FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500

[RedlineHP]

Tob, If I do this kit, I'll definitely owe you a beer for all the insight on this install :beer:
I have a TVS and this is a little more involved than that. But like you, now that FRPP has done a kit & tune, maybe...
Can I barrow your custom 2x4?

 

[me32]

very good write up. an wow the gap is really small .25 on the plugs. also what do the new fuel pumps looks like. i think this is the way to go over the BAP for my TVS setup

 

[Illtaketwlight]

I'm sure the pumps are Walbro GSS 342's..

 

[Tob]

I had an issue where the bypass valve moved on my Whipple, which I can only attribute to the clearance because I didn't loosen the valve from the bracket.

This is a good idea, Tob!

It created a nightmare tuning problem with a part throttle stumble in the 1,500-2,500 RPM range.

Now that's what I want to hear. I feel much more comfortable knowing that clearance at that juncture is no longer an issue. The longevity of the engine is far more important than any "dimple" at a segment of the firewall that isn't able to be seen.

How did you finally figure out that it was the bypass?

Tob, If I do this kit, I'll definitely owe you a beer for all the insight on this install :beer:
I have a TVS and this is a little more involved than that. But like you, now that FRPP has done a kit & tune, maybe...
Can I borrow your custom 2x4?

You certainly have the right attitude. If you make the jump and need any help you can pm me whenever you need.

Sorry I can't add another update. I'm really busy with work and by the time I finally get home - I'm shot. I like to have a clear and fresh mind when working on the car, so I'll get to the pump, plugs, etc, as soon as I'm able.

Tob

 

[tktlwyr]

Now that's what I want to hear. I feel much more comfortable knowing that clearance at that juncture is no longer an issue. The longevity of the engine is far more important than any "dimple" at a segment of the firewall that isn't able to be seen.

How did you finally figure out that it was the bypass?

The tuner figured it out after tweaking it the car for two weeks thinking it was related to the L&M throttle body.

Onto the next problem now: the part-throttle boost flutter at lower RPMs.

For the record, my Whipple experience has been nothing short of a nightmare: missing parts, missing hardware and install problems. The only thing keeping me going has been that the blower and CAI were a gift and the car makes great power...645/596 on a Mustang Dyno in South Florida.

 

[Tob]

Was this the FRPP/Whipple kit or a Whipple blower with a third party tune?


Anyhow, I made it through a few more portions of the install, if you will.

This was the first time I've changed plugs on a mod motor, let alone a DOHC one. I'm impressed with the factory covers and the rubber seal they use

I wonder if these would physically fit a Boss 429 engine

They look to be at a similar depth from what I remember. They are down there!

Gapped as directed by Whipple

Concerned about such a small gap, Jack Hidley of Maximum Motorsports responded with this...

Tob,

The voltage requirement to make a spark across a gap is directly proportional to the gap distance and inversely proportional to the gas pressure. If you increase the precombustion pressure by a factor of two (14.7psi of intake pressure), you need to double the spark voltage from the coil to get a spark with the same reliability. There are too many problems with doing that, so the easier thing to do is to reduce the gap distance.

Paschen's law - HvWiki

The stock plugs in my car measured ~ .043" consistently.

I dabbed some moly paste on the threads and torqued to spec. Kind of odd how the plug boot fits over the tip of the plug, compared to the Windsor motors I'm so used to anyway.

Plugs done, I finally got to peel the tape off of the blower inlet

Looking into the vast chasm that is now the blower side end of my intake tract, I realize that all the tricky hardware was worth it. This thing is mammoth!

Finally, I got to bolt on the throttle body

I then bolted on the 2010/2011 intake and slipped in the tube that runs to the throttle body. Interesting how short of the forward sheet metal it is versus the FRPP CAI I had in there was.

When I get the plug from Whipple for the CAI housing I'll add it as well.

The entire system fits very well.

I'm left with the pump install and then the upload of the new tune. I cannot wait to turn the key...

Tob

 

[Ry_Trapp0]

how is the clearance on the CAI? you said you were concerned about it earlier. looks awesome!!! LOVE the look of whipples.

