Here is a picture of the backside of the spring assembly, you can see the center of the pin, but it is hard to determine if it goes through 2 fixed points in the pedal bracket or it simply snaps into place.
clutch pedal "soft" and hangs after a wot pull
- Thread starter 13GT500SG
- Start date
My car does the exact same thing. Fml
13GT500SG,
Thanks for the help. Finally got it squared away.
Here is another post that may be helpful.
2011 5.0L Clutch Pedal Issue Fix
Thanks for the help. Finally got it squared away.
Here is another post that may be helpful.
2011 5.0L Clutch Pedal Issue Fix
get those LT's and stop choking your car before you run those loudmouth vette owners again ok skippy??? :lol1:
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I just got mu upper and lower control arms on and my shifter along with bmr lower rad support and removed front sway bar. Out of money at the moment lol but i want to get a 15% in place of my 10. Then eventually clutch and headers. After that if i get beat ill spray the brakes off this thing ahahah
I thought I would add a couple of more pictures.
2013 GT500 Clutch Pedal Assist Spring Detail
2013 GT500 Clutch Pedal Assist Spring Detail
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I have less than 1000 miles on my 13 and it seems every other take off with the clutch is different. Sometimes I get it right and sometimes it is like a noob. ...., so tell me, without the assist spring does it feel like a clutch should be? With the spring, the let out is not linear, I think that is what I mean, and pedal effort changes depending on where you are with the assist spring. Are you glad it is out, is it more controllable? I am about to crawl under there and take a look. thanks for any input.
On my boss 302, removing the spring definitely gave a more confidence inspiring and consistent linear feel. Pedal effort increased a bit, but I liked it more as it was way too soft before anyway.
I just got back from a test run and I think it was worth the effort. If you don't like the feel, it can be easily reversed.
I was having the same problem that your are experiencing with the clutch pedal feel. After removing the spring, the clutch pressure is more linear and predictable.
If you can manage to get in a position to see under the dash, it should take you no more than 10 minutes to get the spring removed. I was able to do it with one hand.
I was having the same problem that your are experiencing with the clutch pedal feel. After removing the spring, the clutch pressure is more linear and predictable.
If you can manage to get in a position to see under the dash, it should take you no more than 10 minutes to get the spring removed. I was able to do it with one hand.
Thanks for the replys. Your descriptions sound like what I want. I took a look and other than being in an awkward position do not see a problem. Hope to get it done tomorrow, but may not be able to test drive for a few days, bad weather.
thanks again
thanks again
I might have to remove the spring. No issues with hanging but i would prefer a more consistent feel
I haven't driven the new Gt500 yet as I'm still waiting for mine. I'm trading in my 370z for the gt500 & on the Z the clutch spring was too stong and didn't provide a consistent feel. One member on the 370z forum actually made new springs for members that were not as strong and gave a linear feel.
I was able to remove the spring without actually getting into the car. I knelt next to the seat and ran the seat all the way back and then stuck my head under the dash. I located all the key components that I needed to get my hands on in order to setup and remove the spring.
You will need the following:
6" Flat blade screw driver 1/4"
Light and a cloth for the floor, just in case the greasy spring assembly falls on floor.
Note: There are 2 switches that are activated by the clutch pedal movement. The top switch with the red cap is the one you need to remove, this switch (Cruise Control Release Switch) is the for the cruise control. The bottom all black switch (Clutch Pedal Position Switch) is the starter switch, (DO NOT REMOVE) this switch.
Once you have a visual layout of the project, you can pull your head out from under the dash and reach your right hand under the dash and find the cruise control release switch, grab the switch body (Do Not Grab Electrical Connector) with your fingers push down and twist it counterclockwise (towards the passenger seat) until it stops turning, about 45-60 degrees. Lift the switch out of the hole and lay it down on the top of the bracket. Make sure the plunger does not stick down in the hole or you will be buying a new switch.
Next step is to remove the retaining clip on the clutch pedal linkage. You will have to get your right arm and upper body part way under the dash. Locate the clip and work the screw driver tip under the piece of the clip that crosses the top of the end of the shaft. Lift up the end of the clip and slide it half way across the end of the shaft. Don't let it pop off or you may be in for a long hunt for the missing clip. Remove the screw driver and grab the clip with your fingers and slide it off the end of the shaft.
Now push the master cylinder rod end to the end of the shaft, when it gets to the end of the shaft, rotate the rod end 90 degrees and it will disengage from the shaft.
Once the master cylinder is clear of the pedal shaft, place your cloth on the carpet and then pull the clutch pedal towards you and the seat. Keep pulling it until the spring drops out.
Now slide the white plastic piece off the pedal shaft. Then remove the top black plastic piece. Do not try to remove the pin, the black plastic piece will come out of the upper mount with the pin in place.
Now all you have to is reverse the procedure, minus the spring installation, and the job is done.
Reattach the master cylinder rod by rotating the end onto the pedal shaft, push it onto the shaft and install the retaining clip.
When you reinstall the cruise control switch, drop the plunger into the hole and position the body so electrical connector is pointing about 80-90 degrees to the right, towards the passenger seat. Push down on the switch and rotate it slowly to the left (clockwise) until it stops. You will hear it click into place. If positioned properly, the wire will be pointing backwards toward the rear of the car.
Clean up and the job is done.
Test drive the car and make sure you test the cruise control for proper operation. If you managed not to damage the switch, the cruise control should disengage when you press on the clutch pedal.
Enjoy the new clutch.
Before
I have circled the 3 parts that need to be removed. The cruise control switch, the M/C rod clip and clutch assist spring assembly. The clip and switch need to be reinstalled. Do Not Remove the starter switch.
After
Here is a photo that gives a better view of the clip that secures the m/c rod.
Here is another picture courtesy of Norton
You will need the following:
6" Flat blade screw driver 1/4"
Light and a cloth for the floor, just in case the greasy spring assembly falls on floor.
Note: There are 2 switches that are activated by the clutch pedal movement. The top switch with the red cap is the one you need to remove, this switch (Cruise Control Release Switch) is the for the cruise control. The bottom all black switch (Clutch Pedal Position Switch) is the starter switch, (DO NOT REMOVE) this switch.
Once you have a visual layout of the project, you can pull your head out from under the dash and reach your right hand under the dash and find the cruise control release switch, grab the switch body (Do Not Grab Electrical Connector) with your fingers push down and twist it counterclockwise (towards the passenger seat) until it stops turning, about 45-60 degrees. Lift the switch out of the hole and lay it down on the top of the bracket. Make sure the plunger does not stick down in the hole or you will be buying a new switch.
Next step is to remove the retaining clip on the clutch pedal linkage. You will have to get your right arm and upper body part way under the dash. Locate the clip and work the screw driver tip under the piece of the clip that crosses the top of the end of the shaft. Lift up the end of the clip and slide it half way across the end of the shaft. Don't let it pop off or you may be in for a long hunt for the missing clip. Remove the screw driver and grab the clip with your fingers and slide it off the end of the shaft.
Now push the master cylinder rod end to the end of the shaft, when it gets to the end of the shaft, rotate the rod end 90 degrees and it will disengage from the shaft.
Once the master cylinder is clear of the pedal shaft, place your cloth on the carpet and then pull the clutch pedal towards you and the seat. Keep pulling it until the spring drops out.
Now slide the white plastic piece off the pedal shaft. Then remove the top black plastic piece. Do not try to remove the pin, the black plastic piece will come out of the upper mount with the pin in place.
Now all you have to is reverse the procedure, minus the spring installation, and the job is done.
Reattach the master cylinder rod by rotating the end onto the pedal shaft, push it onto the shaft and install the retaining clip.
When you reinstall the cruise control switch, drop the plunger into the hole and position the body so electrical connector is pointing about 80-90 degrees to the right, towards the passenger seat. Push down on the switch and rotate it slowly to the left (clockwise) until it stops. You will hear it click into place. If positioned properly, the wire will be pointing backwards toward the rear of the car.
Clean up and the job is done.
Test drive the car and make sure you test the cruise control for proper operation. If you managed not to damage the switch, the cruise control should disengage when you press on the clutch pedal.
Enjoy the new clutch.
Before
I have circled the 3 parts that need to be removed. The cruise control switch, the M/C rod clip and clutch assist spring assembly. The clip and switch need to be reinstalled. Do Not Remove the starter switch.
After
Here is a photo that gives a better view of the clip that secures the m/c rod.
Here is another picture courtesy of Norton
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Now I'm a happy camper. :beer: Since new, the clutch engagement point has been inconsistent. It just plain sucked. Not much fun in stop and go driving.
After removing the spring. Wow. No more feathering the clutch to find the engagement point. Great pedal feedback.
Now I actually look like I can drive a stick..;-)
I barely notice the increase in pedal effort.
Snoopy great directions. BTW pretty pigtails on your safety wire job. Looks like aircraft experience somewhere past or present.
After removing the spring. Wow. No more feathering the clutch to find the engagement point. Great pedal feedback.
Now I actually look like I can drive a stick..;-)
I barely notice the increase in pedal effort.
Snoopy great directions. BTW pretty pigtails on your safety wire job. Looks like aircraft experience somewhere past or present.
Snoop missed his calling, he should write instructions for owners manuals.
Great write-up and pics. Invaluable to me, when I do mine today.
Thanks also to the other write up with the better methods of removing the switch and spring.
Real good info from both.
What is the gray box on the left with the made in China logo?
Great write-up and pics. Invaluable to me, when I do mine today.
Thanks also to the other write up with the better methods of removing the switch and spring.
Real good info from both.
What is the gray box on the left with the made in China logo?
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subscribing, thanks snoop
-J
-J
It is done. Very uncomfortable position. I am not as dexterious as snoop and have to see what I am doing. I put on one of those headband lamps and went to it. Everything is just like snoop described. I hit a few questionable points, but had no issues. On the switch, hold the complete switch and do push down with some effort. The plunger stayed with the switch and came out good. The clip, just as described. The master cyl plunger takes a little effort to roll off the pin. I cheated and used the screwdriver to help roll it off. If you are kissing the clutch pedal, watch for it to rise up. It should not do any bodily damage, but if your hand is on it, you should be good. With the pedal raised the spring will fall on the rag as stated. The white mount easily slides off the post. The black mount, pin and all, just lifts out of a groove. I was trying to get the pin out, when I moved it up and off it came. Things go back easier, since you get a feel for the effort required to make things happen. I put the spring assembly in a zip lock bag and stored it in the trunk. I cleaned up the tools, jumped in, adjusted the seat and felt the clutch. My first mod and am definitely pleased, great clutch feel. I cannot wait for the weather to clear and get some seat time.
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