160 Thermostat?
- Thread starter NHRACobra
- Start date
ModsAway said:
I sent you a PM,
A lower thermostat in these cars on its own is a waste of money IMHO. There are certainly improvements that can be made to the cooling system to lower operating temperatures, but a thermostat on its own is not going to accomplish this. 25 years ago when cars had gigantic radiators and much more cooling capacity, the thermostat was able to dictate temperature much easier. Today's cars with smaller cooling systems designed to operate efficiently under low sloping hood lines, the capacity is going to have to be increased before the thermostat can mandate operating temperature. Without changing capacity and increasing radiator size (at least cooling surface area), regardless of the thermostat, the car is gonna run at the temperature it wants to. The thermostat in these cars is just dictating the temperature when coolant flow to the radiator begins, certainly not the temperature of the coolant passing through the engine at operating temperature.
I have the "supporting" or more important cooling mods all ready to go, I am trying to get more info on a thermostat being beneficial or not.
Any truth to the stock thermostat not being fully open until its above 210 degrees? If it does not open until 200+ degree wouldn't this be decreasing the benefits of a better HE & radiator?
Any truth to the stock thermostat not being fully open until its above 210 degrees? If it does not open until 200+ degree wouldn't this be decreasing the benefits of a better HE & radiator?
Thermostats are kind of a primitive design, but should certainly be fully open within 10 degrees of their rated temperature. If not, it should be replaced.
ModsAway said:
I think 210 is just when the fans come on in the stock tune.
jim
With the primary cause of detonation in these engines being end gasses that combust due to lack of heat dissipation, I can see why this has become a heated subject. No pun intended. 
I think the best answer is to upgrade the radiator. :shrug:. The engine was designed to run at the temps that it come from the factory with. As long as your engine is able to keep it's self within those parameters you should be fine. If it can't then it most likely has nothing to do with the T-stat unless it is faulty or broken. Upgrading the radiator will still keep the engine temps the same with the stock T-stat, but when the T-stat opens it will allow the engine to cool back down from it's hottest point much quicker.
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Good information Evil04Cobra. What is your automotive background? A larger radiator makes perfect sense due to the added coolant being able to absorb and dissipate heat more quickly, but not necessarily more efficiently. By adding a larger radiator you are adding more surface area. Does that sound correct?
Thanks Hissman... I am doing the HE, radiator, reservoir, and will adjust my fans on setting as well when I program for the 2.76.
Do you recommend a 170? I was going to buy JDM's 170 degree thermostat as some have said a 160 may be too aggressive/cold.
Do you recommend a 170? I was going to buy JDM's 170 degree thermostat as some have said a 160 may be too aggressive/cold.
Awsome thread... waiting for more great info.
My street experience says No.
When I had my old poncho 428 I found the best combo was a 180F-190F Stat, 4 Core Desert Cooler, and 1800-2500CFM via electrics for low flow situations (traffic). I tried the 160 and it was no good.
You don't know real overheating problems until you've dealt with the old Pontiac blocks.
The Cobra just needed the fan settings adjusted just like my Z06 did (stock Z06 program kept it around 210-220 in traffic ouch!).
When it comes time to change the fluid, change the stat with a new model but same temp.
My suggestion for those in need of more cooling is to get a BIGGER RADIATOR.
When I had my old poncho 428 I found the best combo was a 180F-190F Stat, 4 Core Desert Cooler, and 1800-2500CFM via electrics for low flow situations (traffic). I tried the 160 and it was no good.
You don't know real overheating problems until you've dealt with the old Pontiac blocks.
The Cobra just needed the fan settings adjusted just like my Z06 did (stock Z06 program kept it around 210-220 in traffic ouch!).
When it comes time to change the fluid, change the stat with a new model but same temp.
My suggestion for those in need of more cooling is to get a BIGGER RADIATOR.
I voted for the lower temp Tstat, but not as a stand-alone mod. I run a Fluidyne radiator, Evans waterless coolant, 160 degree tstat, lower fan temp settings, electric water pump, the Apten cooling mod and a temp sender between 7&8 in the block.
I can make 22# of boost and wanted ALL the cooling capacity I could get.
The mod on it's way is a Hydro chiller for the HE circuit. More to follow.
I can make 22# of boost and wanted ALL the cooling capacity I could get.
The mod on it's way is a Hydro chiller for the HE circuit. More to follow.
On the temp gauge I see the thermostat open about 180 degrees then the temp stays about 195 when in traffic. I don't remember what the stock temps were.
I ordered the remote thermostat housing today from Evans. They say that the flow problem with the stock setup is due to too much fluid bypassing the radiator all the time. This should make more of a difference as it warms up in the summer.
I ordered the remote thermostat housing today from Evans. They say that the flow problem with the stock setup is due to too much fluid bypassing the radiator all the time. This should make more of a difference as it warms up in the summer.
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