 

[me32]

Was this the FRPP/Whipple kit or a Whipple blower with a third party tune?


Anyhow, I made it through a few more portions of the install, if you will.

This was the first time I've changed plugs on a mod motor, let alone a DOHC one. I'm impressed with the factory covers and the rubber seal they use

I wonder if these would physically fit a Boss 429 engine

They look to be at a similar depth from what I remember. They are down there!

Gapped as directed by Whipple

Concerned about such a small gap, Jack Hidley of Maximum Motorsports responded with this...



Paschen's law - HvWiki

The stock plugs in my car measured ~ .043" consistently.

I dabbed some moly paste on the threads and torqued to spec. Kind of odd how the plug boot fits over the tip of the plug, compared to the Windsor motors I'm so used to anyway.

Plugs done, I finally got to peel the tape off of the blower inlet

Looking into the vast chasm that is now the blower side end of my intake tract, I realize that all the tricky hardware was worth it. This thing is mammoth!

Finally, I got to bolt on the throttle body

I then bolted on the 2010/2011 intake and slipped in the tube that runs to the throttle body. Interesting how short of the forward sheet metal it is versus the FRPP CAI I had in there was.

When I get the plug from Whipple for the CAI housing I'll add it as well.

The entire system fits very well.

I'm left with the pump install and then the upload of the new tune. I cannot wait to turn the key...

Tob

looks great man, thanks for this awsome write up

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Tob,

You don't have a Ford Racing Strut Tower Brace do you?

 

[Tob]

how is the clearance on the CAI? you said you were concerned about it earlier. looks awesome!!! LOVE the look of whipples.

Note the clearance at the spark plug "cover" atop the valve cover, about 1/4"

I had to pull up the intake tube while tightening all the clamps in order to gain what looks to be adequate clearance. We'll have to see if it'll stay that way or if it is enough for any engine movement. I'll say this - the Whipple intake tract fitment is perfect aside from that one spot with tight clearance.

Tob,

You don't have a Ford Racing Strut Tower Brace do you?

I don't. I should have measured the dimension between the top of the stock blower and the underside of the stock brace. I could then have done the same with the Whipple in place. That would have given you the data needed as far as minimum available clearance. My bad.

Tob

 

[03 DSG Snake]

I don't. I should have measured the dimension between the top of the stock blower and the underside of the stock brace. I could then have done the same with the Whipple in place. That would have given you the data needed as far as minimum available clearance. My bad.

Tob

I still love you.

I hear a lot of 'should' fit and spacer answers. I haven't seen it installed yet on the net that I could find.

I do love my KR brace.

 

[Tob]

Today was going to be the day to finish up this project. The day to turn the key and unlock the door and hopefully, get to see the other side.

THE PUMP

I had this funny feeling that this portion of the install might be a bit of, let me say, a challenge. So let's dive in headfirst, shall we?

To access the in-tank fuel pump you need to first extricate the rear seat from the vehicle. Simply push in at the base of the seat on each side, lift, and toss.

The pump is located in the tank beneath a large rubber plug, on the driver side of the vehicle.

Carefully peel back and set aside the plug. Disconnect the harness and the fuel line connector. Be ready to capture any residual fuel in the line, as a small amount will undoubtedly leak out.

Just like it has been done for years on Ford vehicles, a brass punch (or fuel tank lock ring wrench) and a SFH, and you are a few taps from releasing the pump.

At this point I have to mention the difficulty in getting the pump out. It is very difficult. Rotating the pump, squeezing certain parts , carefully tipping the assembly each way...I'm telling you, it is a downright bitch. In addition, you have to manage to disconnect the fuel cross-over tube quick connect coupling from the pump - with only an inch or two of pump slipped out and up. Once released it disappears inside (but atop) the tank. In case I forget to mention it later, yeah, it was a bitch connecting it when I put the new assembly back in. No shots, as I was concerned about an explosion from the camera flash as the fumes from the tank are plentiful, to say the least.

Once out, I placed the original GT500 pump assembly (on left) next to the unit supplied with this kit.

