Upgrading Both Door Speakers Shaker Pro System

[1TUF14SHELBY]

I'm wanting/going to swap out both sets of speakers in the doors including the 6 x 8's for a set of Infinity's (6832cf) as I feel mids and highs are muddy and lacking. Since I have the ShakerPro I figure the trunk sub will compliment this well. I am aware I need the spacers from the 2010 mustangs for the 6x 8's. I also have the Shelby Kicker replacement door subs ordered but have some questions on the door subs and hoping someone can answer that's done this or similar upgrade.

If I replace the door subs with the Kickers am I able to use the stock speaker rings or will only the Kicker rings work?

From searching forums I can not find specifics but it appears the sub wires on the 13's/14's might be different from prior years. Anyone have a wiring diagram so I can confirm all of them? Anything else I should be aware of?

Those that have done the upgrades any comments?

Thanks!

 

[1TUF14SHELBY]

Also, does the whole door panel need to come off to replace just the subs? I might do this in 2 steps (replace 6x8 first) if I don't need to pull whole door panel off (I have only pulled the sub ring off to peek). It looks like they mount into the door panel and have an enclosure built onto the door panel.

 

[Lethalchem]

I read a thread where someone else already did this and was pleased with the results, I can't remember who it was though. I'm interested in something like this as well.

 

[Twitchgreen]

I did this. The Kicker door subs come with a new Shelby ring (presuming you buy it from Shelby). The OEM subs have 2 sets of wires. You only need 1 set for the Kickers. You'll end up taping off & zip tying the other wire out of the way. I don't recall the exact color of the wires but the instructions clearly did not match my '13. I just tested out both wires & went with the one that sounded best & did the same on the other door.

The door 6x8s require a Ford spacer that goes between the door & the speaker to let it sit flat & give the speaker something to mount to; the OEM speakers have the spacer built in so you can't reuse them. I got mine from Tousley Ford...you need to buy a left & right spacer. They are like $11 each. Kicker sells plug & play speakers that have harnesses...again through Shelby.

There is another thread where I posted add'l info (either here, fordgt500.com, or teamshelby.com).

 

[Twitchgreen]

Link to post where I listed spacer part numbers & wire colors for my sub install:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2013-shelby-gt500-413/906526-shaker-pro-2.html#post12696735

 

[1TUF14SHELBY]

It appears stock sub is dual voice coil and the Shelby is single 4 ohm. I've read conflicting impedance levels on the factory sub (anyone know for sure) and it seems like the kicker should be a similar dual voice coil but its not. So this has me wondering if the Shelby Kicker is bridging the AMP by effectively running the postive off one channel and negative on the other, or is it just using 1/2 of the Amps power (since single voice coil). This then has me wondering if the Rockford Fosgate Shallow 8", dual voice coil subs P3SD4-8 would fit under the factory door ring and use 100% of the power (both channels). Anyone?

 

[Twitchgreen]

The Shelby Kicker complete package comes with an additional amp. There is definitely an ohm mismatch between the two. Honestly I can't tell a difference though. I can only turn it up about a 1/3 of the way before it is too loud for me. Maybe if you were going for a competitive audio setup you'd notice an issue.

Bottom line: swapping out all the OEM speakers in the Shaker setup (minus the trunk woofer) was totally worth it & sounds much better. I'm planning on Dynamatting everywhere in about a week...so that will help as well.

 

[1TUF14SHELBY]

I did the install this morning and swapped the stock doors with the Infinity 6832 (6x8) and the replaced the door subs with the Shelby Kicker 8". Metra wire harness is absolutely backwards so I had to swap the plugs so they matched. I am 100% certain all polarity is correct as I tested all of them. Also, as a reminder I have the ShakerPro with the additional sub in the trunk.

My thoughts:
1. Mid and high range are clearer which is good.
2. Low frequency bass from the doors is cut down a lot, and as others have noted you will get less vibrating bass in total. I really have mixed feelings on this and have disappointment in that Shelby/Kicker should have made these subs dual voice coil, and 2 OHM like the stock speakers as I think this would be substantially better.
3. Probably a better balanced system for those who don't listen to pop/hip hop/ but those that do should either use different door subs or leave stock ones in (I listen to all these along with some rock and country).

