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2011-2014 Mustangs
2011-2014 Mustang Talk
Whipple 2.9 Install
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<blockquote data-quote="bg302" data-source="post: 15541722" data-attributes="member: 183903"><p>[ATTACH=full]84131[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]84131[/ATTACH] Just finished the install of my 2.9 Whipple kit on my 2012 today and f[ATTACH=full]84132[/ATTACH] ired her up for the first time. Figured I'd do a write up for anyone thinking about doing this in the future. Install wasn't bad, took me 3 weekends working a few hours a day and double checking my work. First pic is after I removed the lower air dam, both front wheel well liners and front fascia. The fascia took me a bit to figure out but there are only two bolts up top and one bolt in each fenderwell. The sides snap out with a little force. Unplug the side markers and ambient air temp sensor. Next disconnect fuel injector wiring, EVAP solenoid, fuel supply line (pull fuel pump driver plug in trunk and start car until it dies), both PCV hoses and MAF sensor. Pull wiring harness mounts (3) from the rear of the intake manifold. Remove 8 bolts securing the intake manifold and lift the manifold up and out. Clean and tape the intake ports on the cylinder heads for now. You have to modify the knock sensors wiring harness and loosen and turn the sensors towards the block to make room for the Whipple manifold. There are some heater hose modifications that need to be made also along with installing new heater hose connectors in the block. Install the provided fuel injectors, fuel rails and hoses and intake o rings to the Whipple manifold. Remove previously installed tape, install manifold carefully. Torque manifold bolts. Install provided spark plugs gapped to .028". Install fittings on blower head unit and make sure o rings are seated properly on intake manifold. Install EVAP solenoid bracket and solenoid on head unit. Carefully set head unit down onto intake manifold and torque bolts. Assemble drive system. Whipple drive plate did not require me to grind my timing cover. Make sure all pulleys are torqued. Install provided belt. Make sure the provided tensioner is at about 75% of its travel when cold. This can be adjusted using the adjustable idler on the drivers side of the block. Assemble intercooler brackets and (in my case) fans/brackets. Slide cooler assembly up from the bottom of the bumper and secure to bumper bolts. Install intercooler pump/tank under the drivers side headlight using supplied hardware. Factory horn is relocated to this bracket also. Install all intercooler hoses making sure not to kink any of them. Run provided wiring harnesses from intercooler pump and fans up to fuse box. Main power attaches to the 12V lug on fuse box and relay control wire attaches to a fuse inside the box. Reattach any coolant hoses removed in earlier steps. Assemble the provided air intake system. Install wiring adapters for the IAT relocation. Install stock MAF sensor in new intake system. Fill radiator and intercooler system with anti freeze. After a lot of research, I found out that the Ford orange coolant is nothing more than Dexcool. Prestone has the premix Dexcool for $12 a gallon and on the back it states that it meets the Ford spec that our Coyotes call for in the manual. I used a vacuum purge/refill tool to fill my systems. Works great. I turned the key to run to fire up the pump/fans to check for leaks.</p><p>Now you can reassemble your fascia/fenderwells. I had to cut some material out of my fascia to get everything to clear the fans/cooler. Wasn't bad, just test fit and check as you go. Finally got everything to fit right. I ended up installing a Boss 320s grille as the stock one requires too much modification, fog lights have to go. I welcome the added airflow. Download whatever tune you have before you try to start the motor. It took my tuner 3 base tunes before I could keep her running. Install fuel pump voltage booster. I used the JMS unit specific to the 11-14 Mustangs. Start car and let her idle for awhile while listening and checking for leaks. Once you're comfortable up to this point, take her out for a drive. I drove easy because I'm on a base tune. Full dyno tune coming this week. Hopefully this helps other people out that are planning on this. Feel free to get a hold of me if you run into any snags.[ATTACH=full]84131[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bg302, post: 15541722, member: 183903"] [ATTACH=full]84131[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]84131[/ATTACH] Just finished the install of my 2.9 Whipple kit on my 2012 today and f[ATTACH=full]84132[/ATTACH] ired her up for the first time. Figured I'd do a write up for anyone thinking about doing this in the future. Install wasn't bad, took me 3 weekends working a few hours a day and double checking my work. First pic is after I removed the lower air dam, both front wheel well liners and front fascia. The fascia took me a bit to figure out but there are only two bolts up top and one bolt in each fenderwell. The sides snap out with a little force. Unplug the side markers and ambient air temp sensor. Next disconnect fuel injector wiring, EVAP solenoid, fuel supply line (pull fuel pump driver plug in trunk and start car until it dies), both PCV hoses and MAF sensor. Pull wiring harness mounts (3) from the rear of the intake manifold. Remove 8 bolts securing the intake manifold and lift the manifold up and out. Clean and tape the intake ports on the cylinder heads for now. You have to modify the knock sensors wiring harness and loosen and turn the sensors towards the block to make room for the Whipple manifold. There are some heater hose modifications that need to be made also along with installing new heater hose connectors in the block. Install the provided fuel injectors, fuel rails and hoses and intake o rings to the Whipple manifold. Remove previously installed tape, install manifold carefully. Torque manifold bolts. Install provided spark plugs gapped to .028". Install fittings on blower head unit and make sure o rings are seated properly on intake manifold. Install EVAP solenoid bracket and solenoid on head unit. Carefully set head unit down onto intake manifold and torque bolts. Assemble drive system. Whipple drive plate did not require me to grind my timing cover. Make sure all pulleys are torqued. Install provided belt. Make sure the provided tensioner is at about 75% of its travel when cold. This can be adjusted using the adjustable idler on the drivers side of the block. Assemble intercooler brackets and (in my case) fans/brackets. Slide cooler assembly up from the bottom of the bumper and secure to bumper bolts. Install intercooler pump/tank under the drivers side headlight using supplied hardware. Factory horn is relocated to this bracket also. Install all intercooler hoses making sure not to kink any of them. Run provided wiring harnesses from intercooler pump and fans up to fuse box. Main power attaches to the 12V lug on fuse box and relay control wire attaches to a fuse inside the box. Reattach any coolant hoses removed in earlier steps. Assemble the provided air intake system. Install wiring adapters for the IAT relocation. Install stock MAF sensor in new intake system. Fill radiator and intercooler system with anti freeze. After a lot of research, I found out that the Ford orange coolant is nothing more than Dexcool. Prestone has the premix Dexcool for $12 a gallon and on the back it states that it meets the Ford spec that our Coyotes call for in the manual. I used a vacuum purge/refill tool to fill my systems. Works great. I turned the key to run to fire up the pump/fans to check for leaks. Now you can reassemble your fascia/fenderwells. I had to cut some material out of my fascia to get everything to clear the fans/cooler. Wasn't bad, just test fit and check as you go. Finally got everything to fit right. I ended up installing a Boss 320s grille as the stock one requires too much modification, fog lights have to go. I welcome the added airflow. Download whatever tune you have before you try to start the motor. It took my tuner 3 base tunes before I could keep her running. Install fuel pump voltage booster. I used the JMS unit specific to the 11-14 Mustangs. Start car and let her idle for awhile while listening and checking for leaks. Once you're comfortable up to this point, take her out for a drive. I drove easy because I'm on a base tune. Full dyno tune coming this week. Hopefully this helps other people out that are planning on this. Feel free to get a hold of me if you run into any snags.[ATTACH=full]84131[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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