What HP?

[Jimmysidecarr]

That has got to be one of the best explainations, about the cooling/piston failure issues on our Terminators I have seen to date!!!!

Plain english... no BS... and valid facts!!!

and trust me... Larry would know!!!

Jimmy :bowdown: :beer:

 

[Wings65288]

Nope, not a typo 7&8 are both on same side to the best of my knowledge. The pass side head has a coolant line running off it that goes to the heater core so those generally dont suffer the same problem as the rear 2 cylinders on the drivers side. The apten and aother head mods simply run a line off rear of drivers side head and T it into the line on pass side head to offer a little coolant flow.

damn this is all starting to make sense, whats another good cooling mod that will make a good impact out of Evan's cooling mods? i know you say their all good, but which would YOU star with?

 

[Shadowgray03]

damn this is all starting to make sense, whats another good cooling mod that will make a good impact out of Evan's cooling mods? i know you say their all good, but which would YOU star with?

Due to how tight it is between radiator and front of engine I would probably do the radiator and water pump if were to just do some of it.

The inlet kind of opens another can of worms since it requires an oil-air cooler, relocating oil filter etc. For anyone running just an upper and are mainly a street car with occassional 1/4 mile use I think the waterpump and rad are a good idea. If you pushing hard and seeing 17psi OR into road racing the whole system really should be done in my eyes.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Due to how tight it is between radiator and front of engine I would probably do the radiator and water pump if were to just do some of it.

The inlet kind of opens another can of worms since it requires an oil-air cooler, relocating oil filter etc. For anyone running just an upper and are mainly a street car with occassional 1/4 mile use I think the waterpump and rad are a good idea. If you pushing hard and seeing 17psi OR into road racing the whole system really should be done in my eyes.

I would agree with that.... although it brings up a question :shrug:

Can you run the high flow true 180 Evans relocated T-Stat/housing... without doing the highflow inlet????

I know the bypass has to go somewhere and normally the crossover tube gets welded up... but have you heard??? or know???

I would like to do the T-Stat and waterpump and real guage and see what I've got... I'm still stock...

That factory stat is a @#&*%$# :rollseyes

Jimmy :shrug:

 

[Greymare]

I think for now I want the head cooling mod, water pump, and radiator with a 180 tstat. Will this work for now?
Is fluidyne the only ones making a raiator for these cars?
How does a Griffin compare to them?
Where is the best place to get a radiator?
Where do you plumb in a manual temp gauge?
I allready have on in the car from the 302 that I had in it.

 

[Shadowgray03]

I would agree with that.... although it brings up a question :shrug:

Can you run the high flow true 180 Evans relocated T-Stat/housing... without doing the highflow inlet????

I know the bypass has to go somewhere and normally the crossover tube gets welded up... but have you heard??? or know???

I would like to do the T-Stat and waterpump and real guage and see what I've got... I'm still stock...

That factory stat is a @#&*%$# :rollseyes

Jimmy :shrug:

Thats a good question Jimmy, I guess I havent looked into what it would take to do their t-stat without the inlet. Honestly, due to having to close the hole in the coolant crossover tube and losing the bypass line on the lower t-stat (which is incorporated into the evnas inlet) I think it would be tough, probably not undoable, but for the extra effort I would just hold off on t-stat until I did the inlet.

I think for now I want the head cooling mod, water pump, and radiator with a 180 tstat. Will this work for now?
Is fluidyne the only ones making a raiator for these cars?
How does a Griffin compare to them?
Where is the best place to get a radiator?
Where do you plumb in a manual temp gauge?
I allready have on in the car from the 302 that I had in it.

The stock t-stat is 180 I beleive so I dunno if I would put another 180 in.

The fluidyne unit that most of us have is just the 97 and up rad that they have but all the fittings and such are in the same sport. I know there are a few other rad makers so any 97+ unit should work.

For the temp gauge, ideally you would want it in the crossover tube. The stock sender is right at the base of the coolant crossover tube on drivers side head. I know someone is making an aftermarket crossover plug that has a fitting for a sender, its pretty slick. Here is a link to the info.

http://svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160775&highlight=crossover+temp

Keep in mind that even with an accurate aftermarket gauge it not going to accuratly represent temps in the heads at the combustion chamber. Everyone uses the temp gauge as gospel claiming they are running safe temps, but the rate at which high HP engines are failing indicates otherwise.