If you do not have the ShakerPro I would recommend only replacing the 6x8's unless you want anemic bass.

So net- I have mixed impressions, and would have probably only done the 6x8's based on my preferences but they are in now so I'll keep it this way for now.

I'd still love to hear if someone tries replacing the door subs with the dual voice coil, shallow mount Rockford Fosgates, 2 OHM's. My gut says that would the ideal set up (I might try this at some point this summer). Now that I have the Shelby speaker covers on they might just fit under them.

 

[carguy19]

For what its worth,

I heard a friends shelby (13) with only a switch to a 5 channel amp. Stock speakers.

I have to say that I think that the amp is the culprit and not the speakers. His sounds phenominal. He also crossed over all the speakers (the sub is 80 hertz and below) the doors are crossed over for mid and high only etc.

Im sure the speakers can benefit by being switched out, but the amp was a huge difference.

 

[Tytus2012]

I elected to not go with the shaker pro because I was going to do a aftermarket system. I replaced the door speakers with hertz hi energy components 5/14 and tweeter. I added 2 10" audiomobile elites. I left back speakers alone hooked up to factory amp. My front door speakers including the the 8" are hooked up to a kenwood digital amp and a audison bit 10 processor. There is another amp running the subs in the back. I have the electronics package and everything works with everything. I will say the factory 8's before everything sounded distorted at higher volumes, but now they sound great along with everything else. I could eventually change the 8's for hertz new 8's they have come out with but as of right now I am happy with my product. I will try to get some pics of the custom enclosure in the trunk. I think you guys will really like it.

 

[1TUF14SHELBY]

Tytus2012 -

Are you saying you kept the stock 8" door subs in but have them powered with a different amp - correct? Do they sound at all different in terms of muddiness? I am even thinking of putting the stock 8" back in and unsing either GTMAT or Dynamat the lower half of the door panel and/or inside the little sealed cavity these 8" are mounted in (would polyfill help?) and maybe that would still give me some better low end bass but also tighten it up a bit. There is no question these kickers do tighten the bass, they just need more power or a way to turn them up without turning up the uppers. I don't think there are any ways to reduce the volume of the other speakers other than fading front to rear but then it sounds to rear oriented. As I said in an earlier post, the door subs need to be higher SPL and be dual voice coil to really do the job. Speaking to Crutchfield they have some shallow mount Helix 8" for $180 apiece. I'd hate to put them in and again be disappointed by the lack of volume from them.

The good news is swapping the door speakers is not a huge chore, but I'd rather be doing something else with my time!

 

[Lethalchem]

For what its worth,

I heard a friends shelby (13) with only a switch to a 5 channel amp. Stock speakers.

I have to say that I think that the amp is the culprit and not the speakers. His sounds phenominal. He also crossed over all the speakers (the sub is 80 hertz and below) the doors are crossed over for mid and high only etc.

Im sure the speakers can benefit by being switched out, but the amp was a huge difference.

Interesting info! That certainly sounds much easier.

 

[Tytus2012]

Tytus2012 -

Are you saying you kept the stock 8" door subs in but have them powered with a different amp - correct? Do they sound at all different in terms of muddiness? I am even thinking of putting the stock 8" back in and unsing either GTMAT or Dynamat the lower half of the door panel and/or inside the little sealed cavity these 8" are mounted in (would polyfill help?) and maybe that would still give me some better low end bass but also tighten it up a bit. There is no question these kickers do tighten the bass, they just need more power or a way to turn them up without turning up the uppers. I don't think there are any ways to reduce the volume of the other speakers other than fading front to rear but then it sounds to rear oriented. As I said in an earlier post, the door subs need to be higher SPL and be dual voice coil to really do the job. Speaking to Crutchfield they have some shallow mount Helix 8" for $180 apiece. I'd hate to put them in and again be disappointed by the lack of volume from them.

The good news is swapping the door speakers is not a huge chore, but I'd rather be doing something else with my time!

