Who has the High Boost intake with a SCT BA2600 and who tuned it?

[trailblazer sss]

I have the same exact problem as op. Posi ported Eaton stock fuel system 2.75 upper only dragon setup ported. Gen 2 high boost an ba2600..long story short I too bought another maf I two had two different tuners take a swing both failed. Jms an amazon. Granted rick tried twice Jms tried several times nobody got it right so I parked the car Iam fed up. Emailed rick the other day actually a month ago nvr got a response...

 

[Wicked46]

Had similar issues with my Gen 2 High boost intake as well. Also using the SCT PRP. We got it close but the curve is still not as linear as we'd like it to be but the A/F is pretty good.

Had an issue with a lean spike when I went WOT and we fixed that by decreasing Manifold volume files.

 

[Swervedriver]

It takes a LOT of work to manifold volume and engine displacement.

Took me several days of trial and error.

 

[TXEnginerd]

I am on my second tuner. I thought it was my first tuner that was the problem. I'm currently using rick at Amazon. He's been trying to help me figure out what is going on, unlike the first tuner I was using. Rick was thinking a bad MAF as well, So I bought a new MAF

I went through the exact same ordeal with Rick due to my gen 2 high boost and BA2600 combo. Eventually I gave up and bought PRP. It looks like you finally got it sorted out though so congrats.

I have seen this personally on my car. With the Gen 2 High Boost and a VMP 3500 slot MAF the counts jump around +/- 15 to 20 at idle and even during cruise. If the transfer function isn't *perfect* you will have idle issues and well as possibly some bucking/hitching during cruise.

This is because with the dirty signal the PCM is always jumping between MAF points. If the points don't make a smooth transition then fuelling will always be changing.

I had a less dirty signal with the original High Boost intake and BA2400. I used a piece of screen in front of the MAF to clean up the signal. With the screen it only varies +/- 5 to 7 counts.

Riley

I see the same thing at idle with the gen 2 intake and 2600 MAF. I was trying to get the MAF curve dialed in perfectly and went through countless iterations of adjustments and logs to do so. I have it about as good as it's going to get without doing something drastic. Do you have pics of the screen you added or more info?



And, the 2600 value file was way off for me as well. So much so that I couldn't get high enough airflow values without rescaling the injectors manually (I was hitting the 63.9 upper limit of the MAF table).

Instead of rescaling the injectors though, I used the BP Modifier method to get more airflow. You basically load a stock tune, then 93 octane and your injector value files. Then instead of loading the MAF value file, you double the value in the BP Modifier scalars. That effectively doubles the airflow values in the MAF table and you can proceed with tweaking them to get your AFR in line.

It was so much easier than trying to deal with manual scaling of injector values and this way you get to leave manifold volume and engine displacement set to the stock values. There's a good thread on PRP forums for those of you looking to know more. That's where I learned how to do it.

 

[Kevin @ Wicked]

I don't have any issues with any of the cars Ive done with the NXTGen high boost. I build all my own air models (maf x-fer) and don't rely on any of the value files or "given "curves"

While I may have counts that jump around a bit, its no different that what I see on centri cars with a slot style and blow thru. Perfectly tunable.

 

[Kevin @ Wicked]

I just checked a current log of the most recent calibration, 5-12 maf count swing at idle.

Car tuned out just fine. This also had my own custom maf curve installed, roughly a BA3000 curve in the larger JLT tube.

 

[04cobradude]

the only issues i have seen with maf counts jumping is when there is a nipple near the maf... like the iac etc... the older TVS's with the remote IAC had this issue IIRC

 

[TVSCobra]

BA2600 and JLT CAI HB here, tuned by Bob Kurgan.

 

[Skud]

Do you have pics of the screen you added or more info?

I haven't put a screen on the Gen 2 yet because I went back to the Gen 1 trying to troubleshoot some other issues.

On the Gen 1 I used some screen mesh like you can buy for repairing a screen door. I cut a circle with a diameter large enough to put over the end of the intake tube and give an extra 2 - 3" that I can fold around the edges. Then, I put the intake back together and used the silicone coupler to hold the screen tight. I bought some T-bolt style band clamps to make sure everything was tight and the pressure was consistent.

Riley

 

[ctgreddy]

For all the guys having issues, why not just sell the hb intake and run a normal jlt rai style? I doubt the hp gain is worth all the hastles when trying to go thru a mail order source especially on an upper only car.

 

[Bdubbs]

For all the guys having issues, why not just sell the hb intake and run a normal jlt rai style? I doubt the hp gain is worth all the hastles when trying to go thru a mail order source especially on an upper only car.

Yeah this thread has got me thinking on keeping my JLT RAI. I planned on a JLT HB when I swap for a tvs blower. Would be nice to hear the hp differences.

 

[BdJames]

I hadthe BA 2400 with high boost on my eaton with 2.93 upper and 4 Lb lower.

I know have that on my KB and its fine. Was tuned by Pete at Performance Dyno.

What kind of numbers did you make when you had the high boost and eaton?

 

[greenflash00]

For all the guys having issues, why not just sell the hb intake and run a normal jlt rai style? I doubt the hp gain is worth all the hastles when trying to go thru a mail order source especially on an upper only car.

Found this comparison with the high boost. Looks like it did pretty well! :rockon:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ext-gen-12-high-boost-cai-test-e85-cobra.html

 

[Bigggy]

I did buy the High boost with a BA2600. I was previously running a JLT RAI with the stock MAF + MAFia. Running the car with the orignal tune donned by Steeda or the mail order tune from BAMA the car ran great on both tune with this setup.

