Yeah, I see your point now, thanks. I guess it was the higher tensile, and yield I was thinking of, not the stiffness (which in this application is the thing that matters).
Difference in Subframe Connectors?
- Thread starter 3Laser3
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Yeah, I see your point now, thanks. I guess it was the higher tensile, and yield I was thinking of, not the stiffness (which in this application is the thing that matters).
Have you checked into the Western Motorsports subframes? it's the BIG one used up here, and what I have on my car. I'm extremely impressed with them, it made a night and day difference with the car.
I would like to know where this Global West are Chrome Molly info came from?
I do not remember seeing that when I bought mine and am not seeing that when I look online now.
1994-07 Mustang
I wish I could afford to do a Carlos version of my car w/ a BOSS motor and some serious weight reduction, but no chance, too much money. My car is a pretty long ways from being a full on race car however, even though it is fairly fast for what it is. I am using stock(cut) springs and shocks and stock front lowers with some MM goodies here and there and Delrin in the rear.
Coil over cars with the full monty MM suspension, on the same tires as me are significantly faster.
#539 will likely become my fun street car and I am looking at N/A S197 cars for a more serious and lower over all cot to use track car
I do not remember seeing that when I bought mine and am not seeing that when I look online now.
1994-07 Mustang
I wish I could afford to do a Carlos version of my car w/ a BOSS motor and some serious weight reduction, but no chance, too much money. My car is a pretty long ways from being a full on race car however, even though it is fairly fast for what it is. I am using stock(cut) springs and shocks and stock front lowers with some MM goodies here and there and Delrin in the rear.
Coil over cars with the full monty MM suspension, on the same tires as me are significantly faster.
#539 will likely become my fun street car and I am looking at N/A S197 cars for a more serious and lower over all cot to use track car
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Question on subframes... The other day when my alternator died and left me stranded I was going to have it towed to the dealer. A flatbed truck came out and could not pull my coupe onto the flatbed. Apparently my MM FLSFC cover the slots on th chassis they use to hook up, since there aren't any other tow points. Can anyone verify this or was the tow truck driver a complete tool?
Why couldn't they hook onto the K?
I dunno. I have the K-Member brace, but I don't think it would have impeded the tool. I figured th dude was just....a dumbass. He tried to hook inside the front fender wells which would've bend lines behind my HE.
Before we added the SFCs to my car, I wasn't sure either which one was best for me. Everyone gave me a different conflicting opinion. Some had good evidence to back it up, some not.
I am aware that SFCs and a cage are the best, and I think most would agree. Stiffest structually from an engineering standpoint, and the safest. But for this car I didn't want to put in a cage at the time, just a good set of SFC to make it as rigid as possible. In retrospect, for my safety, we should have went ahead with the cage also. Guess I'll just have to keep it under 160.
So since I only wanted to do this once, I did a hands on comparison comparing style, design, weight, wall thickness, and metalurgy to come up with a combo that was best for me. I was lucky enough to have two other knowledgable gentleman review the specimens and specs with me and their input greatly helped. I guess what I'm saying is check out all your options before you pull the trigger. This is the most important overall mod to the car. And if you are not happy, you are probably not going to cut them out and replace them.
I am aware that SFCs and a cage are the best, and I think most would agree. Stiffest structually from an engineering standpoint, and the safest. But for this car I didn't want to put in a cage at the time, just a good set of SFC to make it as rigid as possible. In retrospect, for my safety, we should have went ahead with the cage also. Guess I'll just have to keep it under 160.
So since I only wanted to do this once, I did a hands on comparison comparing style, design, weight, wall thickness, and metalurgy to come up with a combo that was best for me. I was lucky enough to have two other knowledgable gentleman review the specimens and specs with me and their input greatly helped. I guess what I'm saying is check out all your options before you pull the trigger. This is the most important overall mod to the car. And if you are not happy, you are probably not going to cut them out and replace them.
Before we added the SFCs to my car, I wasn't sure either which one was best for me. Everyone gave me a different conflicting opinion. Some had good evidence to back it up, some not.
I am aware that SFCs and a cage are the best, and I think most would agree. Stiffest structually from an engineering standpoint, and the safest. But for this car I didn't want to put in a cage at the time, just a good set of SFC to make it as rigid as possible. In retrospect, for my safety, we should have went ahead with the cage also. Guess I'll just have to keep it under 160.
