CobraBob said:
No offence but a piece of PVC pipe from Home Depot it not a quality product IMO. Everyone that was at the shop when I recieved my intake laughed all day when they seen it, its been a running joke since then.
Not real happy with JLT CAI right now...
- Thread starter Teal Terminator
- Start date
No offence but a piece of PVC pipe from Home Depot it not a quality product IMO. Everyone that was at the shop when I recieved my intake laughed all day when they seen it, its been a running joke since then.
Whatever you say. There are a lot of people using Tucker's products that would say the contrary. If it was a "running joke" it wouldn't be one of the best selling intakes on the market. :shrug:Quik Z06 said:
So if Tucker made the tube himself on his own equipment that would make it "better"? :shrug:pvteye said:
how much is a "tad"? :read:CobraBob said:
I ran both the in-fender, and the high boost JLT in my car and had great success with both of them. I also run the JLT setup in my F-150. I prefer in-fender cold air systems because the inner fender is a high pressure area when the car is at speed and will result in more top end power without question. It's not even about IAT temps. You will not see these gains on a dyno.
Jay's customer service is 2nd to none in this industry. If you are having a fitment issue, all you would have to do is call him and he would be glad to help you through any issue you may have. These systems are not that hard to install, all it takes is a little patience to get everything setup right and then you can clamp everything down. The 1st time you do something it always takes longer.
Jay's customer service is 2nd to none in this industry. If you are having a fitment issue, all you would have to do is call him and he would be glad to help you through any issue you may have. These systems are not that hard to install, all it takes is a little patience to get everything setup right and then you can clamp everything down. The 1st time you do something it always takes longer.
Tucker
Active Member
Funny how so many people want to say it's a home depot piece, but yet 3 years later no one has dublicated it with parts from home depot.
If there is a shelf there with JLT's on it, let me know as I'd save a ton of time.
One thing many are forgeting is your trying to install something 4 times the size of factory without cutting up your car.
Fitment is tight, but does fit. I've done a few
I have local guys pick them up, try to install and call me with issues. I have them bring it by a install it myself in 10-15 minutes everytime. They just stand there baffled.
Why, your trying too hard. You get frustrated, jump on the internet, have others post who "heard" it was a PITA and get even madder.
Then when you calm down it goes in.
Happens everytime.
These cars are all the same with in 10mm from the factory. The pipes are all the same from the same jig as the over 5000 others in the past 3 years. All are hand made here on site and human error is possiable and does happen, but we do everything we can short of flying to your car and installing it for you.
If your not happy, return it. If something is damaged, give me the oppurtunity to fix it before you blast me on the internet. Funny though, even when you do replace something no questions asked you still get blasted.
We have been in business over 3 years and sold over 5000 kits. I can honestly say about less then 1/2 of 1% have had breakage issues and they ALL were replaced. No problems. I stand behind my product.
Then you get people who don't tell you the whole story, like, having taller aftermarket coil covers, or a blower spacer or a C&L meter or that they have very limited mechanical ability.
It takes some tools, a small amount of mech. knowalage, and a clean head. It's not a 30 minute job, but it's not a 3 hour job. If your at it for more then 1-1.5 hours the first time, step back and regroup. Somethings off.
Tips:
Use soapy water on all the connections and leave clamps loose.
Install as a unit and make final adjustments while it's in the car.
Removing the wheel helps greatly
Rotate the 45 degree elbow at the throttle boe for best fit. (if this is off you WILL fight yourself)
Facts:
It will touch the coil cover (MAF)
It's tight
It will touch the coolant lines and wheel liner, but should NOT push hard on either. If it is, somethings not right.
It will lower your IAT1 temps and can handle all the HP these cars can make
My phone number is all over the net. If you have a question or concern call. I do my best to help everybody.
Thanks
Jay
If there is a shelf there with JLT's on it, let me know as I'd save a ton of time.
One thing many are forgeting is your trying to install something 4 times the size of factory without cutting up your car.
Fitment is tight, but does fit. I've done a few
I have local guys pick them up, try to install and call me with issues. I have them bring it by a install it myself in 10-15 minutes everytime. They just stand there baffled.
