Well they are advertised as being 14". :rollseyes
FTBR brake install (front and rear)
- Thread starter Tob
- Start date
Well they are advertised as being 14". :rollseyes
I think he likes working on the car more than driving it, I know the feeling I really enjoy adding parts to the car, myself. And I do have more time adding parts than driving it. alot more!!!
Nice work!!!
You picked up on that eh? Well you're right. Wrenching on fine machinery has always put a smile on my face.:-D
I took quite a few photos for this mod and I think they may provide some worthwhile insight to anyone on the fence. This one is easy when you eliminate the unknown. Let's see if I can win over at least one individual that may want to dive into the brakes but doesn't have much practical experience with S197 brakes (or any brakes for that matter).
Here's an exploded service view and list that identifies the individual parts that comprise the rear brakes on our beloved S197's...
Once you remove the wheel/tire assembly you can access the two caliper bolts (#6). I removed them and set the caliper on a ramp so that they wouldn't be hanging. Makes them easy to work on as well.
In order to remove the brake caliper anchor plate (#7), you have to remove the two brake caliper guide pin bolts (#1). You can see one at my thumb and the other at my index finger (13mm wrench).
Flipped over, this is what you'd see...
The pads just about fall out at this point...
The two spring clips (#4) lift right out of place...
This is what you are left with...
You are now ready to rework the 'cage' to fit the adapter plates in Bruce's kit. You'll need a 5/16" allen socket, torque wrench, vice, a small amount of blue loctite, grinder/file/belt sander/mill (or whatever else you have to get the job done) to knock the 'humps' down a bit.
Here's the caliper piston that needs to be pushed back into its respective bore in order to allow installation of the new rotors (note the slots in the piston that run vertically)...
I successfully used a spanner wrench for a 4" grinder but Ford shows this tool in their service manual...
I took a baseline measurement to see how much of a gap I had...
Again, I used the wrench I had in order to turn the piston clockwise (along with some inward pressure) until I had the needed room...
You need to finish with the slot in a vertical position so that the pad locating pin can be engaged...
Everything goes right back together (with Bruce's adapter now along for the ride)...
Spring clips and pads slip right back into place...
Slip the new rotor into place and bolt the entire caliper assembly into place (etc) and you're done!
For contrast, I slipped both old and new rotors into place at the same time...
Anyway, both rears are done.
Fronts are even easier!
You'd love a caliper tool set like this: Performance Tool Brake Caliper Service Kits W89200 - SummitRacing.com
You'd love a caliper tool set like this: Performance Tool Brake Caliper Service Kits W89200 - SummitRacing.com
+1 - Nice tool set for sure.
You'd love a caliper tool set like this: Performance Tool Brake Caliper Service Kits W89200 - SummitRacing.com
That is similar to the one I bought from J.C. Whitney several years ago. It's a very nice tool! :-D
I was originally using the CUBE type tool for the rear calipers after a failed attempt with needle nose pliers:
That thing was the biggest POS tool I ever purchased and came close to hurling it out into the street many times.
Picked up that tool kit from HF and it makes the job a breeze. Plenty of places have them.
Ivan, referring back to this shot...
...I suppose if were to substitute the factory caliper bolts for exact length bolts, you could probably get by. Except they'd need to be a hair short and factoring in the bolt taper at the start of the threads, you'd be giving up some useable thread - probably not a good thing. A slightly larger diameter rotor ring would allow moving the adapter bracket bolt hole centerlines to be placed further apart as well. That would mean a slightly 'taller' adapter bracket. Problem with that (WAG here) is that you'd probably be looking at a non-standard ring $ize.
I had no qualms whatsoever in removing the minimum amount of material necessary for clearance in order to use this kit.
Ron, I have one of those cubes in a drawer somewhere. I haven't been able to find it since I put it there (where ever 'there' is). Here's a shot of the aforementioned tool in action (I made the caliper a sexy pink hue just to catch your eye).
