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Upgrading Stereo System - questions

Discussion in 'Interior and Exterior' started by cdog1157, Jun 21, 2012.

  1. cdog1157

    cdog1157 New Member Established Member

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    I have a base model 2013 on order and I'm trying to get all my parts lined up for when it gets here in the next few weeks, mainly for the stereo. I'm gonna get a double din with probably the new touch screen Metra unit, already have 4 new 5x7' speakers and I'd like to put a 12" sub and amp in the trunk. I'm not an experienced stereo install guy but from all the threads I've got saved on installs then I can manage to do it myself because I really don't want some boneheads at the local Car Audio shop to tear into my new car and charge me $500 to do so. I'll have no problems with the HU and 5x7's but I've never messed with Subs or an amp and don't know what all wiring accessories I will need. Now to my questions.

    1. I was looking at the JL Audio stealthbox as a sub because I need all the trunk space i can get and they seem to get good reviews. I don't want to rattle the whole neighborhood with bass but I'd like to have a good thump on the inside when I'm in the mood for it. This piece is pretty expensive but probably would be close to the same for a sub and built box from the local shop (they are pretty high). Is this piece worth the money?

    2. I have no idea about amps other than what I read on Crutchfield so I'm not sure which kind I need for my setup. The stealthbox says its rated for 150-600 watts RMS so I thought about a 300-500 watt amp would be sufficient for good bass, am I wrong? Also says Stealthbox is wired for 4-ohms mono so would I need a mono class D 4 ohm amp? I was thinking the HU would be good enough to run the 5x7's since I don't really turn it up very loud and the Shaker 500 with just new front 5x7's in my 2011 sounds pretty dang good to me.

    3. Lastly, what all kind of wiring would I need for the sub and amp? I assume I need something to wire the amp to the battery, rca jacks for the sub to the amp, I've read on here about a line convertor (I don't know what that is), what about something I can adjust the power of the bass by turning a knob or something? With the new HU will I need to run new wiring to the 5x7's or will the stock wires work since the stock harness just plugs into the back of the HU?

    I might just end up installing the HU and 5x7's by myself then paying to have the sub and amp installed depending on what info I can find about it. Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance for any help with my questions.
     
  2. TheVikingRL

    TheVikingRL Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    1: JL Stealthbox is worth the money IMO unless you're experienced and can build something yourself. I currently have one in my truck and am very happy with the output/sq. I've heard nothing but good reviews about the Mustang box as well.

    2: If it were my money I would purchase the JL XD600/1 amp. Actually, that's what I did do with my money:) It's compact, accepts speaker level inputs, has a remote bass level control capabilities and a decent crossover built in. I wouldn't worry about overpowering the sub, underpowering is a much bigger issue. The JL bass knob will actually fit in the factory radio bezel but it JUST fits. See my link below for the install.

    3: JL sells an amp install kit. Wouldn't much matter who's kit you use except the JL kit actually doubles your warranty on the JL amp when used. So, no-brainer here. You won't necessarily need a line-level converter since the amp accepts speaker level inputs. You will need a 12v signal source which was a bit of a pain to isolate. Here is what I did when upgrading my Shaker 1000. Regarding the signal source just tap off of the rear speakers since they're full range or use the sub-out from your new head unit.

    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-mustangs-354/837726-jl-shaker-1000-a.html
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2012
  3. cdog1157

    cdog1157 New Member Established Member

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    Thanks so much!!
     
  4. alex12gt

    alex12gt New Member Established Member

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    Id go with the mtx thunder form over jl unless you just wana pay for the name the mtx is half the price
     
  5. TheVikingRL

    TheVikingRL Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    I never pay close to list for JL products. I have a local dealer who will stay reasonable competitive with the advertised internet prices from non-authorized dealers. No idea if Crutchfield will haggle on prices but they typically just list suggest pricing.
     
