the floor indefinitely. Not sure if such a thing only exists in my head though.

I took 1×6 lumber, 4 pieces slash cut each at a 45. Cut 2 at 2' and the other at 1'. Screwed 2 of the 2' sections together. And the same with the 1'. Finally screwing the whole lot together. Giving 4" lift, and I can drive up on them with the slash cut and the step up I created, and not have them creep forward. I can take some pics if need be.

I put a piece of tape on the floor to align the ramps.

 

[HudsonFalcon]

This is an intriguing idea, as they can be had in the size needed. Problem I see, whether they would compress under the weight of the car to the point of being useless for lifting it higher . . .

I had them under my car and they don't compress in any measurable way. They weight about 100lbs for a 4x6 mat. They're very rigid and tough. Check them out in person.

 

[Blk04L]

Yea, the horse mats at TS are solid/dense. Parked my former SRT Jeep on them when I moved them to the garage and they didn't sink.

 

[cidsamuth]

I took 1×6 lumber, 4 pieces slash cut each at a 45. Cut 2 at 2' and the other at 1'. Screwed 2 of the 2' sections together. And the same with the 1'. Finally screwing the whole lot together. Giving 4" lift, and I can drive up on them with the slash cut and the step up I created, and not have them creep forward. I can take some pics if need be.

I put a piece of tape on the floor to align the ramps.

Pictures would be great, if you don't mind.

I had them under my car and they don't compress in any measurable way. They weight about 100lbs for a 4x6 mat. They're very rigid and tough. Check them out in person.

Will do. Worst case, I guess they can be doubled up. Perhaps start with 1 and see where it ends up.

 

[cidsamuth]

Looking at the 4x6x.75" mat at Tractor Supply, does the density mean cutting it with a razorblade knife is unrealistic?

 

[Great Asp]

Driving the car onto a 1" board. But, if by myself without someone to brace it, the board will likely move as I'm driving on it. I have a finished floor, and would rather not scratch it. Even if I put rubber on the board and successfully keep it from moving, having a board laying around is a bit ghetto for my tastes.

I have low cars, I feel your pain.

I bought the Rotary (made in the USA) 10,000lb lift, it has a 4-1/2" minimum pad which I bought in order to service the GT40. The pads clear the body and I do not need ramps under the tires.

Now the Cobra is no longer a problem, but it used to be. I couldn't even get a jack under the front end and back far enough to the frame, so I used 1" x 10" boards on all four tires. At first I thought like you are that they would move on the floor, they do not. You kind of get going and roll up on them, not really under power. The front of all four boards I screwed a 2x2 across so while doing it myself I could feel the front of the ramps. Once I got the car up, I would pick up the boards until I was ready to lower the car. There are rubber materials on McMaster Carr that have one side adhesive that you could but on the bottom of the boards to make you feel better. McMaster-Carr

I would use the boards all day long and not feel getto about them. I used them for years when I did not own a lift.

E

 

[VRYALT3R3D]

I have low cars, I feel your pain.

I bought the Rotary (made in the USA) 10,000lb lift, it has a 4-1/2" minimum pad which I bought in order to service the GT40. The pads clear the body and I do not need ramps under the tires.


View attachment 1676419

I would use the boards all day long and not feel getto about them. I used them for years when I did not own a lift.

E

Holy hell that photo is awesome

 

[Great Asp]

Holy hell that photo is awesome

LOL, not to me at the time. I had a dry socket ball joint that was driving me crazy!

E

 

[72MachOne99GT]

Looking at the 4x6x.75" mat at Tractor Supply, does the density mean cutting it with a razorblade knife is unrealistic?

We cut stall mats for my parents barn with a razor blade. Takes a little effort, but you aren’t going to have to put absurd strength into it.

 

[Fastback]

Pictures would be great, if you don't mind.



Will do. Worst case, I guess they can be doubled up. Perhaps start with 1 and see where it ends up.

Guess it's 1x8 random leftovers, but you get the jist. Then when I'm done, they reside on the shelf.

 

[cidsamuth]

Guess it's 1x8 random leftovers, but you get the jist. Then when I'm done, they reside on the shelf.

As of this moment, I'm thinking of doing a hybrid . . . cutting the 4x6 horse mat and gluing a piece of it on top of a slightly larger piece to create the "step" you did with wood. If done neatly, I think it can stay on the floor at the lift location and never move.

 

[Fastback]

As of this moment, I'm thinking of doing a hybrid . . . cutting the 4x6 horse mat and gluing a piece of it on top of a slightly larger piece to create the "step" you did with wood. If done neatly, I think it can stay on the floor at the lift location and never move.

There you go!

I made mine to lift the Cobra high enough to get the lift pads in front and rear. If you don't get tall enough, you still might not get your rear lift pads under. Just a suggestion.

 

[cidsamuth]

There you go!

I made mine to lift the Cobra high enough to get the lift pads in front and rear. If you don't get tall enough, you still might not get your rear lift pads under. Just a suggestion.

With the asymmetrical lift, the rear arms extend too long to reach the jacking rails anyway -- the rails I have only go back about 2/3 of the way from the front wheel to the back.

I've never been comfortable using the pinch points with lifts' flat pads. So, on the rear, I generally use the lower control arm body mount points. When they were first suggested to me, it made me nervous, as I thought they would bend. But, I have since used them 100 times with no issues -- they are very strong . . . and high enough that the lift arms/pads slide under them with ease.

 

[Malern28us]

Mohawk pad height is 3 1/2 inches...sell your POS and buy the correct lift for the job...

 

[cidsamuth]

Aren't you helpful.

Since you're such a genius, take a look at the pad height of the lift in my link and report back.

 

[HudsonFalcon]

Looking at the 4x6x.75" mat at Tractor Supply, does the density mean cutting it with a razorblade knife is unrealistic?

I used a fresh, stout razor blade and my sheetrock square and it cut pretty good. Definitely took some elbow grease but totally doable.

As of this moment, I'm thinking of doing a hybrid . . . cutting the 4x6 horse mat and gluing a piece of it on top of a slightly larger piece to create the "step" you did with wood. If done neatly, I think it can stay on the floor at the lift location and never move.

Good idea. I like the mats over lumber because they're just dead heavy and they don't slide.

Just curious how low your car is? The min. pad height on the bendpak is 4.75" if I read it correct.