...I suppose if were to substitute the factory caliper bolts for exact length bolts, you could probably get by. Except they'd need to be a hair short and factoring in the bolt taper at the start of the threads, you'd be giving up some useable thread - probably not a good thing. A slightly larger diameter rotor ring would allow moving the adapter bracket bolt hole centerlines to be placed further apart as well. That would mean a slightly 'taller' adapter bracket. Problem with that (WAG here) is that you'd probably be looking at a non-standard ring $ize.
I had no qualms whatsoever in removing the minimum amount of material necessary for clearance in order to use this kit.
Ron, I have one of those cubes in a drawer somewhere. I haven't been able to find it since I put it there (where ever 'there' is). Here's a shot of the aforementioned tool in action (I made the caliper a sexy pink hue just to catch your eye).
Making the caliper relocation bracket to accomodate NO modification to the caliper mounting bracket would have required a larger diameter rotor and also offsetting the caliper further out from it's original position. My thoughts were I did not want to add that much leverage to the rear brakes for fear of needing to add a brake bias adjuster. I tested the existing kit and it steps up the rear braking capacity nicely without adding too much rear brake to the vehicle.
This kit requires sanding two points off of the caliper bracket a total of about 1/4". It's not that big of a deal, really. :-D
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
Thanks for this detail as well, particularly regarding no need for brake bias adjuster. All this clarity without a physics class :thumbsup:.
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I finished up the front rotor installation this afternoon. Once the wheel/tire are removed you are two 15mm bolts away from this...
And while I plan to add the appropriate ducting at a later date, I elected to slip in a pair of Bruce's exquisite brake cooling ducts now. They weigh as much as a couple of sheets of paper, are extremely rigid, and the construction/materials are first rate. Everything lined up perfectly. A really simple addition...
They are a perfect match for Bruce's beautiful rotors...
I'll be reusing my near new OE pads until the rotors are properly seasoned. Then I'll slip in the set of Ferodo's I got from Bruce...
Changing front pads is really simple too. Since so many have probably missed it, here's a link from the 'How To' section that illustrates how easy it is...
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/392589-shelby-front-brake-pad-removal-replacement.html
This has been a very satisfying upgrade. Less unsprung weight and greater braking capability. The aggressive appearance of the two piece rotors is a welcomed bonus as well. Thanks to Bruce at Full Tilt Boogie Racing for offering such a great product line.
Tob
On deck...Recaro's...
And while I plan to add the appropriate ducting at a later date, I elected to slip in a pair of Bruce's exquisite brake cooling ducts now. They weigh as much as a couple of sheets of paper, are extremely rigid, and the construction/materials are first rate. Everything lined up perfectly. A really simple addition...
They are a perfect match for Bruce's beautiful rotors...
I'll be reusing my near new OE pads until the rotors are properly seasoned. Then I'll slip in the set of Ferodo's I got from Bruce...
Changing front pads is really simple too. Since so many have probably missed it, here's a link from the 'How To' section that illustrates how easy it is...
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/392589-shelby-front-brake-pad-removal-replacement.html
This has been a very satisfying upgrade. Less unsprung weight and greater braking capability. The aggressive appearance of the two piece rotors is a welcomed bonus as well. Thanks to Bruce at Full Tilt Boogie Racing for offering such a great product line.
Tob
On deck...Recaro's...
Tob, what do you think about adding SS lines and better fluid now that your rotors and and pads have been maximized?
I did purchase brake fluid from Bruce as well.
Lines have been on my mind for some time now. I'm contemplating the FRPP Boss brake lines. I honestly don't think I'll ever be thrashing this car enough to necessitate a braided line. And as for ducting, I plan on removing the fog lights and using that location instead of the lower grille.
Lines have been on my mind for some time now. I'm contemplating the FRPP Boss brake lines. I honestly don't think I'll ever be thrashing this car enough to necessitate a braided line. And as for ducting, I plan on removing the fog lights and using that location instead of the lower grille.
Was thinking about getting a set of rotors for the car for auto season this year. Think this is the route I might have to take. Was looking at the slotted and dimpled one but guess I'll have to save up a few more quarters. This is the third write up I've seen with no welding, what gives Tob.
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