Why, your trying too hard. You get frustrated, jump on the internet, have others post who "heard" it was a PITA and get even madder.
Then when you calm down it goes in.
Happens everytime.
These cars are all the same with in 10mm from the factory. The pipes are all the same from the same jig as the over 5000 others in the past 3 years. All are hand made here on site and human error is possiable and does happen, but we do everything we can short of flying to your car and installing it for you.
If your not happy, return it. If something is damaged, give me the oppurtunity to fix it before you blast me on the internet. Funny though, even when you do replace something no questions asked you still get blasted.
We have been in business over 3 years and sold over 5000 kits. I can honestly say about less then 1/2 of 1% have had breakage issues and they ALL were replaced. No problems. I stand behind my product.
Then you get people who don't tell you the whole story, like, having taller aftermarket coil covers, or a blower spacer or a C&L meter or that they have very limited mechanical ability.
It takes some tools, a small amount of mech. knowalage, and a clean head. It's not a 30 minute job, but it's not a 3 hour job. If your at it for more then 1-1.5 hours the first time, step back and regroup. Somethings off.
Tips:
Use soapy water on all the connections and leave clamps loose.
Install as a unit and make final adjustments while it's in the car.
Removing the wheel helps greatly
Rotate the 45 degree elbow at the throttle boe for best fit. (if this is off you WILL fight yourself)
Facts:
It will touch the coil cover (MAF)
It's tight
It will touch the coolant lines and wheel liner, but should NOT push hard on either. If it is, somethings not right.
It will lower your IAT1 temps and can handle all the HP these cars can make
My phone number is all over the net. If you have a question or concern call. I do my best to help everybody.
Thanks
Jay
First I want to say, very well put Jay. Second, even though I was quite frustrated when I made this post I did try and refrain from bashing your product b/c I know so many people wouldn't own it if it weren't a quality piece. And along those lines, when I first opened the box and was looking everything over I was very pleased with the quality of everything. The only things upon initial observation that I didn't like were a couple "dimples" in the pipe and then how you could see the seams where the different pieces of PVC were sealed together. Neither of those was of great concern to me though since I was going to paint it anyway. I just took some lite filler and touched up the dimples and seams and made them nearly invisible.
At this point the only thing I am still a little dissatisfied with is the fitment of the rubber elbow to the MAF. Maybe that hole is made so large to accomidate larger aftermarket MAF's and maybe it does seal just fine after firmly clamping down on that hose clamp but it just seems there is an excess amount of space there. I wouldn't be so concerned about it except that if that doesn't seal properly, and stay sealed after heat cycle after heat cycle, etc, it is after the MAF and would allow unmetered air into the engine and if I am at full boost and it goes lean there goes my very expensive motor all because of a $250 CAI. I may just buy a T-type hose clamp and put it at that connection just to ease my mind (clamping not as tightly b/c I know those clamps can crush aluminum TB's, let alone plastic MAF housings).
Anyway, in my defense, after I did get it installed I did make sure to come back to this post, reiterate that overall I was very pleased with this product, and that I felt it was a quality piece and that it was just a little difficult to install (as it should be for the reasons you stated above).
Also, I appreciate you posting here and I did not intend for this to become a public dispute of a private problem. Not that I mind, but I don't want it coming across as a vendor bashing post b/c that was not my intention. When I first began installing it you guys wouldn't have been open to talk to anyway and secondly I knew I wasn't in a state of mind to tactfully complain so I just stopped working on it and cooled off, as you said, until the next day and then after a little "tweeking" it all went together fine.
Overall at this point I hope this post comes across as a positive for your product and your customer service. Again, I don't think there is a better looking CAI on the market and I hope to find out that their isn't a better performing one either in the very near future.
