Want to buy rotary....

JebTonkin

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Well I have been thinking about buying a rotary buffer for sometime now. What really got me thinking abot it was the fact that I have water etching and something that looks almost like small pitting on my hood. I have heard a rotary could take care of that. I have never sued one but am very familiar with a PC. I will probably tape off the edges my first couple times on teh cobra and practice on my Jeep. So any tips, do's, dont's, anything really.
I am considering this polisher
http://www.autogeek.net/poca747po.html
And this pad kit
http://www.autogeek.net/edge-rotary-kit.html
 

RDLightning01

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keep the edges of the pad with plenty of product on it so it doesnt build up on heat. Oh and try to stand clear of things that it can grab like an antenna.
 

SVECobraR

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Nice setup, i love the pad choice, edge has been my go to pads lately, i like them alot better than my old LC variable contacts. Anyway just buy the rotary that has good power and weighs the least. Weight isn't the most important thing but i think its a little more important than power because if you can somehow bog that rotary your burning your paint, and you don't want that. And trust me the weight makes a big difference when you start working on your doors,BIG DIFFERENCE.
 

trance_in_miami

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OK here is my advice, the DeWalt, Makita ,Porter Cable & the Hitachi are the top notch rotaries . The Porter Cable and Makita actually use a number system, it’s a matter of personal preference which works best for you. :read: But i love the light weight a Makita offers

The Makita 9227c and Porter Cable come with Velcro backing plates already installed from the factory so you won’t need to purchase it.
but because you’re purchasing the 8” edge pads@ Autogeek you will be fine. In some cases I use the PC pads I bought, but I do have a set of LC Pads dedicated to my Makita. :idea:

When using the Rotary no matter how much you try your going to get splatter. It’s practically normal ;-) Just make sure you cover the windows. Careful around, antennas and other trim pieces. I have burned trim before & it’s not a pretty site. :nono:

Speed . Keep it smooth & not use brute force. The ideal buffing speed for most products is 1000-1500 rpm. :read: Do not exceed 1700 rpm on your clearcoat paint. When polishing always make sure the surface is warm. This will let you know that you’re doing it right. It also brakes down the abrasives quicker compared to a PC. No pressure is needed on the machine let the machine polish under its own weight. I normally grab the machine by the head to better control the polishing & the motion. let the machine do the work don’t kill yourself. :dw:

Also when polishing Circles & 8’s are not a good idea. Your better of using crosshatch patterns or fwd & back motion/left-right . Make sure you keep the pads clean buildup can cause micro marring on the surface. If you have a small brush/tooth brush you should clean your pad every panel. Just to keep on the safe side :rolleyes: Always keep the machine moving, heat can build up quickly if the buffer remains in one spot. Thus making you cry because you just ruined your paint while trying to be the HERO! :bash:


its takes a while to get the hang of it , But its worth it if you love Detailing :coolman:
 
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SVECobraR

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i have the chicago electric rotary that sprees talking about, i don't use it anymore, i'll give it to you, all you have to do is pay for shipping.
 
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JebTonkin

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trance_in_miami said:
OK here is my advice, the DeWalt, Makita ,Porter Cable & the Hitachi are the top notch rotaries . The Porter Cable and Makita actually use a number system, it’s a matter of personal preference which works best for you. :read: But i love the light weight a Makita offers

The Makita 9227c and Porter Cable come with Velcro backing plates already installed from the factory so you won’t need to purchase it.
but because you’re purchasing the 8” edge pads@ Autogeek you will be fine. In some cases I use the PC pads I bought, but I do have a set of LC Pads dedicated to my Makita. :idea:

When using the Rotary no matter how much you try your going to get splatter. It’s practically normal ;-) Just make sure you cover the windows. Careful around, antennas and other trim pieces. I have burned trim before & it’s not a pretty site. :nono:

Speed . Keep it smooth & not use brute force. The ideal buffing speed for most products is 1000-1500 rpm. :read: Do not exceed 1700 rpm on your clearcoat paint. When polishing always make sure the surface is warm. This will let you know that you’re doing it right. It also brakes down the abrasives quicker compared to a PC. No pressure is needed on the machine let the machine polish under its own weight. I normally grab the machine by the head to better control the polishing & the motion. let the machine do the work don’t kill yourself. :dw:

Also when polishing Circles & 8’s are not a good idea. Your better of using crosshatch patterns or fwd & back motion/left-right . Make sure you keep the pads clean buildup can cause micro marring on the surface. If you have a small brush/tooth brush you should clean your pad every panel. Just to keep on the safe side :rolleyes: Always keep the machine moving, heat can build up quickly if the buffer remains in one spot. Thus making you cry because you just ruined your paint while trying to be the HERO! :bash:


its takes a while to get the hang of it , But its worth it if you love Detailing :coolman:

That is good stuff right there, but after describing the paint(pitting and etching on the top flat parts of the car i.e. hood, top of fenders ct...), the paint has very little swirls. What products and pads would our recommend for my job?
 

trance_in_miami

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I suggest using a white polishing pad with Optimum Polish. it should work PERFECT! :rockon: also I really think all those pads are not necessary. Because if you have a PC orbital you can go over with it, to prevent holograms. Save the 100$ :nonono: you were going to spend & just buy the white pads. Because your paint is in decent condition you only want to remove scratches & not something severe. :-D Just my $ 0.02 ;-)
 

trance_in_miami

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SVECobraR said:
i have a the chicago electric rotary that sprees talking about, i don't use it anymore, i'll give it to you all you have to do is pay for shipping.

That is very cool of you.. Maybe someone can take advantage of it. I would if i did not have a Makita. Awesome " SVECobraR " :beer:
 

JebTonkin

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trance_in_miami said:
I suggest using a white polishing pad with Optimum Polish. it should work PERFECT! :rockon: also I really think all those pads are not necessary. Because if you have a PC orbital you can go over with it, to prevent holograms. Save the 100$ :nonono: you were going to spend & just buy the white pads. Because your paint is in decent condition you only want to remove scratches & not something severe. :-D Just my $ 0.02 ;-)
Well the paint is not bad except for the etching that the pc w/ OC on an orange pad would not take out.
 

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