Who has Documented Data on Heat Exchanger, Intercooler resevior, and Killer Chiller

[MikesCobra]

Hey guys,
I am looking for the next mod on my cobra. Right now she has 2.76 pulley, tune, cat back, intake. I see many people have swapped heat exchangers, installed larger intercooler reseviors, and or even gone the lengths of Killer Chillers.

Has anyone found data showing the effectiveness of each of these upgrades on IAT's ? I have heard some say the heat exchanger and Intercooler resivoirs do NOTHING. But I have also heard the opposite. I have seen the killer chiller and how it works on dropping the intercooler liquid temp to almost freezing which is good, but what documented effect on performance has been captured on this?


Would it be beneficial for me to increase my intercooler liquid capacity with the LARGER Resivoir, the heat exchange with the AFCO heat exchanger AND THE KILLER CHILLER? Has anyone installed all three of these mods and what were the findings and results?

 

[cgarray17]

Well I have a KC and a large intercooler rez. I love it the rez gets nice and cold and it's not a performance mod but more a mod to keep the power as it helps keep heat soak away in normal and hard driving by keeping the coolent cold. Now with the killer chiller your best to keep the stock heat exchanger as the bigger the heat exchanger it will be counterproductive to the killer chiller because the coolent will be colder then the outside air and the heat exchanger will try to warm the coolent. So at killer chiller they recommend sometimes not running any heat exchanger for best results IF you're going to run your ac full time. I don't run ac full time so I keep my stock heat exchanger so the system runs like stock. With the KC on I see iats right around ambient air temp.

 

[MikesCobra]

Now with the killer chiller your best to keep the stock heat exchanger as the bigger the heat exchanger it will be counterproductive to the killer chiller because the coolent will be colder then the outside air and the heat exchanger will try to warm the coolent. So at killer chiller they recommend sometimes not running any heat exchanger for best results IF you're going to run your ac full time. I don't run ac full time so I keep my stock heat exchanger so the system runs like stock. With the KC on I see iats right around ambient air temp.

Theoretically wouldnt the stock less effecient heat exchange also try to warm the coolant back to ambient temp since the coolant will be below ambient tempt as it hits the heat exchanger?

If thats the case, would'nt the stock heat exchanger which is less efficient then the AFCO's allow more heat back into the coolant then say a more effiencent one like the AFCO would?

KILLER CHILLER aside. -Would I see cooling benefits of just doing the upgraded heat exchanger over the stocker?

 

[cgarray17]

Yes you would see better temps with just the afco. But because the afco is more efficient it would alow more heat back into the system then the stock because it's greater area trying to warm the cold water from the killerchiller

 

[MikesCobra]

So would the ideal setup be a KC and larger resivoir without the AFCO?

 

[cj428mach]

I think I've seen people say they have a 50 degree drop in IAT2 temps with the KC. I've always heard 10 degree drop on IAT = 1% more hp. That's a 5% increase in HP, or if you want to look at it as not losing 5% hp.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I was just watching my IAT2 today on lunch break running errands and what not. We are around 80F. After a while when car was heat soaked IAT1 was over a 100, mostly around 115F due to no heat shield and the air filter under hood sucking in all that hot radiator and engine heat. IAT2 was around 145 ~ 150 and when cruising on the highway IAT1 was around mid to low 90s and IAT2 was around 137F.

Compare that to guys running the KC in 80F weather and they're seeing IAT2 temps of around 90F I believe. Are you going to feel that seat of the pants? Is it worth that difference? I really couldn't tell you. When I first get my car out and I have IAT2 of 90 ~ 100 I can't really tell any difference when it's at 140 ~ 150. Maybe if I raced another car that didn't suffer from IAT2 temps I'd see the difference :shrug:

 

[black-plasma]

Killer Chiller made a big difference for me at the track. I already had an aftermarket h/e and reservoir but I ran consistent 10.4s all summer in MO heat last year and didn't have to worry about high iats pulling timing or buying a bunch of ice between rounds. I wouldn't run a twin screw w/o a killer chiller again.