Sincerely,
Ryan
At this point the only thing I am still a little dissatisfied with is the fitment of the rubber elbow to the MAF. Maybe that hole is made so large to accomidate larger aftermarket MAF's and maybe it does seal just fine after firmly clamping down on that hose clamp but it just seems there is an excess amount of space there. I wouldn't be so concerned about it except that if that doesn't seal properly, and stay sealed after heat cycle after heat cycle, etc, it is after the MAF and would allow unmetered air into the engine and if I am at full boost and it goes lean there goes my very expensive motor all because of a $250 CAI. I may just buy a T-type hose clamp and put it at that connection just to ease my mind (clamping not as tightly b/c I know those clamps can crush aluminum TB's, let alone plastic MAF housings).
Anyway, in my defense, after I did get it installed I did make sure to come back to this post, reiterate that overall I was very pleased with this product, and that I felt it was a quality piece and that it was just a little difficult to install (as it should be for the reasons you stated above).
Also, I appreciate you posting here and I did not intend for this to become a public dispute of a private problem. Not that I mind, but I don't want it coming across as a vendor bashing post b/c that was not my intention. When I first began installing it you guys wouldn't have been open to talk to anyway and secondly I knew I wasn't in a state of mind to tactfully complain so I just stopped working on it and cooled off, as you said, until the next day and then after a little "tweeking" it all went together fine.
Overall at this point I hope this post comes across as a positive for your product and your customer service. Again, I don't think there is a better looking CAI on the market and I hope to find out that their isn't a better performing one either in the very near future.
Sincerely,
Ryan
the more i read the more i'm glad i ordered a C&L. just the look of the JLT made me think "ebay intake"
BrookhavenTuner said:
Yep, there is nothing like heating up your intake air with that metal heat sink (c&l).:rollseyes :nono: IMO plastic is the only way to go.I don't get why I see so many cars running metal CAI and a filter in the engine bay sucking up hot air.isn't it common knowledge by now that this is bad for performance?Its been nearly 30 years since the cowl induction hoods taught us that.
im shocked some people still dont think that many of the best intakes on the market are aluminum. For how fast air goes through the intake it will NEVER make any difference. I have run an aluminum intake(made my Roush) on my escort for YEARS, and after running it for 2hr trips the intake was NEVER even warm to the touch.
The air is in the intake for fractions of a second. Your reasoning is like ricers saying the hood scoop on their civic will cool the air in their intake at high speeds.
30yrs was 30years ago. Now a days the best intake is decided by airflow and bends.
The air is in the intake for fractions of a second. Your reasoning is like ricers saying the hood scoop on their civic will cool the air in their intake at high speeds.
30yrs was 30years ago. Now a days the best intake is decided by airflow and bends.
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BrookhavenTuner said:
If temperature makes no difference why is it preferred to get cooler air from outside the engine bay? Why use an intercooler ? why do racers use a cool can? of course on the highway you have maximum airflow and it will stay cool,try stop and go traffic in summertime here in calif and I bet it wont be cool to the touch.
The principles of physics are the same today as 30 years ago,nothing has changed less heat is better.
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dan04gt said:
1. Show me where I said temp makes no difference.
2.When sitting in traffic EVERY intake gets warm I had an Iceman at one point(plasic) it even got warm sitting in staging or long traffic jams. Then it(any intake) will cool right back down after air starts to flow again, thats also part of physics.
3. I am not using any intake that puts a 90* bend BEFORE the MAF or relocates the MAF. I have never seen EITHER of those 2 things help on a dyno. Ive even seen a v8 SHO lose hp/tq because the angle of the MAF was moved, then gain the power right back by putting it at stock location.
It takes more then being colder to be better.
FWIW, I had zero issues installing mine... and it's the slightly larger CF setup. I didn't take off my wheel either... Took me about 30 minutes to install, mainly due to a smoke break, knocking over a beer and cleaning up said beer spill. I had no problems installing mine.
I had the Steeda and the C&L setups on the cobra, and drove for awhile with both on... hoping that Jay would release a setup for us guys with a STB. After installing the JLT, I noticed a large increase in power. I'm extremely happy with it.
If someone claims they can go to home depot and make one, then do it...
if you don't like something about the kit, like a 90* bend, go to home depot and fix it, since that's where you can apparently get all the parts to make a JLT kit. (not trying to start anything by that either.)
I had the Steeda and the C&L setups on the cobra, and drove for awhile with both on... hoping that Jay would release a setup for us guys with a STB. After installing the JLT, I noticed a large increase in power. I'm extremely happy with it.
