Any way to the OP I feel bad...the car dosen't look bad just uneven fork out the cash match the fronts,n lower it!
*Oxford White Terminator with Deep Dish 03 Chromies*
- Thread starter not Jake
- Start date
not for me
I think it`ll look way different when you drop it!
oke: Yea, hi there......
With all do respect, you're a moron.
I understand that you assume that if you pay for something, it automatically makes it better. It makes sense typically. HOWEVER, in this case you are not correct.
03/04 Cobra's come with linear rate springs. I will find the equation if you like. (edit: just looked it up....the rate is 600lb/in front and rear and vert is 500lb/in front 470lb/in rear).
Now your argument would make sense if the Cobra's had PROGRESSIVE rate springs which travel distance comes into play changing rate as the spring is compressed. However with linear rate, the rate remains constant through the entire distance of compression. Cutting springs do NOT affect the integrity of the spring itself. A linear rate spring has a constant spring rating, no matter how much the spring is compressed, for example 600lb/in. This means that for every 600 pounds of pressure, there will be 1 inch of spring compression. A progressive rate spring will have a variable spring rate, for example 425-630lb/in. This means that it may take 425 pounds for 1 inch of compression, but as the spring compresses more it will rise to as much as 630 pounds of pressure. To put it simply, the spring "progressively" gets stiffer as it is compressed.
Unlike linear rate springs, progressive rate springs will change when cut. The tension changes on progressive rate springs change as they are compressed getting more tension as they are compressed. Understand? Therefore, if you cut some spring out, you reduce the distance the spring has to travel to reach full compression.
Now, I know what you are thinking....
You are wondering if the tension rate of said cut spring is effectively similar to your "$275 springs". I have plugged in the numbers once before on another site for this particular reason (someone thought what you thought) and guess what? The rates are almost identical on H&R SS max compression. Aftermarket springs ARE however Progressive rate, which SOME would argue are better, but I would rather my springs not be as soft on the initial compression because of how low my car is. Although the mere 80 or so lb/in difference in initial compression (depending on the spring) is a miniscule ammount when compared to overall comression rate and cant really be noticed, unless you are running around "The Ring".
So BASICALLY what this means is a stock spring cut to the SAME height as....say an H&R SS, will maintain the same tension rate thus giving you the same benefits of having the aftermarket springs unless you are pushing your car in auto X to the ABSOLUTE EDGE of the envelope.
So, unless you are going with a coilover setup or something a bit more extreme, or you autocross daily, you are waisting money. Because in everyday driving, you arent really ever going to notice the ~80lb/in initial difference (again depending on spring).
Unless of course you are one of those people that just want them to add to a mod list and make people think you bought the "best".
And before you say it.....I have had both.
:beer:
Just goes to show, you learn something new everyday! :thumbsup:
Oh to the OP, I think the wheels look pretty good, they just don't match the fronts close enough.
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9 out of 10 non Cobra people wont notice its slightly different. I agree it will look better lowered.
About matching the fronts. I chose to go with stock fronts b/c I did not like the way the DD fronts looked at all. I haven't seen many pictures of these DD wheels on Terminators and thought I'd be a test pig for them. 04Sleeper took some great pics of a RedFire Terminator that I eye raped and finally decided to try stock fronts. It wasn't about forking out more cash to match the DD rears as I ordered all 4 at the same time.
BTW, no one needs to feel bad for giving me opinions. I hope we're all here to help each other out and give advice to others. After I drop the stance some and it still looks like hell, I can just get some regular 10.5's and use these for track wheels .
In pictures they really do look weird b/c you can compare fronts and rears at a glance. In person, on a much larger scale, its harder to tell the spokes are that much different. Keep the comments coming. Maybe I'll help someone choose or not choose these wheels by posting more pictures.
I'm about to get off my lazy rear and cut some springs.
BTW, no one needs to feel bad for giving me opinions. I hope we're all here to help each other out and give advice to others. After I drop the stance some and it still looks like hell, I can just get some regular 10.5's and use these for track wheels
. In pictures they really do look weird b/c you can compare fronts and rears at a glance. In person, on a much larger scale, its harder to tell the spokes are that much different. Keep the comments coming. Maybe I'll help someone choose or not choose these wheels by posting more pictures.
I'm about to get off my lazy rear and cut some springs.
i think it will look alot better when its dropped.
It will definitely look good dropped. In this pic you can clearly see the spoke size difference. Jdrake can you measure different spots of the spokes and compare them to the stock wheels? I bet they are almost 1/2" skinnier the closer you get to the outer rim
IMO, I think it does look a little "odd" with that style of DD out back, but I also think that it will look a LOT better once it's lowered. Also agree that if they made 18s they would look great!
Lowered:
Lowered:
not feeling them! looks great otherwise
If you would have done 18's in the rear, I think it would have looked ALOT better! looks like you have 18's in the front and 17's in the rear.....
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not bad imo
I was thinking the same thing actually. Not sure if it looks the same in person, but in the pics, with the DD it looks like the rear wheel is smaller for some reason.
I have never heard of spring rates varying with mileage. If you dont do your own work, get someone close to you that may be on the board to do it. The point of this is saving the money and getting the exact ride height you want.
Like my car. had i gone with aftermarket springs, i would have had to be happy with the height. But since I cut, I could adjust.
I first cut a half coil....didnt like the height. So I took out the top isos....still didnt like it. So I took out the bottom isos. Not quite where i wanted it. Then i cut another half out. Bam....got it. And if you **** up......you can always buy aftermarkets or you could just buy more stock springs for cheap as dirt.
Im not a cheap person, i just dont believe in paying for something you dont really need.
+1 Didnt even notice that
I have a pretty helpfull writeup on it if you need it. Just let me know and i will PM it to you.
ewww.
Agreed.
take some more angles...straight side, view 3/4 rear stills, more stills....this 3/4 rear rolling looks awesome...i want to do the same but w/ machined...the wheels look good together here:
Looks odd. Those wheels don't respond very well to the dish lol.
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