Ok guys. I'm currently looking into 6r80 swapping my 2011 gt500. I'm currently just a bolt on car and still has the stock clutch. Starting to get a little bit of slippage at the track and I know it won't be much longer before it's toast. So...I'm debating just swapping it all together. New clutch is roughly 1500-2000 including instillation. A local salvage yard sells 6r80 swap kits for around 2500-3k. They have a few listed on eBay. Comes with everything I see that you would need besides the pbh harness. Has any of you guys actually swapped yours? I'm going to be doing all the work myself in my home shop. I have a lift etc. is it that hard? Looks like everything is straight forward and just volts up. Is there any issues with starter? Or pilot bearing? Etc. small details would be helpful. Hoping to keep the swap under 3500. The harness is pretty cheap. And the kits I see are decent also.
Wanting to 6r80 swap. Few questions
- Thread starter cheetohead04
- Start date
You'll run into some major headaches with the trans controller. I'm not sure if there are any good standalone controllers out for it yet. Pretty sure the "best" option right now is to swap to a Coyote ECU.
Wait until SEMA. US Shift will be releasing their Quick 6 controller which is compatible with the 6R80. Full stand alone controller.
They are actually sending them out now to beta testers.
https://www.facebook.com/USShift/
If this works out its going to be a game changer in the swap. Pull trans, slap in new trans, plug in controller and get ready to roll.
I have asked if it will support the select shift using a 13/14 shifter and they said it could once they release the full version.
Hell yessss! Cant wait for a review from someone!
What's the issue now? I thought the new harness pbh released is all we needed? That we could use our factory pcm (2011-2012) and just buy their harness and Lund will retune for with stock pcm for the auto trans?
You need an Auto coyote ECU and not the GT500 ECU. You will also need a new ABS module flashed to match the Coyote ECU, you will need PATS turned off in the Coyote ECU (all can be done by someone with an IDS tool). Some say they can reflash the ABS module to accept the new VIN but others say it only works some of the time and its better to start fresh.
You also need to go to a return style fuel system as the Coyote ECU isnt set up for 2 FPDM's that come on the GT500. You can get away with just getting a return line, a fuel pressure regulator, drilling a hole in the fuel hat for the return line to connect to, however that would not be the way I would do it. I would get a full fore system at that point.
The swap kit includes new ecu with pats off also the abs module. I haven't heard anything about the fuel system. New to me
If it comes with all of that then yes you are good to go once you figure out the fuel system, last time I looked at it I dont remember the abs being included or the Pats being done already. The ebay ad clearly says it is done though.
Looks like the 2011/2012 non select shift is 2750 plus a drive shaft and the 2013/2014 select shift is 3,350 with a stock driveshaft.
Looks like the 2011/2012 non select shift is 2750 plus a drive shaft and the 2013/2014 select shift is 3,350 with a stock driveshaft.
Yeah they are about an hour from me
If you end up doing it make sure to come back and let us know how it turns out.
I want to bad. Just don't want to plunge into not knowing what to do. And not wanting to go crazy on spending.
Mines been running mint all season along with another guy i sold a kit to and helped out.......best $$ you will ever spend
hey man I messaged you yesterday to talk about the swap
yeah don't take no offence if i don't reply i get about 5 PM's a day about the recipe for a successful swap and will this work and that work or how do you do this...lol
Haha yeah I understand
$1249 Retail Price .....OUCH
to post or not to post lol....I feel your pain tvsvert..
After doing ALOT of searching and stalking of TVS verts old for sale threads and wtb threads that popped up.
I am not sure the stand alone route is the better option in the grand scheme of things.
It looks like there is about a 1,500 difference between going with all new parts from Autonation with the controller than going with the swap kit from Ebay and a full return system. If anyone wants my spread sheet with part numbers and links just pm me your email and I will email it over.
The only two items I need to figure out is 1) will the 13/14 ABS block bolt into the 11/12 body, ie are the fitting the same or do you leave the block alone and just swap over the module onto the original abs block. 2) do you need an additional harness to wire in the auto shifter. I am guessing you need an additional harness as the 2011/2012 mustang gt did not have the select shift and the Shelby didnt have the auto option so why put the wiring there, but that would require a complete new harness so for only the few thousand made maybe it is there. I plan to check tonight when I get home. Might be as easy as running a couple wires. I have not got my hands on an auto shifter to see what all it would even have powered other than the select a shift option.