If someone claims they can go to home depot and make one, then do it...
if you don't like something about the kit, like a 90* bend, go to home depot and fix it, since that's where you can apparently get all the parts to make a JLT kit. (not trying to start anything by that either.)
Tucker
Active Member
Funny thing is I personally own a Cobra and have run my intake for over 3 years. I'm not your normal shop owner driving a Lexus. I own, work on and race these cars and my parts.
I have NEVER have a seal problem between the 45 and the MAF.
I have never have to go back and retighten any clamps.
I have NEVER had a MAF fall off (this one kills me )
For the thread starter, I understand your frustration and thank you for your posts about it AND the after posts with the great pics. Your car looks hot and the intake looks great from your paint. I remember your call and was wondering why you wanted teal, but now I know. Looks good.
Also, congrats (you may not know this) on making it into 5.0 this month.
Your notch is in the rides section.
What frustrates me the most is the comments about PVC and home depot when not one part of out kit is from there.
Many many hours are put into these pipes and I welcome anyone to make one and post pics, the hours and cost of doing it. Not just the pipe, but the filters, elbows, conections, fittings and adaptors. Go make one EXACTLY like a JLT and see how much it really cost.
Even when I do a cost break down on the RAI it comes out as more then the $150 we sell it for.
I see many having install issues and I understand that. It's a tough install, but 99% say "it was a PITA, but worth it."
It's all how you go about it.
I install these on the dyno with the car strapped down, so I know it can be done.
All in all, I say this.
If you have a issue, question, problem or even a positive comment- Call, PM or email me. I answer 100% of my inquires.
Thanks to all,
Jay
I have NEVER have a seal problem between the 45 and the MAF.
I have never have to go back and retighten any clamps.
I have NEVER had a MAF fall off (this one kills me )
For the thread starter, I understand your frustration and thank you for your posts about it AND the after posts with the great pics. Your car looks hot and the intake looks great from your paint. I remember your call and was wondering why you wanted teal, but now I know. Looks good.
Also, congrats (you may not know this) on making it into 5.0 this month.
Your notch is in the rides section.
What frustrates me the most is the comments about PVC and home depot when not one part of out kit is from there.
Many many hours are put into these pipes and I welcome anyone to make one and post pics, the hours and cost of doing it. Not just the pipe, but the filters, elbows, conections, fittings and adaptors. Go make one EXACTLY like a JLT and see how much it really cost.
Even when I do a cost break down on the RAI it comes out as more then the $150 we sell it for.
I see many having install issues and I understand that. It's a tough install, but 99% say "it was a PITA, but worth it."
It's all how you go about it.
I install these on the dyno with the car strapped down, so I know it can be done.
All in all, I say this.
If you have a issue, question, problem or even a positive comment- Call, PM or email me. I answer 100% of my inquires.
Thanks to all,
Jay
BrookhavenTuner said:
Have you read all the posts from the guys that GAINED power from the JLT intakes? Ebay intake:dw: ? LOL. Have you ever even seen one on a car? There are none out there that look better. If you don't want one then don't buy one, I'm sure Jay won't mind.
Thanks again to Jay for taking a chance and making personal sacrifices to bring something positive to the aftermarket. :beer:
Oh yeah, good luck with your C&L.
SickBlackMach said:
I have the C&L on there and have not had any issues..I really don't like the plastic cover over the filter..But you think the JLT will give me A Large Increase in power??? Are you talking 1 to 3hp?? With all the test I have seen most of the brand name CAI give you around the same HP...I would love to see a true test on all of them...:rockon:
Thanks again Jay.
And SWEET, I didn't know "my" Notch (just sold it) made it into 5.0 & SF (I haven't gotten this months issue yet) but I will anxiously be awaiting its arrival now even more than normal.
And SWEET, I didn't know "my" Notch (just sold it) made it into 5.0 & SF (I haven't gotten this months issue yet) but I will anxiously be awaiting its arrival now even more than normal.
Thanks for your input Jay. There a lot of misinformation floating around.
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