opening up the hood vents for more cooling
- Thread starter racebronco2
- Start date
a gurney flap on the leading edge will create a low pressure area behind it and help suck air out (since air will always move from a high pressure to low pressure area)
there's also a low pressure area at the base of the windshield.
there's also a low pressure area at the base of the windshield.
Construction, metal stud framer. Watched plenty of car/ customizing shows.
I used to auox a bronco2 hence the sceen name, in 5 years of racing it from basically stock to highly modded, i chopped the top 3 inches, body dropped 2 inches, 7" suspension drop, turbo'd it, flared the fenders to fit 12" wide tires on it and it would out handle my cobra. So modifying a hood is a piece of cake.
I used to auox a bronco2 hence the sceen name, in 5 years of racing it from basically stock to highly modded, i chopped the top 3 inches, body dropped 2 inches, 7" suspension drop, turbo'd it, flared the fenders to fit 12" wide tires on it and it would out handle my cobra. So modifying a hood is a piece of cake.
This weekend i was at buttonwillow, i did not run with the tape on caus eit would just look to ghetto. The air temp on saturday was low 80's and today high 70's. The engine temp did not go over 210 degrees even though i was not short shifting it. The track was a 3rd and 4th gear track. In the mornings it must have been low 50's and the car's temp was 195 degrees. :-D
here are the lastest pictures
I went to another open track event and the engine temps only got up to 210 degrees.
This weekend i was at butonwillow at the svtoa event. A friend with a similar set-up engine temp was running 225degrees and during that session i had passed him and my engine temp was only 205 degrees.
ready for paint
So far the modified hood has been the best cooling mod, not just extending the amount of track time but running so cool that i don't need to worry about the temps. I am going to run with the 2.80 upper and see how cool it stays.
So far the modified hood has been the best cooling mod, not just extending the amount of track time but running so cool that i don't need to worry about the temps. I am going to run with the 2.80 upper and see how cool it stays.
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Are you also running a boxed in rad???
As in... any air going through the front openings HAS to go through the radiator.
Neat idea on the vents... I thought about what might be involved with a mod like that and decided I could do without the fiberglass in my fingers..... FOR NOW!!...LOL!!!
I may however try a version of the vent trim tab thing... even if it is a removable deal I can use at track events...
I love grass roots innovation!!!
As in... any air going through the front openings HAS to go through the radiator.
Neat idea on the vents... I thought about what might be involved with a mod like that and decided I could do without the fiberglass in my fingers..... FOR NOW!!...LOL!!!
I may however try a version of the vent trim tab thing... even if it is a removable deal I can use at track events...
I love grass roots innovation!!!
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looking good
Jimmysidecarr said:
you usually are supposed to wear gloves when glassing.
BTW i love subtle customization like this and cant wait to see the finished product.
Came out better than I thought it would. Awesome job and idea man!!
Jimmysidecarr said:
Yes i am running a boxed radiator along with a 3" plastic strip attached under the bumper/ radiator to aid in creating a vacuum behind the radiator
(kb idea). Found out that removing the weather stripping at the back of the hood does not help cooling since air if reversing and going into the engine bay(mounted a camera to record the results, taped string every 3 inches). Earlier this year i also did the same experiment under the car (was told our cars are bottom feeder) and the results were that air entering the bumper cover opening and was escaping thru the opening between the h/e and radiator and under the car.
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A few pictures of the under radiator piece (kb idea)
racebronco2 said:
I have the materials to do the same thing. I'm holding off until I install my new radiator. The more reading and research I do, The more it seems that the cooling system is not the problem on these cars, it is airflow managment. I'm glad I didn't waste a ton of money on Evans parts.
The airfoil underneath is a perfect compliment to the larger heat extractors.
The hood looks great. I saw some pics on a Subaru board of your car in action at Streets of Willow a few weeks ago.
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Thanks Carlos!!!
Great post!!! That lower air damn is supposed to be a big help!!
Any pics of the enclosure method you used for the rad???
It would be nice to be able to do some summer events too... but currently till I install some of the stuff in the garage and use some of the ideas in this post, I will be running fall, winter and spring events.
It just gets too darn hot here in Texas for my car the way it currently sits.
The heater does pull a lot of heat out if needed... I'm glad I don't have to worry about "slow roasting" instructors anymore... lol!!!
Great post!!! That lower air damn is supposed to be a big help!!
Any pics of the enclosure method you used for the rad???
It would be nice to be able to do some summer events too... but currently till I install some of the stuff in the garage and use some of the ideas in this post, I will be running fall, winter and spring events.
It just gets too darn hot here in Texas for my car the way it currently sits.
The heater does pull a lot of heat out if needed... I'm glad I don't have to worry about "slow roasting" instructors anymore... lol!!!
racebronco2 said:
Nice...:thumbsup: :beer:
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dogmush said:
Just go to your local home center and pick up some rubber brush guard (or whatever it is called).
There is a lip that curves back to the wheels on either side of the radiator. There is already an airdam under the radiator that lines up with the "lips" on either side. This is a very easy and straightforward deal. You can use some alumnium angle iron for renforcement if you like, and rivet, or drill to nut and bolt the rubber to the car.
If you street drive alot, you will want to make sure it is easy to replace the rubber airfoil. It will start looking ratty and mabye deteriorate in as quickly as 6 months to a year because it will rub over everything.
The rubber material is also good for blocking off the heat exchanger, etc. You will have to get more creative with that part using different pieces and shapes, but it can be done for pretty cheap.
Ashley
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