  6. 98ATLBlueCobra

    98ATLBlueCobra Member Established Member

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    I just added some stuff to mine. I put in JL audio 5 1/4" component speakers in the front for added highs and mids I then got a Rockford Fosgate p1 10" sub with a 4 channel Prime 400 amp with factor headunit. The amp gives you a lot of adjustability on gain and frequency. I didnt want to go all out and do a dash kit with double din just cause i like the factory look. You would have a lot more adjustability with an aftermarket radio naturally. Also I tried using an aftermarket radio and stock radio wiring harness that you would use to put in a aftermarket radio and plug the two together that way you would not have to splice into the stock radio harness. this didnt work because of how the new cars are wired. To add an amp I had to wire the remote wire to the fuse panel (using a fuse adapter) then I had to splice into the factor radio harness for the speaker connections. This sounds bad but there is room to get to the harness and be able to splice your connections cleanly. I also ran the front door speakers to the amp so they have a little more kick. Unfortunatly with the stock radio you cannot adjust the gain to high because you will get some interference but I am very satisfied with it. Im not great at this stuff but after talking with the local audio shop i bought the stuff from and the internet I was able to do this myself with no big headache. Here is one website i used 2012 Mustang V6 Base After Market Amplifier Installed!! - Ford Mustang Forums
     
  7. cdog1157

    cdog1157 New Member Established Member

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    I'm probaly just gonna do the HU and front speakers myself and see how that sounds. If its good enough then I'll just get a 1 channel amp for the sub, if not then i'll get an amp that'll run my 5x7's and sub then have a sub installed by a local shop while I watch to make sure they don't damage my car.
     
  8. REPCobra10

    REPCobra10 New Member Established Member

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    1-6.jpg
     
  9. Laztug

    Laztug Member Established Member

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    Is there an easy way to add a sub to the car?
    I am happy with the stock mach 500 system but i am missing the lows of the sub. I have a 12" re audio sex sub, Kenwoods KAC-9105D amp and will be using KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks 4 Gauge amp kit to feed the system. Is there a way to install this without hacking into the dash? What else would i need?
     
  10. RI_2011_GT

    RI_2011_GT New Member Established Member

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  11. TheVikingRL

    TheVikingRL Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    Why would you have to hack the dash to add a sub? Just tap into either of the rear speaker wires and let the sub amp filter out high frequencies.

    Unless you really just have to have a new head unit I'd spend my money elsewhere first. Very easy to tap into the factory system and most aftermarket units won't give you any better SQ then the stock Ford player. Plus you won't loose Sync and the steering wheel controls (assuming you have them). Also, the aftermarket bezels don't have particularly good reviews if you do some reading.
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2012
  12. jojobee

    jojobee Member Established Member

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    I have the stealthbox on my 2012gt and it is far better than any custom build boxes that i ever had.

    Some JL boxes have bad reviews but this one for the Mustang is really worth the money..

    The finsh is a perfect match and it looks really good.

    With the box in place i can still put 20in tires in the trunk.


    ---
    I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?jqjnzr
     
  13. 98ATLBlueCobra

    98ATLBlueCobra Member Established Member

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    thevikingrl is correct no need to hack up dash you need a low level converter to take the rear speaker signal into one for ur sub then take a power wire to battery. this is easy on 11 up cars take the front right wheels off and take the inner fender lining out u will see a main harness going into the firewall cut off the nipple that is there and u have access to the cabin very easy to to run thiz then ur remote wire needs to be run to a fuse that is on when the key is turned on.
     
  14. Nsssane1

    Nsssane1 Member Established Member

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    I'd do the install for about $200.
     
  15. cdog1157

    cdog1157 New Member Established Member

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    Nah, I've seen your horrible work and I'd pay just to keep you away from my Prius.
     
  16. Mugzy

    Mugzy Connoisseur Extraordinair Established Member

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    Nope. The rear speaker out will not give you a full signal. In fact, using a line out converter on the shaker 500 will result in shitty sound without processing.

    As you turn the volume up the factory head unit will begin cutting low/high frequencies to save the factory speakers from blowing up.

    The Shaker 500 system is complete crap. The only thing I found useful were the subwoofer enclosures in the doors. I used these for my Focal 6.5" components and put the tweeters in the factory 5x7 location.

    If you use a line out converter that doesn't have some sort of signal leveling then you will not like how it sounds(unless you think the shaker 500 sounds good, then I think you need to go listen to a decent system first).

    Everything about the shaker 500 sucks.

    Have I said I HATE the shaker 500 system?

    Also, if you DO install something. Do NOT run speaker wires through the door. Just pay someone else to do it. What a royal pain int he ass.
     
  17. TheVikingRL

    TheVikingRL Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    Came across this last night and thought it might help with your install. No cutting and gives you two sets of RCA outputs. Can't speak to exactly how it handles Shaker vs non-Shaker setups but it does appear to be pinned for both. Also includes a 12v remote signal lead for amp turn-on. This would not correct for any factory bass roll-off issues but there are plenty of other solutions which handle this and provide EQ adjustment for fine tuning.

    Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

    PACDiagram1.jpg
    PACHUPinout1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2012

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