To me the full return system and the select a shift would be worth the price difference.
I am hoping that Dan or anyone else that has done the swap will be gracious enough to answer how he handled those two items. When I get this done I plan on doing a full write up to help others. It actually does not seem as bad as I thought it would be. For some reason I think I remember seeing that the ABS fittings were different between the 11/12 and the 13/14.
I am not sure the stand alone route is the better option in the grand scheme of things.
It looks like there is about a 1,500 difference between going with all new parts from Autonation with the controller than going with the swap kit from Ebay and a full return system. If anyone wants my spread sheet with part numbers and links just pm me your email and I will email it over.
The only two items I need to figure out is 1) will the 13/14 ABS block bolt into the 11/12 body, ie are the fitting the same or do you leave the block alone and just swap over the module onto the original abs block. 2) do you need an additional harness to wire in the auto shifter. I am guessing you need an additional harness as the 2011/2012 mustang gt did not have the select shift and the Shelby didnt have the auto option so why put the wiring there, but that would require a complete new harness so for only the few thousand made maybe it is there. I plan to check tonight when I get home. Might be as easy as running a couple wires. I have not got my hands on an auto shifter to see what all it would even have powered other than the select a shift option.
To me the full return system and the select a shift would be worth the price difference.
I am hoping that Dan or anyone else that has done the swap will be gracious enough to answer how he handled those two items. When I get this done I plan on doing a full write up to help others. It actually does not seem as bad as I thought it would be. For some reason I think I remember seeing that the ABS fittings were different between the 11/12 and the 13/14.
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ok i got some free time so here it goes.
No need to remove the ABS Block IE where the fittings and shit are as you only need to remove the Electronic part of the ABS Module, some people are able to get away with a Used ABS Module some need new (blank) ones for it to take when you use the IDS Tool to match the Keys, Cluster, ABS module and PCM.
In Terms of the Auto shifter that all boys into place rather easily in terms of the plug that goes into the shifter your GT500 won't have it like the Coyote GT's your gonna have to Wire that Bad Boy yourself, if i remember correctly there are 6 wires, one goes to the Brake Switch for Park Safety lock, 1 wire goes to the 12V Lights on switch(the PRNDS lights on the shifter, 1 goes to ground, and the other 2 go i can't remember what pin for the Select-Shift, wiring it is pretty Easy. Got online and grab yourself a Wiring diagram and don't be afraid. Also your gonna have to wiring your intercooler pump and Heat Exchanger Fans to come on as the PCM isn't programmed like the GT500 one to come on at a Certain IAT2 temp.....you need to cut a wire on the body harness at the PCM and running it to a ground i wanna say its PIN 51 and Intercooler Pump and Fans will come on when key is on
Hope this Help
No need to remove the ABS Block IE where the fittings and shit are as you only need to remove the Electronic part of the ABS Module, some people are able to get away with a Used ABS Module some need new (blank) ones for it to take when you use the IDS Tool to match the Keys, Cluster, ABS module and PCM.
In Terms of the Auto shifter that all boys into place rather easily in terms of the plug that goes into the shifter your GT500 won't have it like the Coyote GT's your gonna have to Wire that Bad Boy yourself, if i remember correctly there are 6 wires, one goes to the Brake Switch for Park Safety lock, 1 wire goes to the 12V Lights on switch(the PRNDS lights on the shifter, 1 goes to ground, and the other 2 go i can't remember what pin for the Select-Shift, wiring it is pretty Easy. Got online and grab yourself a Wiring diagram and don't be afraid. Also your gonna have to wiring your intercooler pump and Heat Exchanger Fans to come on as the PCM isn't programmed like the GT500 one to come on at a Certain IAT2 temp.....you need to cut a wire on the body harness at the PCM and running it to a ground i wanna say its PIN 51 and Intercooler Pump and Fans will come on when key is on
Hope this Help
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