vibrating clutch pedal

[srl135]

Installed a Spec 3+ with Lethals TOB sleeve, 26 spline input shaft, Fiore FWA and quadrant and a new OEM cable.

Some reason the OEM cable is nearly too long, and no matter how i adjust the fwa the clutch pedal vibrates. I believe that means the TOB is against the PP, but how do i get it off of there? I already have my clutch pedal releasing/engaging at the top end of travel and it really sucks to drive like that.

I need to get rid of the vibration to save the TOB but i also want my clutch to release close to the floor (without vibrating)!

I have heard of going with a Steeda QR quadrant, would that even make a difference?

So can anyone help? Is there a way to adjust the clutch for back a little? That seems like it would get the TOB off of the PP, and also make the cable tighter. Anythign that needs to be adjusted that could affect that?

 

[desert_gypsy]

you can see when the TOB engages the flywheel if you take the inspection cover off. Sounds like you need the LDC clutch freeplay mod (well worth its weight in gold) and, since you dont already have one, a billet clutch quadrant (also a necessary mod).

 

[Black Sex]

When I did my clutch/ flywheel install I ended up going with a adjustable fork stud. I made it alittle taller and that allowed the cable end of fork move farther away from the engine so the tob wasnt riding on the PP fingers. Then the stock cable was to long so I got an adjustable. I also have the Steeda QR quad.

 

[Torched '03]

Hello Srl. I had a similar problem a while back after I installed a new Spec 2 clutch in my Cobra. I had too much slack in the cable and could not adjust the cable enough to get the throw out bearing to stop riding on the pressure plate (even with a Fiore firewall adjuster & quadrant in place). Several people recommended that I purchase a new Ford Clutch cable in the belief that the original cable was stretched out. After installing the new cable, I had the exact same problem. The fix for my car was a new UPR Triple hook quadrant (just the quadrant). I placed the cable on one of the quadrant’s eyelets/hooks that pulled the most slack out of the clutch cable and I was back in business. I hope this is the remedy for you as well. Good luck.

 

[srl135]

desert_gypsy: I had the LDC mod, and it has just caused more problems than its worth. I first tried it with a stock setup and it locked me out of gears, then i put it on the new setup and it wouldnt go into 4th...removed it but already had broken the shift keys. I still have it around, but i dont know that i want to try it again.



killerSVTcobra: Where did you find an adjustable clutch fork? Please send me a link, im curious. Do you recommend the Steeda QR over the Fiore? I went with Fiore because it seemed like everyone was friggin crazy about em... I tried an adjustable cable, it was longer than the OEM one, but it is still around JIC.



Torched '03: That is basically my exact problem! I guess I will have to try it out.. LOL i might have 1000000000 quadrants by the time im done with this thing! Now any ideas on which is better? Steeda QR or UPR triple hook?




also, anyone do the pedal height adjuster mod? Any problems? Feedback?

 

[metaman]

Mine is rattling some right now also. However, my cable adjustment is dialed in. On mine it is the pivot hole on the Steeda QR quadrant. The aluminum in the hole where it attaches to the clutch pedal linkage is worn just enough for the vibration of the engine to cause the pedal to rattle at certain RPM's. I now have to get a new quadrant to fix it.

 

[srl135]

all my stuff is new (within the last month) and due to the freeplay and the vibration, the pedal does audibly rattle when i put it back in neutral sometimes...just barely touching the pedal is enough to stop the godawful noise! LOL Stupid clutches...

 

[Black Sex]

killerSVTcobra: Where did you find an adjustable clutch fork? Please send me a link, im curious. Do you recommend the Steeda QR over the Fiore? I went with Fiore because it seemed like everyone was friggin crazy about em... I tried an adjustable cable, it was longer than the OEM one, but it is still around JIC.


The fork isnt adjustable but the pivot stud is.
Lakewood Suspension 15503 - Lakewood Adjustable Clutch Fork Pivot Balls - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Im pretty sure this is the part # I got. They make all different lengths. Stock height is 1.4" if I remember correctly. Since it is a 1/2" stud you want to makesure the pivot stud screws into the tran atleast 1/2" or it could break off. I took my trans in and out about 6 times just getting it the right length. I ended up going with a adjustable cable aswell. I have a Fidanza aluminum flywheel with centerforce dual friction clutch. I guess every clutch and flywheel combo will have a different stack height.

 

[srl135]

well i have yet to get a fix for it, but i did manage to get it up on a lift tonight and at least check out the inspection port...

TOB has metal shavings around it. I suppose it giong out would explain the vibration.. Hopefully get it all worked out tomorrow with a FORD RACING TOB.

 

[srl135]

The old TOB was wobbly as hell... after the Ford Racing one now, the car is runnin much better and doesnt seem to have the vibration issue. Hope 3rd time is a charm.

 

[SnakeBit]

The purpose of the LDC Spring is to force the clutch arm towards the back of the car which moves the TOB off of the pressure plate fingers IF you have enough slack in the cable. In my experience, without the spring, the TOB will still touch the P/P fingers no matter how much slack you leave in the cable because there is nothing pushing it away. It's not going to move back on it's own.

Properly adjusted with a firewall adjuster, aftermarket quadrant AND Freeplay spring, you should get much better life out of your TOB and the TOB retaining tube.