Water pump is in....

[Stewart_H]

FINALLY!

I installed the new water pump, Dieselsite's coolant bypass filter, 203 degree thermo and new billet thermo housing, new serpentine belt and upper and lower radiator hose.

The backflushing of the old coolant was a pain. A bad lower back and two screwed up knees don't lend themselves to getting up and down a ton of times to open the block drains and lower rad hose.

I had to really take my time and only do a few hours each day, but I finally finished!

Chevron Delo ELC is now the lifeblood in my rig.

Stewart

 

[Lord Tauk]

Cool Stewart.

Where's the block drain(s) located? I was thinking about just unscrewing the block heating element.

 

[Stewart_H]

The one on the drivers side is very easy to see. It's right up on the block, adjacent to the oil filter.

The other (passenger side) is more difficult to see, because it's above the starter. Look between the oil pan and starter, and you'll see the plug.

It's kinda hard to see, but it's actually very easy to reach. Just reach up from the rear of the starter, up and over the starter, and the plug is right there.

Use a 1/4" ratchet on the plugs. No extension is necessary on the passenger side plug, but you'll need a medium extension on the drivers side.

I used the pictures from this site as a reference. Once you find the drivers side (next to the oil filter setup) the passenger side is a breeze, because it's just a straight line across to the other side.

http://www.dieselsite.com/pdffiles/evans.pdf

I used Gooch's method for backflushing the engine of all the green coolant so I could upgrade to the Delo ELC. It worked like a charm.

BTW, the bypass plug on my water pump was a hex head, so I was able to use my head head socket to remove the plug!

Stewart

 

[!!!PainTrain!!!]

Hey Stewart, where did ya get the coolant filter from? I have grit and sand all in my over flow, I guess from casting at the factory.

 

[Stewart_H]

Dieselsite.com has the coolant bypass filter kit. http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=459

The casting sand and grit in the cooling system can't be flushed out no matter how hard you try. Filtering the coolant is the only way to go.

I bought the two ball valves along with the coolant filter setup, and extra filters.

Stewart

 

[Lord Tauk]

I bought the two ball valves along with the coolant filter setup, and extra filters.

Stewart

You sound like me Stewart, I bought the same exact stuff for my coolant filter.

Thanks for the info on the block plugs. I have a 203 thermo and their housing to go in once I get some time for a coolant change.

 

[Stewart_H]

No worries!

I have all the step-by-step procedures (ie coolant flush, water pump removal, fan clutch removal, NAPA parts list for rad hoses, etc) spelled out on word docs if anyone needs them.

Stewart

 

[Lord Tauk]

Coolant flush would be nice to have a copy of just for reference if you don't mind, [email protected]

 

[Stewart_H]

That one has no pictures that need hosting, so I'll post it here.

The following is Gooch's (TDS member and coolant guru) method for backflushing coolant completely from an engine.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Goochs Radiator Flush Procedure​

Here's my flush procedure for doing a complete flush:

You'll need the following:

4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate. In agreement with International who made your engine, I recommend a conventional coolant with SCA, or a pre-charged conventional coolant for the early 99's (pre-2/2/99). For all other 99-up PSD's I recommend a Heavy Duty ELC. But the choice of coolant is yours.

SCA (if using conventional un-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).

Up to 20 gallons of distilled water (you may use less if your tap water quality is excellent requiring less flushing).

A Prestone flush kit with "T".

1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").

A new thermostat gasket.

Possibly a new thermostat, new coolant filter (if you've added one), or any hoses or hose clamps that you think may need replacing.

Note: A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.


Flushing procedure:

Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help circulate the old coolant out of the heater core during flushing.

Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

Drain radiator at pet-**** (bottom left-hand driver's side) into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container (this is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter).

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing).

Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

Close radiator pet-****.

Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).

Install that heater hose to one end of the flush "T".

Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".

Install the remaining end of the 5.8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from.

*Note*: You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired.

Install garden hose onto flush "T".

Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint).

Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

Drain radiator at petcock, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.

Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose to engine.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock permanently.

Install both block plugs and tighten permanently.

(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad).

Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket.

Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).

Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

Replace degas bottle cap.

Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.

Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle. (this may take several days).

Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If in cold climates, it is always best to have the freeze protection tested with a quality refractometer.

Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

The above procedure works great.

I used it to completely remove all traces of the green coolant so I could upgrade and use an ELC in my engine.

Stewart

 

[Lord Tauk]

Thanks Stewart.

BTW, post up some pics in the coal rolling thread!

 

[Stewart_H]

I need to, I know!

It'll be at least a couple weeks though. I just hooked my TT to the wifes Ex and she took off this morning with my daughter to Washington.

They're attending the Australian Cattle Dog 2007 Nationals at Mount Vernon. We have a Blue Healer we're trying to accumulate points on so she can eventually become a champion.

Stewart

 

[Lord Tauk]

Sounds like fun.

Hey, I meant to ask you, where did you buy that Delo ELC from? I can't seem to find it anywhere or am I not looking? I would almost like to buy it off the net.

 

[portcity_gt]

Sounds like fun.

Hey, I meant to ask you, where did you buy that Delo ELC from? I can't seem to find it anywhere or am I not looking? I would almost like to buy it off the net.

we sell it at my work(peterbilt dealership) you may want to try one of the dealerships or a truck stop maybe.

 

[Stewart_H]

Sounds like fun.

Hey, I meant to ask you, where did you buy that Delo ELC from? I can't seem to find it anywhere or am I not looking? I would almost like to buy it off the net.

http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/nafl/wheretobuy.shtm

There ya go!

Stewart

 

[99cobrablack]

we sell it at my work(peterbilt dealership) you may want to try one of the dealerships or a truck stop maybe.

what do you do there?

 

[portcity_gt]

paint and body

 

[Lord Tauk]

Cool thanks for the info guys.

I actually have to go to a big rig/diesel truck shop soon, I usually buy Baldwin fuel filters from them - I'm sure they will have some type of Diesel ELC there, I'm glad I asked or I probably wouldn't have thought to look when I go there. lol