So since I only wanted to do this once, I did a hands on comparison comparing style, design, weight, wall thickness, and metalurgy to come up with a combo that was best for me. I was lucky enough to have two other knowledgable gentleman review the specimens and specs with me and their input greatly helped. I guess what I'm saying is check out all your options before you pull the trigger. This is the most important overall mod to the car. And if you are not happy, you are probably not going to cut them out and replace them.
Doc:
That's some good advice right there! :-D
People used the think the Fox platform had a lot of shake, rattle and roll to it. Which it did.
The SN-95 platform is actually more rigid BUT............... horsepower levels were DRAMATICALLY increased particularly with the Terminator model. These increased power levels require increased chassis rigidity to maintain control of the suspension and ultimately your vehicle.
A simple FLSFC can and does work for a majority of people
............that have coupes with moderate power levels. I would call a moderate power level below 475 RWHP. For higher power levels, see vert owner info below.
If you are a vert owner, I like to refer to these as "special needs vehicles". Even at moderate levels of RWHP you need a lot of additional help stiffening up your chassis. For these types of vehicles, you need not only the FLSFC, but you need a good matrix system to go with it as well. The matrix system utilizes the jacking rail to incorporate a second attachment point at the rocker panel for increased mass and leverage in stiffening the chassis. And jacking rails make it a lot easier to jack your car and support it with jackstands. For a vert you may even want to consider a 'through the floor' SFC for the ultimate in rigidity.
So I suggest you do your research and do it well. Like Doc said, you most likely won't be ripping your subframe connectors out of the car after they are installed if you are not happy with them, so do your homework before!
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
Whats block welded? Are you saying that you actually connected the lowers with the uppers with some kind of spacer block?
I plan to go with some Griggs SFC, but may go with some different lowers, as the Griggs lowers doesn't look to give as much support as some of the others. Still I'm sure that it still stiffens it up pretty damn good as in floor SFC's provide more rigidity than lower SFC's.
For the vert. kenny brown hands down thats what im running.
I have gone from a coupe to a vert, and just had the Maximum Motorsports FLSFCs (powdercoated) installed w/ the "extra" Steeda pieces around the torque box. I think it was $30 for the 2 Steeda pieces. I would just go with the bare Steeda if i had to do over again and used the same $0.99 Home Depot rattle can of flat black that was sprayed on after the welding to paint the connectors.
I used to think my coupe ran on rails and have had a hard time dealing with the inherent flex of the vert, but I will say that w/ the welded FLSFCs it rides like a different car and is a 80% improvement as far as squeaks/rattles and flexing. It is a DD and will probably never eclipse 500 rwp, and will likely end up in the 450-470 range. I wonder how much a 3 pt strut tower brace would add to the stiffness on the vert and would it be worth the trouble.
I used to think my coupe ran on rails and have had a hard time dealing with the inherent flex of the vert, but I will say that w/ the welded FLSFCs it rides like a different car and is a 80% improvement as far as squeaks/rattles and flexing. It is a DD and will probably never eclipse 500 rwp, and will likely end up in the 450-470 range. I wonder how much a 3 pt strut tower brace would add to the stiffness on the vert and would it be worth the trouble.
You want to stiffen up your vert more you need to start thinking roll cage/bar.
Even just a 4 point roll bar should stiffen your chassis up quite a good bit and wouldn't interfere with the people in the front. I have a 8 point roll bar in my new Foxbody which is just a roller at the moment.
yeah, i know. I went w/ a CDC light bar for looks vs function, so it goes.
As I recall there were a set of Kenny Browns that protruded into the back seat area and was a pain in the ass if you has passengers back there. I don't know if he has started making them again since he started his business back up.
As far as your comment goes about the being all that and a bag of chips, they are very good but there are others that are just as good. I used MM FLSFCs on my vert with a "matrix mod" that I had custom made (pics in my sig) and I like them so much that I had them make another set for my 95 coupe. I would stack those against Kenny's any day of the week.
The new Stifflers FIT system is suppose to work very well as is there Spider Brace/Lower Chassis Brace.
http://buystifflers.com/FITSystem1994-2004Mustang.aspx
Spider Brace 99-04 Mustang
Lower Chassis Brace 96-04 Mustang
http://buystifflers.com/FITSystem1994-2004Mustang.aspx
Spider Brace 99-04 Mustang
Lower Chassis Brace 96-04 Mustang
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The MM FLSFC's are monsters. I belive they are a bit taller and stiffer than the Steeda's, but not 100% sure on that.
Have always been very happy with MM products even going way back to Fox body days.
Have always been very happy with MM products even going way back to Fox body days.
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