Which engine? Rebuild the Cobra, or new Mach I

[audioqueso]

Good Morning Everyone,

It's been a few weeks since I've purchased my Cobra, and I've had a few upgrades already, but need to get some opinions to determine the path of my upgrades. The car already has exhaust, cai, gears, chip, fuel and injector upgrades. It's pretty fast. Yes, it can be faster, but I am not building it for the 1/4 mile, so speed is not my first priority. The plan is for open track. So the first thing I've working on is the drivetrain. Purchases for this year include clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, 4.10 gears, rebuilt rear end. Maybe around mid-end 2007 I will swap the T-45 for a T-56. All this should ensure my drivetrain.

However, here's where my engine is a concern. I WAS planning to drive the the car to work only maybe 2-3 times a month, but I find myself having way too much fun with it and so I end up using it more like 2-3 times a week. This will put the engine close to 100k soon. SVT engines aren't easy to find new, but the Mach I engine. So I'm wondering, should I (after the drivetrain is complete) work on rebuilding the engine (better h/c/i, etc) as it gets older, or leave the engine as it is and buy a new Mach I engine once the Cobra dies? I ask this now because I'm wondering whether certain drivetrain part will be different based on the engine. I will appreciate everyone's input.

 

[CY98Cobra]

The Mach 1 engine puts out very good power and will be more enjoyable to drive due to it's huge low and mid range advantage. However, it would probably be cheaper to build your engine up using newer parts.

A set of 03 style heads, aftermarket cams and a ported intake will make more power than a Mach 1 engine and probably cost less. Of course all that depends on the internals you use and what kind of deal you could get on a new Mach engine.

 

[audioqueso]

$6k for a brand new Mach I engine.

 

[Shangsta]

Since your setting the car up for opentrack keep the teksid block because the lighter weight will help with weight distribution. I would do a big bore on the thing and youll have a nice torquey motor with enough top end for open track. also what are you doing about suspension?

 

[CY98Cobra]

Since your setting the car up for opentrack keep the teksid block because the lighter weight will help with weight distribution. I would do a big bore on the thing and youll have a nice torquey motor with enough top end for open track. also what are you doing about suspension?

The Mach 1 has a WAP aluminum block. It is actually lighter than the Teksid by a few pounds but of course it isn't as strong. Strength isn't really relevant unless he plans on making alot of power though.

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

If you want on open track engine, go with a pushrod engine, they are much lighter.

 

[HouseOfPower]

if your concerned about mileage and wear and tear on your car; new H/C/I aren't going to be the solution! If I were you for the money you would spend on a mach one motor you could have several very reputable mod motor builders come up with a setup that works best for you.

 

[audioqueso]

Can you give me an example? My understanding was that if I pretty much upgraded all the parts of the engine, it pretty much gives new life to the engine. New heart, lungs, etc, until you pretty much have a brand new life. Something like that. I guess you're saying that for about $6k, a reputable builder and take my engine and pretty much make it new again. Is that right? If so, could you give me an example of what a reputable builder might do? Thanks.

 

[97BlackSnake]

Well the top end is not the whole motor!! i broke a ring at just 69000 miles!!! There for the bottom end needs to be rebuilt in mine. imo the bottom end is more important because of my experiance start there have someone rebuild or send it out to VT and have them build it then buy you hci and then install it all if you got the balls or have someone do then you got a brand new motor!! i been doin alot of research and the VT "big bore" short block seems to be the best deal around that matched with some 03/04 heads, FR500 valve train, and fr500 cams, and a lincoln aviator intake (will not clear stock hood) is your best bet if you want some insane N/A power! look up NAZMAN on here he has bigbore, fr500 hci and supporting mods and he make 460rwhp N/A sickest car on SVTP imo!!!!

oh yeah they say aviator intake flows pretty close to the FR500 intake and you can pick one up cheap as aposed to the FR500 intake witch is 3400 new yikes!!!