 

[Greymare]

Bit the bullit today. I ordered all of the cooling mods from Evans. They were very informative. I also ordered a LFP Radiator and heat exchanger. I then ordered the LDC cooling mod. I should be ready to go.

 

[Greymare]

Also talking to evans the biggest thing to do first is the T-Stat relocation and the water neck. According to Dave at evans the stock setup allows some of the water back into the block before it gets into the radiator. There for letting the hot water in the block go back in the block without any cooling.

 

[Wings65288]

how much did you spend for each thing greymare?

 

[Shadowgray03]

Bit the bullit today. I ordered all of the cooling mods from Evans. They were very informative. I also ordered a LFP Radiator and heat exchanger. I then ordered the LDC cooling mod. I should be ready to go.

Keep in mind that in order to utilize the t-stat/inlet combo you have to weld or otherwise close up the small water outlet on the coolant crossover tube.

 

[matchb0x]

i'm collecting a bunch important info thread for when i get my cobra and i'm definately suscribing to this thread. :thumbsup:

thanks to all those that take the time to post all the helpful info, you may think you are just throwing info out there but i really appreciate it. i feel if i can learn about the car before i buy it then ill know what to do when i get it. keep it up. :rockon:

and like a dipshit i forget to suscribe :rollseyes

 

[Greymare]

how much did you spend for each thing greymare?

Wing here is the list

Evans
Water pump $169.95
Inlet $159.95
Remote T-stat $99.95
Oil filter relocation kit $239.95

LFP
Radiator $359

LDC Chicago Cooling mod $185.95

Total for every cooling mod you need=$1214.75
Sounds like alot but go and look up the cost of a short block for one of these cars and you see it is well worth the money!

 

[wandler20]

At what point(hp) do these parts become essential?

 

[Greymare]

At what point(hp) do these parts become essential?

I think they where saying around the 600hp mark. I would say if you are road racing or something any horsepower range.

 

[wizbangdoodle]

So me, at 454 rwhp and an occasional run at the strip, am OK? I know it would be a good idea to keep things as cool as possible all the time but if I spend any more money on this car my wife is going to make me sleep in it...permanently. Any reason for me to freak out?

 

[wandler20]

So me, at 454 rwhp and an occasional run at the strip, am OK?

This too is what I am wondering because I dont plan on doing a lot of racing/dragging...

 

[ORANGE CRUSH]

I would like to know this too...

 

[Vox]

How do you guys know this stuff works?

Putting in a bigger radiator doesn't really mean its going to be able to take more heat out.

Does anyone have any real data? Shelbyguy, I see you post the same info in almost every single coolant thread but never any actual data.

Where is X car ran at X temp with X power level or overheated doing an open track event.

Spent 1200 in magic cooling parts and is now staying at 200 degrees durning an open track event.

Just don't see that data floating around, only people pushing the Evans stuff when most of them don't even have it installed themselves.

Its turning into one those "I heard from this guy that so and so" and its just being passed from one person to another.

I would love to be able to see that this stuff is working, I'd wouldn't mind getting some extra cooling insurance when I OT my Cobra but honestly I havent seen anything yet that shows it works.

Is there Data somwhere from people not associated with Evans? :shrug: :shrug:

 

[Shadowgray03]

Wing here is the list

Evans
Water pump $169.95
Inlet $159.95
Remote T-stat $99.95
Oil filter relocation kit $239.95

LFP
Radiator $359

LDC Chicago Cooling mod $185.95

Total for every cooling mod you need=$1214.75

Dont forget you will likely want an oil/air cooler as well......or is that included in your price above for oil filter relocation kit?

On a side noter, when you use the evans inlet you lose a home for your oil pressure sender so make sure to account for that. Personally I opted for the canton billit oil filter adapter. It has 4 ports on it, runs like $95 or so..

 

[wizbangdoodle]

I was also reading about water/methanol injection at http://www.snowperformance.net/

Would this help to keep things a bit cooler? Has anyone tried this on an '03-04 Cobra?