Won't pass readiness emissions test

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In case anyone still cares, the car is STILL at the dealer. Injectors, plugs, coils, crank sensor, crank sensor harness, pcm, and maybe more that I don't recall have been replaced. They've had a Ford rep on sight for help. Now they want to replace the crank sensor wheel. How that goes bad by replacing the PCM I don't know. Car throws misfire code for cylinders 5/6 whenever rpms exceed 3000. Car runs well though, no sign of actual misfires. They've done compression test on all cylinders and they are fine. I've contacted Ford Customer Care and have stated that this needs to be resolved one way or another by the end of this week.
 

Shhhh

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This happened to me last year when I was still living out of state. I ended up getting another tune from Revan racing and putting everything but my 15# lower back to stock. It took about 1000 miles but it finally showed ready. I had to replace the battery this February and as of yesterday It failed the ready check because the Cats,O2 Heaters and O2s weren't ready. I don't drive the car much which Is probably my biggest issue but its all exactly like it was when I passed last year. I never did get around to throwing any of my mods back on since I've been busy with my '89 and moving back home. I was told yesterday that I need to keep it under 65 mph and drive another 50-100 miles to get the 02 and cats to read ready? Who knows but I'm about to take it out for a bit and try to swing by the emissions place tonight/tomorrow.
 
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merkyworks

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I was told yesterday that I need to keep it under 65 mph and drive another 50-100 miles to get the 02 and cats to read ready?

Maybe I have a problem but having to stay under 65 mph for a straight 50-100 miles would be absolute torture :eek:
 

Wingrider

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I recently had the Ford Racing 2.9 Whipple installed along with their tune, intake, etc. Before that the car had a pullied stock blower with Lund tune and I had to non-op the car for about 5 months before I could get the work done. My smog guy plugged some sort of box on the OBDII port and showed 4 of about 12-14 sensors not ready. He said drive it some more for like half a hour and come back. I drove the car from there to lunch then around the area on a couple freeways and went back later in the day and the little box showed all green check marks. He threw it on the smog machine by just plugging in the OBDII cable, then popped the hood for a quick look. I gave them the CARB number for the Ford Racing kit and 40 bucks later I was legally smogged. I was sweating bullets though thinking with all the mods before that it wouldn't pass. The car also has the 170 stat, C&R cooling, and a couple other things that could have been discussion points.

Now I have to get injectors and a BAP before I do a remote session with Lund to wake the car back up. I'm hoping to be able to swap back and forth a little easier every 2 years when smog rolls around.
 

Shhhh

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I guess I'll have to try out that drive cycle 17 step program. Put another 70 miles on it and the same 3 won't read ready. Oxygen Sensor, Oxygen Sensor Heater and Catalyst. It says I've driven the vehicle 225 miles since last codes cleared. Which I can only assume was when I put a new battery in it since I haven't had any scan tool hooked up to it in a year.
 

Wingrider

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I guess I'll have to try out that drive cycle 17 step program. Put another 70 miles on it and the same 3 won't read ready. Oxygen Sensor, Oxygen Sensor Heater and Catalyst. It says I've driven the vehicle 225 miles since last codes cleared. Which I can only assume was when I put a new battery in it since I haven't had any scan tool hooked up to it in a year.

Make sure you do a sustained drive to get the cats good and hot. I was sure my 10 mile drive on the freeway in 3rd gear would rest the cats temp sensors, but it didn't.
 

RedVenom48

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In case anyone still cares, the car is STILL at the dealer. Injectors, plugs, coils, crank sensor, crank sensor harness, pcm, and maybe more that I don't recall have been replaced. They've had a Ford rep on sight for help. Now they want to replace the crank sensor wheel. How that goes bad by replacing the PCM I don't know. Car throws misfire code for cylinders 5/6 whenever rpms exceed 3000. Car runs well though, no sign of actual misfires. They've done compression test on all cylinders and they are fine. I've contacted Ford Customer Care and have stated that this needs to be resolved one way or another by the end of this week.
My 2011 did the same thing. Completely stock when I purchased from Carmax with les than 15k miles on it. Would throw random multiple misfire codes and flashing CEL . When I would go to pull over, the codes and light would clear itself.

Was down for nearly 2 months at the Ford dealer. Same thing, Ford FTS on site to examine car. Data showed the car was misfiring even when idling perfectly. Ford FTS ordered a complete engine tear down. During removal of the balancer, tech noted that a washer was missing from the pulley. I believe it was either the friction washer behind the pulley or the washer behind the crank bolt.

Replaced and reassembled and *poof* like magic the car ran and has run flawlessly. The trigger wheel was sending a really weird signal to the PCM, which it interpreted as misfires. Likely was wiggling around due to insufficient clamping force.

Why yours shit the bed after a PCM swap, Im not too sure. Perhaps an updated calibration was in the new PCM that was much more sensitive to the data it was getting from all its input sensors.
 
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Just to close the book on this, the dealer finally "found" the problem, which was similar to Lexustech48's issue above. The problem was the balancer bolt was loose. I did have a overdrive balancer pulley on the car, however it was removed 2 years ago at 2k miles. Car now has 4500 miles. This is a torque to yield bolt that was installed properly 2 years ago, and there was never a problem with misfires until the car had been at the dealership for a few weeks. What I think really happened was someone there removed the balancer while troubleshooting and omitted to reinstall it properly. This caused the "new" misfire issue which coincided with the PCM swap which ended up being unrelated but mislead them for months since the timing made it seem like the cause. Anyway, car is back and running fine, the multi-thousand dollar bill was picked up by the warranty.
 

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