 

[HouseOfPower]

Can you give me an example? My understanding was that if I pretty much upgraded all the parts of the engine, it pretty much gives new life to the engine. New heart, lungs, etc, until you pretty much have a brand new life. Something like that. I guess you're saying that for about $6k, a reputable builder and take my engine and pretty much make it new again. Is that right? If so, could you give me an example of what a reputable builder might do? Thanks.

bottom end comes first...period..... any improvements to the top end of the motor i.e h/c/i is great to make power, but if the rods and pistons aren't capable of supportin the power due to their inferior "powdered" castings then it does you no good. the only reason I would do anything to the top end is if it needed it. go to www.modularmustangracing.com and you could get a shortblock with all forged internals (manley forged rods and pistons) a fresh 03/04 cobra block and new forged cobra crank. This is capable of supporting 900 hp easy and will take a world of abuse because it's built right. you can get that shortblock for $2700 and still have $3300 to work with for H/C/I. Then you end up with a fully built shortblock, port and polish your stock B heads and intake, and put a really nice N/A cam like crower or comp. You'd probably spend the 6 grand but there would be no weaknesses.

 

[97BlackSnake]

is that first short block any good?

 

[HouseOfPower]

sure if you're not running a big power added it's plenty strong. The only difference really between that and the 900 is the cast crank and the 900 offer slightly better rods. but if you were going N/A or power adder with low to medium boost then the 600 is perfect.

 

[audioqueso]

Well the top end is not the whole motor!!

Right. But I never said anything about just replacing the top end. I only mentioned "...better H/C/I, etc.." as an example. But if I buy a brand new Mach I motor, that IS the whole motor, right?

 

[audioqueso]

And thank you Blown Vert. Your response was very informative.

 

[Tabres]

But if I buy a brand new Mach I motor, that IS the whole motor, right?

Yes, it is everything. It's just like buying a crate engine.

 

[HouseOfPower]

Right. But I never said anything about just replacing the top end. I only mentioned "...better H/C/I, etc.." as an example. But if I buy a brand new Mach I motor, that IS the whole motor, right?

Keep in mind if you replace the cobra motor with a mach one motor you will most likely need to get a new ECU (computer) for the mach one, wiring harness, and many other accesories as most of the time when purchasing a motor those aren't included. That can get really pricey and be more hassle then it's worth. the platform you have in your cobra is an excellent candidate for rebuilding or replacing due to the fact you allready have everything you need in the car allready. Hence more money for things you want like porting or cams vs things you need like ECU's just to get a new setup running. Always plan on keeping about $1000 in reserve when taking something like this on for parts that you will need during the build up that you didn't plan ahead of time for. It always happens.

 

[Pro SNIVELER]

i think pretty much what theyre getting at is, for the 6k you spend on a Mach motor you could have a MUCH better aftermarket crate engine. fully forged,etc... VT, CHP, DSS are just a few reputable builders that can help you out. check out the market in the forums on nmra.com, theres a ton of engines and everything else for pretty low prices. the t-56 is a great tranny and SHOULD stand up to most anything you bolt it to. also when planning a FULL Mach swap in your 98, i would think youre going to need a ecu and MAYBE the wiring harness. someone please correct me if im wrong :shrug: theres another $6-700(minus labor) and a massive headache for those who arent good with wiring.

 

[Pro SNIVELER]

Keep in mind if you replace the cobra motor with a mach one motor you will most likely need to get a new ECU (computer) for the mach one, wiring harness, and many other accesories as most of the time when purchasing a motor those aren't included. That can get really pricey and be more hassle then it's worth. the platform you have in your cobra is an excellent candidate for rebuilding or replacing due to the fact you allready have everything you need in the car allready. Hence more money for things you want like porting or cams vs things you need like ECU's just to get a new setup running. Always plan on keeping about $1000 in reserve when taking something like this on for parts that you will need during the build up that you didn't plan ahead of time for. It always happens.

:lol: this site needs an "auto refresh", obviously i agree with you 100% :beer: