Cooling Mods?? What is the best??

[SVT-NAV]

well your car is pretty fine stock (not considerring the famous head cooling mod)....The question is why/what are your reasons for wanting MORE COOLING? Heat is a by product of power so the more HP you make the more heat is coming with it.

Reason I want the most cooling within a decent budget, is because I'm planning on keeping my ported eaton setup. Heatons are known to heatsoak, so I just want my car to live a nice long and cool life lol. When theres too much heat in the engine, things tend to go wrong IMO

 

[SVT-NAV]

Still nothing on the Venom coolers? lol

 

[racebronco2]

Reason I want the most cooling within a decent budget, is because I'm planning on keeping my ported eaton setup. Heatons are known to heatsoak, so I just want my car to live a nice long and cool life lol. When theres too much heat in the engine, things tend to go wrong IMO

That's exactly why you need a real heat extractor hood. The several types of vent covers will allow more heat out in traffic but will do nothing when the car is in motion. I tried running with the vents removed and it did nothing for engine temps on track.

 

[BlueSnake01]

Would anyone recommend drilling the stock thermostat? Im in need of getting a different hood but a simple mod like this should see a HUGE difference especially since I have the stock 01 Cobra bumper and hood.

 

[jojomofo21]

+1 for the killer chiller. Just do it and be done. Positively love mine, in muggy summertime heat it's priceless.


Sent from my iPhone while I should be working.

 

[01cobravortech]

Reason I want the most cooling within a decent budget, is because I'm planning on keeping my ported eaton setup. Heatons are known to heatsoak, so I just want my car to live a nice long and cool life lol. When theres too much heat in the engine, things tend to go wrong IMO

I can tell you I beat the crap out of my port in the summer and winter and while yes the KC is a proven mod, I personally think its overkill for the street. I can understand the KC's purpose for the track and even road racing but not so much for a street car that gets miles put on it.

A port itself lowers the IAT2s substantially. I think there is a lot of fear mongering out there when it comes to the Eaton and the concerns regarding longevity.

Reische 170F t-stat is the way to go. Much more effective than drilling a stock 180F that doesn't even completely open until 219F. I personally saw much lower temps with the Resiche as opposed to drilling 3 holes in my stocker.

 

[01cobravortech]

Because a 180-185 stat in the upper hose will run similar temps to that of the 170 stat in the lower hose.

I have done extensive testing on this topic.When you have XXX degree stat in the lower hose, you will let XXX degree coolant into the engine, then you are relying on the engine itself to actually control what temp it decides to run at.

This is why the temp you read from your coolant temp sensors on the crossover tube coming out of the engine, are always higher than the stat temp. If you get a chance, go get your car up to full operating temp, then datalog a full 1/4+ pull, ensure you make a full 4th gear pull. You will notice a drastic raise in temp.

If you put the stat in the upper hose, whatever rating the stat is....it opens at....in turn, your engine will only get as hot as the stat rating.

Simple, very.....yet kind of hard to explain at 7:30 AM.

When you have a chance please post a pic of how you set up your t-stat in the upper hose. Would love to see your setup. :beer:

 

[racebronco2]

+1 for the killer chiller. Just do it and be done. Positively love mine, in muggy summertime heat it's priceless.


Sent from my iPhone while I should be working.

It does nothing for engine temps, in fact it will increase engine temps in the heat of the summer. The stock ecu pulls timing when the ait2's go over 100* and engine temps go over 200*.

 

[racebronco2]

A port itself lowers the IAT2s substantially. I think there is a lot of fear mongering out there when it comes to the Eaton and the concerns regarding longevity.

I would like to see proof of this. I used to have a stage 5 with the tq plate. The stock blower would run a little longer than the ported blower probably due to the engine temps rising. 420rwhp compared to the 470rwhp. With more hp comes more engine heat and if you can't cool the engine off the ait2's will rise just from the engine temps alone. I datalogged this years ago and it's in the open track forum. If your on the dyno i could see it but not on the street or the track. On the dyno your at wot 5-10 seconds but on the street the ait2's are already over 100* and once you do a 2-4 gear pull the ait's go up not only from the blower compressing the air but from engine temps too which takes about 20-30 seconds. If you do multiply runs it will not have any time to recover.

When i did the mile event i datalogged one run. The ait2's would be peak right after i shifted, then they would start to come down slightly, rise again right after i shifted etc.

Don't get me started on the twin screws run cooler than a ported blower. I have never ran as high ait2's as i did with the whipple at 15psi.

 

[Silver95]

For the very few that decide to leave these cars bone stock(or dangerously close to it) is the factory cooling sufficient?

 

[nextime]

Yes it is sufficient.

For the very few that decide to leave these cars bone stock(or dangerously close to it) is the factory cooling sufficient?

 

[racebronco2]

For the very few that decide to leave these cars bone stock(or dangerously close to it) is the factory cooling sufficient?

It depends on your enviroment and how you use your car. For 90% of the people have no problems. The 10% of us whom drag race or open track the stock system needs up-grading.

 

[spyder1337]

Killer chiller, 170* and fan settings on my past two cobras and I've had super luck with them. Anyone that is speaking about a killer chiller and hasn't had one, don't, your opinion is useless.

Simple fact, I live in Florida, middle of summer Ac cranked and crusing : stop and go traffic ect stay 170-180 and iat's 2 never go over 105 and this is in 90's ambient temps... Both cars. Nothing else will do this minus ice at the track... Which is an option for street use... No.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Because a 180-185 stat in the upper hose will run similar temps to that of the 170 stat in the lower hose.

I seriously doubt that... maybe if you're running the wrong kind of thermostat in the stock location- which used to be pretty common before I started producing thermostats for these cars.

Unfortunate to see people still talking about ditching the stock thermostat setup for an upper hose thermostat. I can see no benefit to this only detriment because then you have to let the bypass run wide open all the time and the thermostat can only regulate flow through the rad. It's really a step back to the old school days when thermostats had no bypass control element.

Drilling thermostats... really? :bash: Maybe when there is no other option. Why suffer significantly increased warm up times and poor cold weather performance when you can get a proper low temp thermostat?

The heat extractor hood looks like a great mod to get the temps down and also I've only heard good things about the Killer Chiller systems.

 

[ModularSpeed]

When you have a chance please post a pic of how you set up your t-stat in the upper hose. Would love to see your setup. :beer:

Unfortunate to see people still talking about doing ditching the stock thermostat setup for an upper hose thermostat. I can see no benefit to this only detriment because then you have to let the bypass run wide open all the time and the thermostat can only regulate flow through the rad. It's really a step back to the old school days when thermostats had no bypass control element.

Drilling thermostats... really? :bash: Maybe when there is no other option. Why suffer significantly increased warm up times and poor cold weather performance when you can get a proper Reische low temp thermostat?

The heat extractor hood looks like a great mod to get the temps down and also I've only heard good things about the Killer Chiller systems.

For the average person, I agree 100%. For the average 650+HP combo, OR 75+% "race" car.....there is no comparison between the factory style and the upper stat style. I am not a fan of having a stat "post" radiator, sorry. I like to have a stat that sees the coolant coming from the hot engine, to regulate the temp.

When you say: It's really a step back to the old school days when thermostats had no bypass control element.

Are you saying that any car that does not have a bypass system similar to an 03-04 Cobra/Mach is an old school set-up?

You seem to be a cooling guru, may I ask, why did Ford go back to placing the thermostat in the upper hose on all 2005+ Mustangs?

 

[raym5_0]

personally I would put a KC on any water cooled intercooler system that will be used primarily on the street......I aggree the AC running is adding load creating additional heat to the engine coolant....but dropping IC fluid to 40* is a no brainer....I never see engine temps over 200*, or IAT2s over 120*...and thats pushing 20psi boost through a whipple.

mods in sig

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

there is no comparison between the factory style and the upper stat style.

No comparison eh? I sure would like to see some test data to back that up. There have been many over the years who tried running an inline upper hose setup at the open track who ultimately came back to the forum looking for something else because it didn't help. In fact I would be willing to put the reputation of my company on the line that an OEM setup running my thermostat will run cooler under any condition than the setup you've pictured with a 180*.

I like to have a stat that sees the coolant coming from the hot engine, to regulate the temp.

In either setup the thermostat is bathed in hot coolant that has been circulated through the engine, otherwise the thermostat could not work properly.

When you say: It's really a step back to the old school days when thermostats had no bypass control element. Are you saying that any car that does not have a bypass system similar to an 03-04 Cobra/Mach is an old school set-up?

No. I meant something like an old small block Ford/Chevy setup. In those the thermostat does not control bypass flow- only coolant through the radiator.

why did Ford go back to placing the thermostat in the upper hose on all 2005+ Mustangs?

You are misinformed. Ford has never used an inline upper hose thermostat on any vehicle that I'm aware of but I can't be 100% sure obviously. The 05-06' Mustang GT uses a remote cold-side thermostat housing that's very similar to the 03-04' Cobra setup and even uses the same thermostat. In 2007 they switched back to a hot-side setup for the 3V which puts the thermostat in the crossover to regulate the bypass flow. Why? I can't really be certain but I'm guessing there are less parts so it's therefore cheaper.

FWIW - All GT500s use a hot-side remote setup, which seems to perform very well... even at substantially below OEM regulated temps. On the new 5.0L, Ford designed a cold-side setup that attaches to the water pump which does not require the expense/complication of a remote housing and additional hoses.

Personally I don't think it matters on which side of the radiator you control the flow from but controlling or not controlling the bypass will make a difference. The weakest point in the 4.6L DOHC cooling system is, and always has been, airflow. Get more air through the radiator and out the engine compartment and you'll see results.

 

[ModularSpeed]

lol

 

[Svt Fox]

Has any one proven, definitively that the cylinder head cooling mod actually provides a benefit? I have yet to see actual conclusive proof of its benefit.

 

[MysticRob]

...I also have the even flow head cooling mod. Not sure if I'm a believer in it as I have two friend who beat the hell out of their car and have ZERO cooling mods with no issues. Oddly enough, I'm pretty convinced that the head cooling mod is mostly hype.

Has any one proven, definitively that the cylinder head cooling mod actually provides a benefit? I have yet to see actual conclusive proof of its benefit.

Add me to this list of head-scratchers. I might trust a highly accurate infrared thermometer gauge reading prior to, and after, the mod, so how exactly has this mod been proven to reduce temps on that portion of the head?