What a difference a clutch master can make!

[barspen]

...

The clutch stop is on the pedal assembly in the cab. Take a look under your dash and you'll see a 1" plastic button that goes through a rubber washer toward the bottom of the assembly that the clutch can impact when it's depressed.

Thanks again for the detail. I think my point of confusion is the Master Cylinder is located. It sounds likes it's under the dash panel, connected to the clutch pedal assembly. I was looking the part connected to brake booster (under the fluid reservoir) under the hood.

Its labeled as the 'master cylinder', but its not the location you describe in the post...and the actual part looks completely different. Is this not the Master Cylinder? Or, is there a separate brake MC and clutch MC (cue 'Ah ha' moment).

 

[Catmonkey]

That appears to be the brake master cylinder without the reservoir. The clutch master cylinder is not connected in any way to the brake master cylinder and is a completely different component. Here is a photo of the clutch master cylinder on the pedal assembly. Obviously this is a 13-14.

That round disk on the bottom of the assembly is the stop I was referring to earlier. The 13-14 has a thicker rubber disc under the pastic button than my assembly had and the piston rod connector was contacting the body with the clutch pedal depressed.

 

[barspen]

Perfect. Now everything makes sense. THX! Glad I checked so I order the correct parts for the issue I'm trying to address.

 

[RedVenom48]

Lol, the parts dept at the dealer i took my car too ordered the brake master instead of the clutch master

 

[merkyworks]

Is it absolutely necessary to replace the brake reservoir with an auto one of can you just plug and cap it and its still safe?

 

[Catmonkey]

You can, it's just that should it leak, it will ruin the paint below it. Part no. is 9R3Z-2K478-B for 2010 on up for the automatic reservior.

 

[barspen]

Almost done with my install and ready to do a write up soon...Did anyone have issue getting the braided clutch line into the master cylinder receptacle input? I have been pushing and trying to get it to seat, but no luck. Driving me nuts. Any tips or tricks

 

[Catmonkey]

I'm using the FRPP steel line with the braided end and I had a little difficulty putting mine back together, but went back together fine once I got the line positioned properly. I can't imagine that issue with a braided line. I'd inspect the o-rings on the end and make sure that's not an issue. Other than that, put a little brake fluid on the o-ring and give it another shot. If you can't get the retaining clip back in, you may be pushing the end too far into the master cylinder. Try backing it out just a smidgen.

 

[barspen]

O-rings looks OK, but I am re-using the original ones (line was installed 11 months ago). Brake fluid did help a bit.

It's defiantly not going in far enough. The grove (red arrow) in where the pin clip goes and I cannot see it through the gap on the MC. It sounds/feel like the first stage part of the tip is going in and then I cant get it past that point in order to secure the locking pin. What's even stranger, I cant even it in the old MC all the way either.

Very frustrating :-(

 

[Catmonkey]

Any chance something could have happened to the fitting while it was out?

 

[barspen]

Any chance something could have happened to the fitting while it was out?

Doubt it. The end just sat on a rag for a few days when I have been working on it.

Tried removing the rubber washers and the fitting went in with no issue. Placed one on the first ring (outside)...worked. Put one on the inside ring and it gets stuck. Might try to grab some new washers at the HW store. I'm guessing running one washer is probably not wise, even if it fits OK.

 

[Catmonkey]

I have two aftermarket lines and they both only use one o-ring. Now neither fitting is cut for 2 o-rings either.

 

[barspen]

Ended up being worn washers. Although they looked OK, my guess is there was some excessive flex and caught the edge of the MC input and made the line tip get stuck. Quick trip to Ace and a few #5 washers fixed it up! Thanks Catmonkey!

 

[Catmonkey]

That's why it's helps to lube them too. Dry sharp edges can cut the o-ring and give you fits putting it back together. I've ruined two o-rings for the EVAP valve by putting it together dry.

 

[barspen]

here's my journey in detail -Hydraulics makeover