MY BOSS 50 MOTOR BUILD / with updates

[SlowSVT]

i was wondering about road courses been under boost all the time, how the motors would do?
get a killer chiller i got one .i think thats the ticket to cool intake temps

what you going to do about your motor? did it mess that bore up? i got 7 good stock pistons and a block

I'm sure Jimmy can que you into that. Road Racing is pretty punishing to ah...............:idea: EVERYTHING!

No big boost over a long period. Do that and the motor gets replaced along with the rotors :nonono:

The Boss block would be excellent in this application despite the fact it's a "boat anchor" (161 lbs). I would hate to see what it would do to a Teksid over time :uh oh:

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

i was wondering about road courses been under boost all the time, how the motors would do?
get a killer chiller i got one .i think thats the ticket to cool intake temps

what you going to do about your motor? did it mess that bore up? i got 7 good stock pistons and a block

Serious usage of these cars at open track events, mile events, or salt flats events where sustained WOT is the norm brings with it a whole boat load of issues that must be addressed before pushing on.

Open track usage without watching temps very closely, even on stock boost is...
OK let's just say risky and expensive.

I started out stock and it got hot fairly fast.
As I got faster as a driver it got hot even faster.
I did some cooling mods and gauges and that helped... a lot.
I did a low boost twin screw and some more cooling mods and a road race oil pan when I moved to DOT slicks.

The engine still sounds just like when it was new and runs like a raped ape. If it starts to get too hot I back out and let it cool down. The temp has to be watched.

Oh BTW I have run nothing but Royal Purple in it since 2500 miles, I am pretty confident in the oil I am using.

EDIT: DONE..

 

[cobra=trouble]

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[DevilSun]

The twin screw at low boost and re-worked stock hood or Tiger Hood are my next big purchases once I get my car back and running. I'm doing lots of cooling work along with the engine install, but can't really finish it fully at this point (i.e. better hood venting and lower temp twin screw) but I'm definitely doing lots in regards to oil/coolant/gauges etc.

Man you're a mechanic machine! Keep at it guy :beer:

 

[cobra=trouble]

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[SlowSVT]

3.27's

Why? :??:

It's not like this car needs more gear. That will load and stress the engine and driveline more.

 

[cobra=trouble]

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[98 Saleen Cobra]

^^ mother of god!!! that thing sounded sooo crazy awesome!!

 

[SlowSVT]

cause with my nitto r s i got to run cause i might be on vaction and get caught in the rain, my car now just spins into 3rd. i need something to bog the motor down some. hang on i will find you this video

YouTube - LTHL VNM Exhaust video

Your Boss motor will put you right back there with 3.27's

I admit it's not a big leap but those gears will put a little more stress on the driveline...........better fuel mileage though. :uh oh: Utt oh, I just said a bad word in this crowd. At 80 your engine is going to be chugging away at 2200 RPM's

 

[cobra=trouble]

D

 

[SlowSVT]

i'am wondering if i will be in the drone zone then at 80 ?

EDIT> I LOVE HP AND MPG'S

Some people think getting 12 miles to the gallon is "cool" :bash:

Real men drive gas guzzlers :coolman:

In my old 340 Dodge Challenger I could see the gas guage move and hated it :cuss:

I love it when people point out my V8 Mustang is not eco friendly until I point out my Subaru Outback turbo gets the same gas mileage. The look on their face is priceless

 

[cobra=trouble]

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[haskett]

NEED HELP i sen some where ? the ARP PN# for the side mains bolts for a boss 50 block?

on the manley stock rods i want the 2000 bolts,on lethals site they got 2 different sets?
also what ARP head studs are people using? the 8740 or the 2000's

trying to get all my #s together

Thanks to cold today again to work .so it's sleep time on computer time again !

The side bolts ARP sent me were the wrong size. Go with MMR instead.

I re-used my stock ARP rod bolts since the ones sent to me were incorrect.

I don't recall which head studs I went with. I looked at the comparative prices and made a decision, just dontrecall the outcome. I can check tonight.

 

[SlowSVT]

thats right it was on a MMR post. thanks . im guess im going to get the arp 2000 head studs only 100 bucks more,,i think, i like the extra ins. esp. when we taking head seal here

I believe the head studs used on the Boss block are the same as the 4.6.

The side bolts are different as you stated. I posted that information on the "Boss 5.0 Iron block" thread. Go here for info:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/697310-boss-5-0-iron-block-7.html

I would get them directly from ARP. They cost me $56 for the set

 

[01trublue cobra]

May I suggest that you do a good detailing of the enginebay and powdercoat the valve covers and timing cover if you don't already have that in the works.

 

[Quick Strike]

on the manley stock rods i want the 2000 bolts,on lethals site they got 2 different sets?

Stock 03-04 cobra Manley rods will use ARP part #200-6207. This is a ARP 2000 bolt and has the same head, shank, thread length and thread type as the original Manley SVT rods. It is a general replacement part number with only eight bolts per package. You will need two packages. I bought mine through Summit and had the rods resized with them during the machining phase of my project. My machinest said to use them without the washers included in the package (like stock). Part number 256-6301 was not even made when I bought mine, but I think they are the same as 200-6207 in a package of 16. You should check with ARP to be sure.

 

[cobra=trouble]

D.

 

[Quick Strike]

Thanks Steve, nice #s you got there on a 101 deg day :banana:?

I am going back this spring with 3# more boost now that the engine is a broken in a little more. You know what round # I am after!

You had the problem with the exhast seats .did you have L/T'S then ?
i'am thinking .. does cast iron logs hold in. heat making the head hotter ?

I had JBA shorties and a catted MRT H pipe at that time, but it only had a Stieg Stage IV with a 4# lower and 2.8" upper (about 18# boost). I also had the LDC cooling mod. I think the valve seat issue started with a bad gas. I ran a tankful that cooked the ground strap off a few plugs. I changed the plugs and put good gas in it and everything seemed fine for two years of daily driving, but I bet all that heat and detonation was a factor in it comming free several years later.

 

[IUP99snake]

Awesome build! Keep the pics coming!

There is nothing more frustrating than a shop not doing what they said they were going to do. EVERY single shop I have ever had work on my car or the engine has taken longer than they said they were going to.

Are you going with the stock stroke? Or are you going to put a stroker crank in that motor while you have it apart? You already bought pistons, so I'm assuming you've already made a decision either way.

 

[cobra=trouble]

D