The moment I've installed the HB with the BA2600 (and a new tune from BAMA) the car ran like sh*t.. could not get in to boost at all.

Now I see why...

If I still want to run a BAMA tune for the beginning of the summer, I think I will stay with the Ram Air. It would be PITA data logging the HB and sending that to BAMA to get it fixed.

 

[ctgreddy]

Found this comparison with the high boost. Looks like it did pretty well! :rockon:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ext-gen-12-high-boost-cai-test-e85-cobra.html

on a big setup like that, 3.4 w/ e85 and 24lbs of boost I can easily see the high boost making those gains. but for the costs of a highboost/maf I dont see it being worth the extra 15whp. especially when at a lower level, for instance upper only cars, or even just a basic whipple car I doubt you'd see quite that gain.

 

[cj428mach]

Yeah this thread has got me thinking on keeping my JLT RAI. I planned on a JLT HB when I swap for a tvs blower. Would be nice to hear the hp differences.

Just get the true cold air.

 

[BdJames]

on a big setup like that, 3.4 w/ e85 and 24lbs of boost I can easily see the high boost making those gains. but for the costs of a highboost/maf I dont see it being worth the extra 15whp. especially when at a lower level, for instance upper only cars, or even just a basic whipple car I doubt you'd see quite that gain.

Not that I am arguing with you or anyone, just thought I would post this article I read. Believe what you will.

12-inch High-Boost Cold Air Intake Kit - High-Boost Termi CAI - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine All Pages

 

[BdJames]

I hope to learn a lot from this thread. I am investigating, much like others, whether this is a viable option for my car. The hp gains look promising, hoping there are not any problems trying to dial in the a/f mixture on the dyno.

 

[amhauke]

Just thought I would share my 2cent worth of experience on this issue. I to have the JLT high boost CAI with the molded in MAF. My setup is a TVS with all supporting engine/fuel mods and a BA3000 MAF.

Last fall when I completed my build I needed a tune of course. So during my session my tuner made the comment about the MAF counts being "dirty". He made the comment it could be the dyno fans blowing turbulent air into the fender mount air filter. Well, after the tuning session my idle was all over the place and would "flutter'. He tried his best to accommodate it in the tune and worked almost 80% out.

My car has 11k miles on it and I would not be happy with a inconsistent idle. After dealing with it for a bit I decided to try and get to the bottom of it. I did some research and found where some people would have an issue because the air filter was up to far on the end of the CAI. So I adjusted that and still no better. After digging some more on the web I found a comment about the screen placed before the MAF on OEM setups. So this got my attention. I read that OEM's would place the screen before the MAF to smooth out the turbulent air. This would be the case with the 90deg bend and then a short distance for the air to smooth out before the MAF on the JLT.

So not wanting to cut up my new CAI, I bought a used one and experimented in case I was traveling a path that led nowhere. I cut it in half between the MAF block and the center of the air charge temperature sensor opening. That left about an 1" of "meat" for the silicone coupler. I went to Lowe's and bought a roll of fiberglass door screen. I cut a large piece and placed it over the end of the MAF side opening and slid the coupler over it holding it in place. I tightened up the clamp while pulling the excess on the outside to take up the slack on the inside. After tightening the clamp and pleased, I trimmed the excess from the outside.

Long story short. I put everything back together and the idle issue went away immediately. Now the idle comes down and sits right on 850 as commanded in the tune and doesn't hiccup. Not only did this fix the issue but it will allow easy removal of the upper half of the CAI if need be. I also noticed the idle is much smoother revving up and down.

This is only my personal experience but I hope this helps everyone out!

 

[greenflash00]

Just thought I would share my 2cent worth of experience on this issue. I to have the JLT high boost CAI with the molded in MAF. My setup is a TVS with all supporting engine/fuel mods and a BA3000 MAF.

Last fall when I completed my build I needed a tune of course. So during my session my tuner made the comment about the MAF counts being "dirty". He made the comment it could be the dyno fans blowing turbulent air into the fender mount air filter. Well, after the tuning session my idle was all over the place and would "flutter'. He tried his best to accommodate it in the tune and worked almost 80% out.

My car has 11k miles on it and I would not be happy with a inconsistent idle. After dealing with it for a bit I decided to try and get to the bottom of it. I did some research and found where some people would have an issue because the air filter was up to far on the end of the CAI. So I adjusted that and still no better. After digging some more on the web I found a comment about the screen placed before the MAF on OEM setups. So this got my attention. I read that OEM's would place the screen before the MAF to smooth out the turbulent air. This would be the case with the 90deg bend and then a short distance for the air to smooth out before the MAF on the JLT.

So not wanting to cut up my new CAI, I bought a used one and experimented in case I was traveling a path that led nowhere. I cut it in half between the MAF block and the center of the air charge temperature sensor opening. That left about an 1" of "meat" for the silicone coupler. I went to Lowe's and bought a roll of fiberglass door screen. I cut a large piece and placed it over the end of the MAF side opening and slid the coupler over it holding it in place. I tightened up the clamp while pulling the excess on the outside to take up the slack on the inside. After tightening the clamp and pleased, I trimmed the excess from the outside.

Long story short. I put everything back together and the idle issue went away immediately. Now the idle comes down and sits right on 850 as commanded in the tune and doesn't hiccup. Not only did this fix the issue but it will allow easy removal of the upper half of the CAI if need be. I also noticed the idle is much smoother revving up and down.

This is only my personal experience but I hope this helps everyone out!

Now that is come good info!