This is where I'm going to ask those of you that are considering this kit to grab a snack, put your glasses on, and pull up a seat. There is a lot of detail within these assemblies. First up, note the pump length and how it is retained along with connector configuration on the OE pump.

Now the kit pump (pay attention to the pivot point of the float arm and notice how much it clears the pump harness connector and store for future use).

For those of you that might be considering a simple pump swap/upgrade, study the plastic housing around the top of each pump assembly...

I'm not so sure that these same Walbro pumps could be adapted to the '07-'09 plastic pump body.

Anyway, 2010 owners can simply install the new pump at this point and move on. Not so fast for 2007-2009 GT500 owners. No, you must take the difficult path each and every time.epper:

To begin, the fuel level sensor that comes on the new pump must be replaced with your original sensor (thanks Ford for changing them!). Note where the yellow wire enters the '07-'09 sensor (at the bottom).

The 2010 sensor has the wire entering at the top (they are soldered at opposite ends of the float swing arc inside the sensor).

So you need to disassemble each and swap sensors. Remove a small screw at the bottom of the stamped tin bracket, cut off the requisite zip tie, split the heat shrink (carefully) and disconnect the snap in connector beneath.

If you were to study the sensor location onto each bracket very carefully, you'd note that they aren't in the exact same location - again, thanks Ford!

There you have it. A now, as directed, complete assembly - that has a fuel level sensor float arm that binds upon the electrical connector for one of the larger pumps and holds the float up. Not what you want unless running out of gas is your thing.:fm:

The interference point...

More improvising skills to pull from my ass.

I studied the connector, the harness that goes into it, the float arm - everything. I determined that shaving the corner off the plug would work. The portion I intended to trim had no effect on the ability of the harness/pump connectors to interface or remain connected, so I shaved it with a fresh razor knife.

I also tweaked the stamped bracket by bending it in towards the pump ever so slightly.

 

[Tob]

Look carefully at the stamped bracket and you can see where I had to "adjust" in order for it to clear the upper black portion of the pump body (the right pump body that is).

Slipping the float sensor and assembly back onto the pump body, I now have clearance.

I could now bolt the pump back together and hit the heat shrink (that Whipple forgot to include, glad I had some in my tool box) with some warmth...

Zip tie as original (Whipple forgot the tie as well, no biggie)

There you have it. A custom hybrid fuel pump assembly for a '07-'09 GT500!

Be wary of the rubber plugs falling out of the bottom of the pump assembly. They come out rather easily. They rest on the tank bottom when the pump is installed.

I hope someone from Ford/Whipple that has any influence on this kit has had the opportunity to follow along. I think it fair to say that the content of the kit could use some adjustment. I also understand that if FRPP doesn't get any feedback, they may never have the opportunity to change anything. Consider this entire thread (including closing comments) as feedback.

Pump now assembled, I got to wrestle it back into the tank. Insert with loving care and reverse the removal procedure.

Finally. Hardware installed and ready for the Procal software update to the PCM. Just follow the directions. Make sure your battery is fully charged and trouble code free. Plugged in an loading, here are a few of the screens during the upload...

Tune loaded, blower bolted on, I walked around the car to inspect the work done. I wanted to be sure nothing was forgotten. I also spent a moment putting away some parts that may never again reside in my GT500.

Say thee farewell, trusted strut tower brace. Mr Whipple doesn't want your company. Ergo, you can kiss any thoughts of the FRPP brace goodbye as well.

IN CONCLUSION

Wait! We aren't done yet.

I sat back behind the driver seat and took in a deep breath of fresh air and turned the key. The system cranked for about six or seven seconds...


And came to life like a modern day Frankenstein!! The engine was idling at around 900 rpm's for a minute or two. I got out to stare. I could smell the new parts baking off their freshness, like a loaf of Italian bread fresh out of the oven. The car adjusted itself and idled down a bit. I waved off to the wife, with her knowing what I was leaving to do. With an 800lb Gorilla on crack under the bonnet, I pointed a Taser at his ass with my right foot and pulled the trigger.