Yes stock 8s are in the door with a different amp and processor running them. I don't use them for any low end bass. That is what the subs are for. They don't sound distorted anymore. Everything up front sounds crisp and clean.

 

[1TUF14SHELBY]

Update: Drove the car with the new 6x8 Infinity's and the new 8" Shelby Kicker subs this week (I installed last Sunday) and decided to order up some GTMAT 50mil (like Dynamat) and pull the door panels off. I used about 2sq ft on each door and put pieces in various places along with some hidden pieces inside the door pockets. I then soldered back the stock 8" dual voice coil, 2 ohm subs. My Infinitity 6x8's also have a 0 and +3DB tweeter gain switch so I switched up to +3 DB for use with the stock subs.

With the door sound a little tighter, the mids and highs from the front crisper, and the ShakerPro sub thumping, I'm happy again and feel the system with less than $100 in parts in total sounds much better to me. :rockon:

So now I have literally a brand new pair of the $150 Shelby Kickers and I doubt Shelbystore will take them back. :shrug:

 

[ljn21]

It appears stock sub is dual voice coil and the Shelby is single 4 ohm. I've read conflicting impedance levels on the factory sub (anyone know for sure) and it seems like the kicker should be a similar dual voice coil but its not. So this has me wondering if the Shelby Kicker is bridging the AMP by effectively running the postive off one channel and negative on the other, or is it just using 1/2 of the Amps power (since single voice coil). This then has me wondering if the Rockford Fosgate Shallow 8", dual voice coil subs P3SD4-8 would fit under the factory door ring and use 100% of the power (both channels). Anyone?

Also curious if anyone knows, would that Rockford sub allow use of the factory ring/cover? I would like to retain the factory ones. Also, for anyone who installed door subs other than the Shelby Kickers, any issue with not being able to use the rear mounting bolt? Still secure and no rattles without that being used?

 

[1TUF14SHELBY]

Also curious if anyone knows, would that Rockford sub allow use of the factory ring/cover? I would like to retain the factory ones. Also, for anyone who installed door subs other than the Shelby Kickers, any issue with not being able to use the rear mounting bolt? Still secure and no rattles without that being used?

I would think if you dynomat the back of the panel and maybe inside the door cavity you might be fine and minimize any rattle. I have also seen a post where someone used the factory door covers but as I recall they were highly modified via cutting the metal/plastic ring the door grill cover out and mounting it on the new door sub. So it can be done but requires some skills.

Also- I looked at the slim depth Rockfords but my gut said just put the factory ones back in. Let me know if you get the Dual Voice Coil 2 Ohm shallow mounts in and how they sound.

 

[jtfx6552]

Can you elaborate how you connect thew processor and new amps to the head unit? How'd you get power and signal to the trunk?

 

[tomshep]

1tuf, After reading through this you are saying in the end you replaced the 6x8s in the door and that was all and you are happing with a much improved sound?

Also, is there a way to put an inline filter on the door subs so they are not getting so much of the lows?

Tom

 

[1TUF14SHELBY]

1tuf, After reading through this you are saying in the end you replaced the 6x8s in the door and that was all and you are happing with a much improved sound?

Also, is there a way to put an inline filter on the door subs so they are not getting so much of the lows?

Tom

The new Infinity 6 x 8's improved the mids and highs nicely for a nominal cost. There probably is some sort of filter that would reduce the sound and or low bass hitting the door subs but I did not do that. Having the Kicker's from Shelby Store in place of the factory door subs effectively cut the sound down dramatically (in fact too much for my Rock/Pop/hip-hop/Country listening) thus I put the stock ones back in but installed some dynamat around the plastic enclosures to tighten it up and I'm happy with the end result.

 

[jtfx6552]

I signed up for Helm to look at the wiring diagrams and it looks to me like the Shaker and Shaker Pro are wired the exact same for the doors. I wonder if the SP uses a different amp?

The SP obviously has an additional amp for the sub in the trunk, but I'm looking at the door wiring. It looks like the amp for that is behind the dash between the steering column and the side of the car. I wonder how hard it would be to get an aftermarket amp that would fit in the same location so no wires would have to be messed with? Make up a jumper harness in advance and plug and play with the new amp.