I've finally gotten to the point in my life where I can afford to build my 01 Cobra's engine how I want. I've already picked up a new set of 03 Cobra heads off of ebay for a decent price. I am finishing tearing down the short block this weekend and then it'll be off to the machine shop. My question is does anyone have a comprehensive list of tools needed to build a mod motor? I'm looking for the measuring tools and specialty tools I'll need. Ideal would be if you had recommendations for which specific tools (part #s) work best for this motor. For example I know I need a dial indicator but there are so many to choose from I have no idea which to pick, I also don't want to pick one that is not the best for this application.
What specialty tools do I absolutely need to build a 4.6 DOHC?
- Thread starter warpd
- Start date
I used feeler gauges, a dial indicator, and a torque wrench when I built mine. The machine shop handled the heads for me. Although I do have a couple of spring compressors from other builds. I didn't use any of the cam tools or anything like that.
Starrett and Mitutoyo are good brands for dial indicators and the like. I'm a calibration tech so I deal with that stuff a lot. I did take my Harbor Freight stuff in to work and it was dead on. Hard to beat the price on those.
Starrett and Mitutoyo are good brands for dial indicators and the like. I'm a calibration tech so I deal with that stuff a lot. I did take my Harbor Freight stuff in to work and it was dead on. Hard to beat the price on those.
Thanks for posting the Harbor Freight comment, for us hacks out here the price is great.
The first tool you want is a Haynes and/or Ford repair manual for your model year car. Of all the tools I have, these are the two I reach for the most often (I have both).
Search this board for tools and procedures to degree your cams. Decking the heads and block will change the 'Dot to Dot' valve timing slightly (retarding the cams I think). The good news is that you can adjust for it easily by degreeing the cams yourself. The stock cam timing is great for emissions, but lousy for performance. Mine, for example, have been set to 110/114 which greatly improved low end torque. Search this board for details - this is a well traveled road.
The machine shop should take care of all the other measurements needed. You will need 2 torque wrenches; 1 reading up to 200 foot pounds and one reading up to 200 inch pounds. The rest is all just standard and deep well metric sockets.
One optional tool to consider is a pre-oiler. Once the engine is built, you will want to get oil run through the all the oil valleys before the engine starts. Many people just use the starter, but I am not a big fan of that approach. You can build a poor man's pre-oiler for about $25 using a plastic weed sprayer tank and a few hoses.
Other low cost considerations to finish the rebuild;
Rebuild the IMRC's while the engine is apart - total cost about $35
Send injectors out for cleaning and flow matching - total cost about $12 per injector
Replace all the rotted vacuum lines while the engine is out - total cost about $30
Replace all the o-rings in your AC system while the engine is out - total cost about $15 plus cost of pag oil and a few cans of 134a . You can borrow a vacuum pump and manifold gauges form the parts store for $0 to refill the system.
Search this board for tools and procedures to degree your cams. Decking the heads and block will change the 'Dot to Dot' valve timing slightly (retarding the cams I think). The good news is that you can adjust for it easily by degreeing the cams yourself. The stock cam timing is great for emissions, but lousy for performance. Mine, for example, have been set to 110/114 which greatly improved low end torque. Search this board for details - this is a well traveled road.
The machine shop should take care of all the other measurements needed. You will need 2 torque wrenches; 1 reading up to 200 foot pounds and one reading up to 200 inch pounds. The rest is all just standard and deep well metric sockets.
One optional tool to consider is a pre-oiler. Once the engine is built, you will want to get oil run through the all the oil valleys before the engine starts. Many people just use the starter, but I am not a big fan of that approach. You can build a poor man's pre-oiler for about $25 using a plastic weed sprayer tank and a few hoses.
Other low cost considerations to finish the rebuild;
Rebuild the IMRC's while the engine is apart - total cost about $35
Send injectors out for cleaning and flow matching - total cost about $12 per injector
Replace all the rotted vacuum lines while the engine is out - total cost about $30
Replace all the o-rings in your AC system while the engine is out - total cost about $15 plus cost of pag oil and a few cans of 134a . You can borrow a vacuum pump and manifold gauges form the parts store for $0 to refill the system.
Decking the heads doesn't change the dot to dot line up. The tensioners take up whatever slack is there. I do agree with degreeing the cams though for performance sake. I started mine without a pre-oiler, but extra oil at start up never hurts. And the 99/01 Cobras don't have IMRC's.
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