 

[01Jes]

If done right the KC is by far one of the best mods. Insulate all lines, reservoir and utilize the bypass check valve for the HE. Use industrial ES12 refrigerant and you're winning! No more pulled timing and the engine is always swallowing cold air. Win win.

 

[2003cobra22]

I have the Killer Chiller, larger IC res., an larger IC pump and the way I have it setup is a bypass valve that allows me to bypass my H/E during summer months and use the H/E during winter time. Also check out using the more efficient Industrial 12a refrigerant with your AC system, its a direct replacement for R134a and works a lot better.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Anyone have parts of the KC they received when purchased? Specifically I'm interested in the accumulator part by the passenger's firewall. I have my fuel pressure regulator there, return fuel hoses, nitrous hoses and jets, and meth injection all in that spot. I can barely even see my accumulator and the thought of having to change it out sucks lol. But I'd consider it depending on what's involved.

 

[Bigc6428]

I think you only have to change the accumulator when installing the drag kit. I only had to change the line going to it from the condenser with the standard kit

 

[MalcolmV8]

I think you only have to change the accumulator when installing the drag kit. I only had to change the line going to it from the condenser with the standard kit

I've heard that too. I'd love to see what it looks like though to see if I can make it fit.

 

[whitedevil95]

Killer Chiller made a big difference for me at the track. I already had an aftermarket h/e and reservoir but I ran consistent 10.4s all summer in MO heat last year and didn't have to worry about high iats pulling timing or buying a bunch of ice between rounds. I wouldn't run a twin screw w/o a killer chiller again.

This is the main reason i just bought mine. It gets boring having to make a run or two. Pull over ice and let it cool for an hour and then go back in line. Buying ice sucks so does icing. Im hoping this can put and end to that for me.

What are you guys using to insulate your lines?? Anyone have links? Im doing my install in about two weeks.

 

[G04cobra]

Does the KC adversely affect the actual AC temps in the cabin? I already feel the AC unit itself is subpar imo, but then again its a convertible, maybe all the cold air leaks out or something.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Does the KC adversely affect the actual AC temps in the cabin? I already feel the AC unit itself is subpar imo, but then again its a convertible, maybe all the cold air leaks out or something.

From searching this forum and reading threads on killer chiller it seems the general consensus is yes the cabin cooling will be marginally affected. It makes sense because some of the cooling energy has to get used to cool the supercharger's intercooler fluid. However most seem to switch from the factory R134a refrigerant to an industrial refrigerant and cabin cooling comes back to near stock. Do a few searches and you'll see the threads.

 

[2003cobra22]

Does the KC adversely affect the actual AC temps in the cabin? I already feel the AC unit itself is subpar imo, but then again its a convertible, maybe all the cold air leaks out or something.

Really depends on were you live, Im in AZ so its gonna be getting hot soon. By adjusting your low side pressure to around 34-38psi on the AC system with the killer chiller my cabin temps are still cold on 100 degree day. Changing the refrigerant to Industrial 12a from the R134a really helps reduce temps 10-15 degrees both in IC fluids and cabin temps. Very important to insulate all your AC and IC lines for efficiency.

 

[weaselp1]

I've heard that too. I'd love to see what it looks like though to see if I can make it fit.

I have the drag kit and I did change out my accumulator....I think I have some pics of the install on my photobucket. I will look and see what I can find Malcolm

 

[weaselp1]

Here you go Malcolm! If you want more pics, let me know and I can just give you the photobucket album link. I took a bunch of pics when I installed the Killer Chiller with the drag pack. The blue wire in the pic is my power to the solenoid (that was mounted by my IC pump) that allows you to have in cabin cooling and IC cooling or just focus all of the refrigerant on the IC fluid.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[MalcolmV8]

Hey Mike shoot me the link if you don't mind. The pics are not showing up for me. Thanks man.