how much did you pay to get it resealed.
I needed to get this done so just wondering
I needed to get this done so just wondering
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who has had there diff cover leak
- Thread starter Michael Mendez
- Start date
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mines leaking at 18,000 miles... i ordered the LPW cover and Bruce's complete bushing kit so its gonna cost me a bit more than what you'll pay just to get resealed. I'd guess between $200-$400 depending where you take it and their level of experience with dropping that IRS
did it myself, i dont know what shops charge, but it can be done without dropping the irs. did 2 buddies cars same way. shouldnt be more than couple hrs labor
so it can be done without droping the diff
how much of a pain in the a$$ is it and if there is a write up on how to do it this way
how much of a pain in the a$$ is it and if there is a write up on how to do it this way
Not sure if there is a write up but I drop the housing as its just too tight and the two times I've done this the cover eventually leaked because of trying to get the cover on and mounted it just smeared all the goop. This is what I do:
• Remove rear wheels
• Remove cat back
• Remove four 12mm driveshaft bolts and suspend the driveshaft or remove
• Remove “E” clip from each side of the rear calipers
• Unbolt clip that clips to each side of lower rear control arm that holds e-brake cable
• Use pliers with flat headed screwdriver to remove end of parking brake cable to caliper. The first one you take off is a bit hard at times but not too bad. The second one will be easier
• Unbolt the caliper from its holding bracket and suspend caliper
• Using torx or believe 13mm socket remove both rear ABS sensors from IRS housing and support out of way
• Unbolt or remove wheel spacer if you’re using them
• Carefully remove rotor – it will pull right off by fishing out without removing the caliper bracket that’s bolted to rear spindle
• Remove rear tie rod end’s cotter pin, then nut and use tie rod tool to separate tie rod end from rear spindle – do this on both sides
• Mark the upper control arm to spindle cam bolts on both sides of car and remove– Important to mark as this is your alignment!
• Remove lower bolt control arm to spindle bolt both sides of car
• Now gently pry the half shaft from the rear diff just to unclip the clip (When axle is out you’ll see how its held into the rear with a circlip)
• You should have pried out the half shaft about ½” or so and carefully fish out the half shaft that will be still bolted to the spindle and remove from car as assembly – once again, do this on both sides of car
• The IRS diff. housing is now ready to unbolt finally! Make sure to get a jack or similar to prepare to support the assembly for removal.
• Remove two front diff. support bolts/nuts and spacers/bushings
• Unbolt front diff. support bar – only need to remove the nuts to be able to move bar back enough to slip out of car
• At this point you should be supporting the diff. with a jack or similar
• I use a 19 mm ratchet wrench to remove two bolts that hold the rear bushing bracket to the rear cover
• Fish out the housing
This is a great time to install a IRS brace or aftermarket cover as well as aftermarket diff. bushings.
Please let me know if I forgot something but I believe this to be accurate. We just did this to a friends less than 2 weeks ago to swap in a 3.73 diff I prepped. I can do this on the lift in 4 hours taking my time. Less with more help.
EDIT: Make sure to use the Ford diesel RTV in the caulk bottle or Ultra grey permatex (Have not used but many others here have had good luck with) to seal cover to diff. Otherwise you'll become very good at the above like me!
:beer:
• Remove rear wheels
• Remove cat back
• Remove four 12mm driveshaft bolts and suspend the driveshaft or remove
• Remove “E” clip from each side of the rear calipers
• Unbolt clip that clips to each side of lower rear control arm that holds e-brake cable
• Use pliers with flat headed screwdriver to remove end of parking brake cable to caliper. The first one you take off is a bit hard at times but not too bad. The second one will be easier
• Unbolt the caliper from its holding bracket and suspend caliper
• Using torx or believe 13mm socket remove both rear ABS sensors from IRS housing and support out of way
• Unbolt or remove wheel spacer if you’re using them
• Carefully remove rotor – it will pull right off by fishing out without removing the caliper bracket that’s bolted to rear spindle
• Remove rear tie rod end’s cotter pin, then nut and use tie rod tool to separate tie rod end from rear spindle – do this on both sides
• Mark the upper control arm to spindle cam bolts on both sides of car and remove– Important to mark as this is your alignment!
• Remove lower bolt control arm to spindle bolt both sides of car
• Now gently pry the half shaft from the rear diff just to unclip the clip (When axle is out you’ll see how its held into the rear with a circlip)
• You should have pried out the half shaft about ½” or so and carefully fish out the half shaft that will be still bolted to the spindle and remove from car as assembly – once again, do this on both sides of car
• The IRS diff. housing is now ready to unbolt finally! Make sure to get a jack or similar to prepare to support the assembly for removal.
• Remove two front diff. support bolts/nuts and spacers/bushings
• Unbolt front diff. support bar – only need to remove the nuts to be able to move bar back enough to slip out of car
• At this point you should be supporting the diff. with a jack or similar
• I use a 19 mm ratchet wrench to remove two bolts that hold the rear bushing bracket to the rear cover
• Fish out the housing
This is a great time to install a IRS brace or aftermarket cover as well as aftermarket diff. bushings.
Please let me know if I forgot something but I believe this to be accurate. We just did this to a friends less than 2 weeks ago to swap in a 3.73 diff I prepped. I can do this on the lift in 4 hours taking my time. Less with more help.
EDIT: Make sure to use the Ford diesel RTV in the caulk bottle or Ultra grey permatex (Have not used but many others here have had good luck with) to seal cover to diff. Otherwise you'll become very good at the above like me!
:beer:
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thanks for the help an info guys
I did this cover on mine and u will have to drop out the diff housing, it will b best and if its ur first time it will take most of the day.
+1 on doing it yourself. I have done both my cars and my brothers cobra. You just need to make sure you have the right tools to remove the halfshafts from the hubs and to remove the rear tierods. both can be rented from autozone.
If you remove the driveshaft, along with the front diff mounts and front torque brace you can push the differential housing far enough forward to remove the rear cover to reseal it.
This procedure does not require the removal of the halfshafts, knuckles or toe links.
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
This procedure does not require the removal of the halfshafts, knuckles or toe links.
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
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