Having seen under two cars with FLSFC. One with MM, and the other car had another brand... I would definitely go with MM FLSFC. For the rear at a minimum, I would have a BF IRS brace, FTBR diff mounts, and FTBR subframe mounts.
need more power, but dont know which direction to go.
- Thread starter termin80r
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Or you can do two at a time..
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/354895-how-change-suspension-springs.html
I agree with others, that your money will be way better spent on suspension to hook up what you currently have for power. Even if you could afford to slap a Whipple on, it won't necessarily make your car any faster since you say you can't hook the 480 you already have. Also, it takes considerable practice to be able to launch these cars properly. Dumping the clutch at 6k is going to rip the tires off of even a stock Cobra, so you definitely need the driver mod, along with some carefully selected suspension mods.
+1 and don't forget the delrin bushings in the upper and lower control arms. It helped me a bunch with wheel hop.
The brace is a band-aid and does NOTHING to prevent wheel hop. If you want to make sure the IRS doesn't spill it's guts - get an LPW cover.
FTBR Bushing kit, wider rear wheels, a good drag radial, springs, and FLSFC should be your first mods. No sense in making the car faster if you'll never be able to get it to the ground.
is there really a cure for hooking on the street? hell most of the people i watch with alot of these suspension mods can't catch traction on a well prepped race track. im not saying that suspension modifications arent necessary because stiffer bushings and subframe connectors make a world of difference but if your having a hard time coming up with the money for $600 bushings, i'd save your money and learn to feather the throttle a little better.
While you are saying basically what I did about working on the "driver mod" first, I will say that $600 in bushings is not a waste of money. It will help the existing suspension components work as they should without all of the deflection that causes shit to break! If the car breaks loose, and is hopping all over the place, it will be more costly in repairs alone, than to just have built the rear correctly from the beginning. Once you bulletproof the suspension, then learn to drive it, since the dynamics will be different at that point anyway.;-)
Have some full length subframe connectors welded in, then get a two point strut tower brace for the engine compartment. that will stiffen you up quite a bit. New aluminum IRS bushings should help with the wheel hop issue.
But traction is traction. We need wider tires with good sidewall. you may want to invest in a set of wider wheels out back. And get some wide tires with awesome grip. Just be aware that Drag Radials may get you in trouble in any kind of rainy weather.
I know what you are talking about. when I go to my Cobra, the potential was obviously there. the first race I had though (yes, street race. Yes, I know. Dumb idea) was against a Challenger SRT8. We raced a few times from a dig and a few times from a roll (40 MPH). He didn't know much about Cobras and thought it was just another Mustang. From a dig, he destroyed me. Partially because I didn't know how to launch the car an partly because the stock tires were woefully inadequate. The car literally stood still burning rubber. I never had so much power before so it was a little unusual. at this point, he couldn't wait to roll race. the Cobra dominated. As in, not even a race at all. almost as soon as I went WOT, he was 9 cars back. LOL
but I learned a few things from that. 1) the chassis isn't the stiffest thing in the world and needs to be helped out pronto. 2) the car needs a serious set of tires. When you have those, you will be loving it. After that, get a 2.9 whipple and be happy for a long, long time.
I do agree with these comments to some point. I currently installed h&r race springs, lpw diff cover with ftbr diff bushings and I have to feather it through 1st gear or either short shift into 2nd gear, sometimes I get some wheel hop or just spin really bad. I also have MM FLSFC's and nitto drag radials 305/35/18's. Maybe I need to lower the tire pressure though, I haven't had it any lower than 26-27 psi on the street. Maybe drop it down to 20-22? Also My 18's might not be helping as much and maybe at one point get the whole rear bushing kit.
I do have 10.5 " wheels out back. i do feather the throttle, i have to slip the clutch when racing. My FLSFCs are on the way. The LPW cover is in my parts list. Ill keep posted as I keep adding parts. I Think FTBR and Coilovers will come last. What brand coilovers do you guys recommend???
I don't understand how the op does not hook on mt drag radials. I run a skinny set of 275/40/17 555r's and I hook great. I can't dump first gear but I hook plenty good to get moving. I don't spin 2nd at all. Only diff my car has is I did a sra swap with upper lower control arms. 50/50 shocks, fox body springs, and full length connecters.
my car has no suspesion mods other than being lowered. I dont see how it could hook the way it sits now. like i said im waiting on the FLSFC to come in and ill get them welded on and well see where to go from there.
315 17" should help out.
Definitely at least pull up the rear carpet when welding to the torque boxes. I didn't, and ended up with a hole in mine because of it. Luckily I smelled the burning before it caught fire, and did more damage.
I have the same tires you have and I run 24lbs in them all the time. I dead hook 1/4 through 1st and keep it to the floor from then on. I have H&R Race Springs, FLSFC and Delrin IRS Bushings (I think that's the brand) and I have no hop unless it's cold out.
Im still waiting on the subframe connectors, and im still looking into all the bushings. H&R springs will be next. which ones should i get. my car has been lowered, but the springs look stock. i think they were just cut. i dont want my car sitting too low, i wanna be able to get atleast a small jack under it.
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