Gentleman, the install is a success. Forget the traction control - I think it all but gave up. This car is what I thought I would be getting when I first bought it. It is now a car to be afraid of. Exactly what I was hoping for. Waiting for an FRPP tune/kit was the right move. The tune is perfect. In fact, I dare say it is smoother than stock, devoid of hiccup. It is as smooth as Grandma's Buick.

Until you mash the pedal, at which point the engine growls with a much heightened sense of authority, this thing is as relaxed as a sleeping baby. It is by far the baddest ass muscle car I have ever heard, no doubt in part thanks to the H-pipe I added some time ago. All the extra time spent making sure everything was done right was worth it. Minor glitches aside, I have to thank Whipple and FRPP for making this kit a reality. So guys, armed with what you now know, don't be afraid to make the leap yourselves. It is that good.

Tob

 

[Shaker1]

Let me be the first to say congrats and thanks for the insights, as well. I anxiously await the write up on your clutch install! LOL

I wonder if there is a measurement that can be taken to determine which cars will need the cross member moved (or firewall adjusted)?

Also, is it possible that on some fuel pumps the position of the pump dictates whether the float interferes? Hence FRPP did not observe that particular issue?

 

[me32]

congrats big time. an i really hope they get the fuel pump fixed for the 07-09 GT500s cause that would be a great swap for my TVS setup

 

[Templar]

Thanks again for your efforts! Very informative thread.

 

[Starkie]

One of the best write-ups ever posted, awesome. Im sold, boooya!

Starkie

 

[Tob]

Let me be the first to say congrats and thanks for the insights, as well. I anxiously await the write up on your clutch install! LOL

I wonder if there is a measurement that can be taken to determine which cars will need the cross member moved (or firewall adjusted)?

Also, is it possible that on some fuel pumps the position of the pump dictates whether the float interferes? Hence FRPP did not observe that particular issue?

Since high rpm clutch dumps aren't really my thing, I suspect my clutch may last a day or two longer than most.;-)

As to moving any crossmember, yikes. For me anyway, the moment you start compromising the suspension settings in order to fit a bigger blower, you've taken the wrong path. Unless full gonzo drag racing is your bag. I can see some minor adjustments at the K-member to body attachment points, but that's about it. I think '07-'10 GT500 owners actually have it pretty good in this regard. It is 2011 GT500 vehicles that pose a bigger challenge. I suspect some issue might lie in the fact that '11 vehicles have an insulated firewall, making clearances much tighter. Here's a shot from the driver side of a '11 - looking at the rear valve cover/firewall area. Note the insulation.

If I had a '11 I'd consider carefully trimming the insulation at the rear of the blower as opposed to trying to move the K-member forward.

As to the FRPP pump, I don't see how FRPP missed that one. If you could rotate the pumps, even slightly, you could avoid interference. Problem is, you can't. It would be nice if they addressed the minor fitment issue, as there are a few very simple changes they could make in order for it work out of the box. I think the issue here is economies of scale, with pump sale volume not being great enough for a cost effective alteration. Again, I hope someone from FRPP sees this and takes action.

congrats big time. an i really hope they get the fuel pump fixed for the 07-09 GT500s cause that would be a great swap for my TVS setup

FRPP has been releasing a flurry of blower kits at what seems to be all at once. Historically, FRPP has made parts tweaks after releasing individual parts or complete kits. Let's hope that is the case here as well. But until then at least you now know what it takes to make things work.

Tob

On edit...

One consideration that I never mentioned - to switch float sensor brackets. That may very well have alleviated the clearance issue. I thought about it for a moment and turned the bracket around to study how the sensor attaches to it. I fiddled with the interference fit "connection" snaps for a few moments and changed my mind. Looking back, this may very well have been the change that would have eliminated any connector trimming. I'm not 100% sure, but I would like it if someone else that ends up with one of these pumps gives it a shot. Something FRPP should look into.

 

[Steve@BAS]

How does the whipple s/c whine compare with the eaton?

 

[nolyaw]

I know it would be throwing more money on the fire, but using a FORE fuel hat would alleviate all fuel pump install issues.

Great writeup. This will for sure go down in the archives, people will be referencing this thread for years to come. :thumbsup: