Yes for me. I don't try to go 10/10ths. 5/10ths maybe.
Ending up on the roof would kill me.
More like a Sunday drive where I don't have to worry about going to jail.
Jeff
Which rotors
- Thread starter Midnight_Cobra
- Start date
Yes for me. I don't try to go 10/10ths. 5/10ths maybe.
Ending up on the roof would kill me.
More like a Sunday drive where I don't have to worry about going to jail.
Jeff
Words of genius.
I think we've hashed this before, but take a serious look at how your car is used most. I road race with DTC-70 front and HP+ rears.
I have HP+ on the street Cobra, but they are almost overkill on the street. They will work for track days, but wear rotors pretty bad on the street and squeal when cold...as in day to day driving.
A real roadrace compound (just about anything Blue or better) never get hot enough on the street to be an advantage and REALLY wear rotors when cold. You may find they don't work as well as a HPS in city driving. I had trouble slowing the car in the paddock with the old HT-15 which were great on track.
Drilled may be ok if you can afford to swap to a new set every track day. I tried them on a time trials car I had and they lasted one weekend at Sebring. Never again.
We were talking on the FocalJet forum, sitting on the grid a couple of years ago at Road Atlanta, I looked around me at every thing from GT-1 and Cup Cars, to A/Sedan cars- plenty of fast cars. We were all club racers, but there were several $60,000+ cars out there. Not a one had anything but smooth rotors.
I have HP+ on the street Cobra, but they are almost overkill on the street. They will work for track days, but wear rotors pretty bad on the street and squeal when cold...as in day to day driving.
A real roadrace compound (just about anything Blue or better) never get hot enough on the street to be an advantage and REALLY wear rotors when cold. You may find they don't work as well as a HPS in city driving. I had trouble slowing the car in the paddock with the old HT-15 which were great on track.
Drilled may be ok if you can afford to swap to a new set every track day. I tried them on a time trials car I had and they lasted one weekend at Sebring. Never again.
We were talking on the FocalJet forum, sitting on the grid a couple of years ago at Road Atlanta, I looked around me at every thing from GT-1 and Cup Cars, to A/Sedan cars- plenty of fast cars. We were all club racers, but there were several $60,000+ cars out there. Not a one had anything but smooth rotors.
Well said.
The brake ducting and Brembo GT's are overkill for street use.
The stock Cobra brakes are almost perfect as a DD.
Jeff
Cool. There are times I should have exercised more restraint as well. :bash:
I use the HPS when driving the Cobra on the street and to the track, but have used HP+ on the track, before going to the Brembos.
True but those brakes have saved my ass more then once trying to avoid drivers from...
Never mind, I won't go there.
Some people have narrow vision.
So my Cobra front brakes squeak like hell (just driving down the road without braking, gets louder when I brake: *squeak-squeak-squeak-squeak...*, that kinda thing) and I think it has something to do with the rotors. I've tried using the anti-squeak stuff, but it works for about a day, then goes away. Pretty sure the problem is the caliper body rubbing on the caliper bracket, which would probably be caused by a warped rotor. Turning didn't help.
Anywho, should I just buy brembo replacements for $62/ea, or upgrade to the nice slotted DBA 4000 rotors for $150/ea? DBA also makes the sweet 2 piece 5000 series, but they are around $360 a piece and I don't think I'm quite ready for that upgrade.
Anywho, should I just buy brembo replacements for $62/ea, or upgrade to the nice slotted DBA 4000 rotors for $150/ea? DBA also makes the sweet 2 piece 5000 series, but they are around $360 a piece and I don't think I'm quite ready for that upgrade.
Brembo blanks for $62.
+1, you know what to spend the rest on. :bash:
Ditto
Plus get the seasoning of the rotors done with used pads. They need to be bedded in almost like pads do, you want to get the pad material transfer thing going evenly and smoothly.
No more turning rotors,
:nonono: just use them until they are done, and even then you may be able to use them to bed in new pads. If someone at the track cracks one badly, you may be able to save the day, and save them a tow.
New pads plus new rotor = PIA to bed in and just can not be done very quickly.
Plus get the seasoning of the rotors done with used pads. They need to be bedded in almost like pads do, you want to get the pad material transfer thing going evenly and smoothly.
No more turning rotors,
:nonono: just use them until they are done, and even then you may be able to use them to bed in new pads. If someone at the track cracks one badly, you may be able to save the day, and save them a tow.New pads plus new rotor = PIA to bed in and just can not be done very quickly.
Thanks for tip!! :rockon:
Learned all of this from experience last year. I now have stock Brembos from www.buyfordracing.com.
I just did the turning initially because it was a quick and cheap solution to see if it fixed my brake squeak. Hasn't gone away yet in about a year. Of course, the calipers and rotors were both used, as were the HPS pads I got. Maybe I should start buying new parts...
Brembo blanks with Carbotech XP10s and XP8s on our 99.
I did buy a set of Hawk Blacks off a guy this past Sunday at VIR when I used up the pads on the 01. I was very impressed with them on track for what they are... the wife didn't like the squeaking when I backed into the garage on Monday night though, LOL.
I did buy a set of Hawk Blacks off a guy this past Sunday at VIR when I used up the pads on the 01. I was very impressed with them on track for what they are... the wife didn't like the squeaking when I backed into the garage on Monday night though, LOL.
I bought a set of blacks HB111 years ago. Kinda a redheaded stepchild pad.
Too aggressive (you think they squeal, just wait till you see how fast they wear your rotors) for street and too wimpy for racing. I faded a set during a practice session at VIR years ago into 1. That's when I got the Blues (mo better, but not a HT-15).
Too aggressive (you think they squeal, just wait till you see how fast they wear your rotors) for street and too wimpy for racing. I faded a set during a practice session at VIR years ago into 1.
That's when I got the Blues (mo better, but not a HT-15).
I hear you, David. I blew the engine in my 99 last week and had to turn around and take our 01 at the last minute. I did not want to pull the setup off the 99 and put it on the 01. So, I went through all of the street pads I had available in my toolbox and I needed a set for lapping South Course on Monday. At $75 for a brand new set in the box, I couldn't turn it down considering I had no pads left.
LOL
I'm still not sure how I ended up with the Hawk blacks. I think they have 4 laps on them at VIR and I put them back in the box.
I'm still not sure how I ended up with the Hawk blacks. I think they have 4 laps on them at VIR and I put them back in the box.
I run the stock Galphers on the street. They suit me fine. On track even with ducts, I have obliterated: Hawk: HP+, Blues, HT-10's.. CTbrakes: XP10, 11, and 12, though 12's lasted the longest out of all of them. PFC 90's and 97's, and EBC Greens, and yellows..
This season I'm going to try Cobalt XR2's front and the GTS pad rear and see how it goes.
I do turn rotors, but the turned rotors are retired from track use and are street only after that.
This season I'm going to try Cobalt XR2's front and the GTS pad rear and see how it goes.
I do turn rotors, but the turned rotors are retired from track use and are street only after that.
Wow, Troy! We need to buy you a boat anchor.
Users who are viewing this thread
