FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500

[Ry_Trapp0]

as usual tob, great write up! being a big fan of off-roading, it's certainly nothing out of the ordinary to see some minor modifications necessary of either parts or the vehicle to make a new part fit. the blower looks great under the hood, nice to see that you went with a whipple over the TVS too.
after reading this write up, it makes me wonder how the 3.4l fits, and it REALLY makes me wonder how in the hell the 4.0l fits! LOL

 

[kyl]

Mr. Lund recommends .28-.30 I gapped mine at .29

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Tob,

Thanks for diving into this with another great write up and Pics. I also have the 2.9L on my list and you have made it a lot easier to see what is involved with everything.

Lucky for you, the fuel pump install SHOULD be fairly easy. They are right under the rear seat bench.

You wouldn't happen to have a FRPP Strut Tower Brace laying around to check for fitment would you? epper:

Looking forward to the rest, and the RESULTS. :rockon:

 

[SicShelby09]

Great write up so far TOB. You are a brave one sir.

 

[ctozzi]

That blower looks beautiful under the hood. Best of luck with the rest of the install !

 

[sfadchi]

Great write up, I'm glad mine helped you somewhat.

FYI: The smaller bolt for the fuel rail was my idea!!! Too bad they didn't make it small enough.

 

[GT50008]

Why not install the fuel rail first? Then the SC.

 

[Templar]

Excellent write up!!! Thanks for taking the time to document your install.

 

[Willie2]

Why not install the fuel rail first? Then the SC.

because thats not how the directions tell us to do it. lol. thats not a bad idea. seems like it should work.

 

[Tob]

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Y'all definitely know how to motivate.

I appreciate the spark plug numbers that everyone has used as well. I did get through to Whipple today regarding their recommendation. I spoke to Michael on the tech line. His answer was that FRPP recommends .025" for this kit, and that the figure listed in the directions is not a mistake. I wonder if the smaller gap has to do with emissions testing (for their test vehicle submissions to obtain EO certification)?

Ry, I wonder how the heck the bigger kits fit too, but they do!

Chris, your 2.9 experiences have proven to be invaluable. It really helped to be able to zoom in on some of your photos for a clear view when I wasn't certain what the instructions were trying to portray.

Why not install the fuel rail first? Then the SC.

Excellent question. I considered that as well. Problem is, if you do, you will severely limit the available room under the inlet - thus making the rearmost blower bolt all but impossible to tighten. You need all the room you can get at the back of the blower.


I'm happy to report that my ProCal tuner and tune came today. This was a big part of my decision to go with this kit. As I mentioned before, I really like the way FRPP handles their ProCal inclusive kits. Seeing it in action for the second time definitely bolsters my approval that much more. Two business days after login and registering my kit through FRPP's website, a tune specific to my vehicle was at my doorstep.

Contents include the tuner and cable ( very well packed and protected for shipment)...

A few pages of easy to follow instructions...

A memory card programmed with the tune that fits inside the tuner...

And yet another EO sticker.

For those that have never seen how FRPP does it, you simply peel back the blue rubber at the base of the tuner, exposing a small slot

Fit the card upright with the angled end to the right and push it in until it clicks.

Roll the rubber back and the tune is ready to be loaded when I'm (finally) ready.

More when I can.

Tob

 

[Colleton]

Great write-up, thanks Tob!

 

[RSH427R]

Like others have said...great write up.:thumbsup: I am also surprised and a little disappointed with the fitment issues. With today's technology you would think they could engineer it to fit without a 2x4 and a hammer.:nonono:

 

[Steve@BAS]

Tob, when you spoke to whipple did you ask why you had to fit into your car with 2x4 and hammer? Did others with 2.9 need to do the same?

Also when you say that the procal comes with a custom tune for you, what exactly do you get to tell them? Did you say other mods?

Thanks for the great pictures and write up.

 

[Tob]

I look at it this way.

The blower knows not what car it will ultimately reside in, an '07-'09, '10, or a '11 model. Each has its own set of requirements. The hardware itself is absolutely first rate, and I truly mean that. Threads are perfectly cut, surface finish is without blemish, the machine work all runs true, supporting pieces are all there (my CAI block off is in the mail!), FRPP developed a perfectly safe and matching tune, and the kit has been thoroughly tested and given FRPP's stamp of approval.

As far as minor fitment "issues" consider the number of systems that are being modified - air, fuel, spark, with not only hardware but software as well. If you want to up the power level you need to be able to move some serious air, which ironically necessitates the biggest impediment. So it is not unexpected. For me, shortening a bolt is minor. The block of wood was my choice - I wasn't comfortable with the clearance (or lack thereof) that I saw but that isn't to say that others don't have the issue. Trust me, the big players in this install went on and fit like the pieces that were removed. There hasn't been anything that Whipple supplied that made me wince or cringe and I'm extremely anal about mods. Just because a part received approval from FRPP doesn't mean I'm OK with it.

But in this case I absolutely give it a thumbs up.:thumbsup:

On edit...

Tob, when you spoke to whipple did you ask why you had to fit into your car with 2x4 and hammer? Did others with 2.9 need to do the same?

The clearance method was my choice and I'm sure there are other, more refined methods. After reading your question a few minutes ago, I revisited a portion of the directions I skipped over because it has bold type that mentions 2011 models only. I honestly never read the notes until just now. Crazy, but my 2009 is very 2011 like.

Here are the notes...

34. (2011 models only) In some applications, the bypass actuator may need to be adjusted, to adjust loosen the 2 button head allen bolts and move away from firewall. Actuator needs a light amount of preload into the actuator. Re-tighten button head allen bolts and torque to 20 ft/lbs.

35. (2011 models only) In some applications, the SC system will hit the firewall. In this case, you will need to slide the engine forward. Loosen all bolts for the front suspension K-member and transmission. Slide forward, and check the SC clearance. Once install is done the vehicle needs to be aligned.

36. (2011 models only) Remove steel harness protector at the rear since it will not clear the motor. Locate the EGR wiring harness, pull from the plastic loom so the wires have more access to the new location of the EGR valve.

I can't help it if my car mimics a '11. I wish I would have read the notes for years that don't pertain to mine as they definitely offer quite a bit of insight. It also tells me that Whipple has done the development work on Ford's latest.

On 2nd edit...I went out and looked at the bypass. Referencing this photo from page 1 of this write up, look closely at the bypass bracket and the requisite slots at both the bottom and top button head allen bolts.

While the top is in most all the way, there is still a little room to swing the bottom in, which may have provided "enough" clearance. It would have swung the plastic body downward a bit and may have offered a better fit. But Whipple does mention keeping a light amount of preload in the valve, so I'm unsure as to how far you could move it. That said, I'm still fine with two blows to the firewall and a lipstick touchup. I prefer too much room. But this definitely sheds light on the fact that there is some adjustment there.

Tob

 

[Ry_Trapp0]

well apparently ford put the wrong body panels on your shelby, tob:lol:

 

[Willie2]

i think simply sliding the engine forward and getting the car aligned is alot easier than the 2x4 method, lol

 

[Wingrider]

i think simply sliding the engine forward and getting the car aligned is alot easier than the 2x4 method, lol

I'm sorry, but both options seem to freak me out at the prospect.

No pain- no gain I guess.

 

[Ry_Trapp0]

i think simply sliding the engine forward and getting the car aligned is alot easier than the 2x4 method, lol

depends where your coming from here, i think the 2x4 method would be physically easier and require less work, but i'm sure the k-member sliding would be mentally easier for most:lol:

I'm sorry, but both options seem to freak me out at the prospect.

No pain- no gain I guess.

it's all part of doing major mods man:rockon:

 

[Wingrider]

depends where your coming from here, i think the 2x4 method would be physically easier and require less work, but i'm sure the k-member sliding would be mentally easier for most:lol:

it's all part of doing major mods man:rockon:

I guess the idea of detonating the motor is also a reality for heavy mod work so banging the firewall isn't quite the horror I first thought.

 

[tktlwyr]

I had an issue where the bypass valve moved on my Whipple, which I can only attribute to the clearance because I didn't loosen the valve from the bracket.

This is a good idea, Tob!

It created a nightmare tuning problem with a part throttle stumble in the 1,500-2,500 RPM range.