How much power can these new 5.0 motors handle?

[Mike50]

Yep, use will dictate actual life. Someone could be at 750 and granny the thing all the time with an occasional romp and it live for 50k while a guy at 525 who beats it at the track every weekend is opening the motor at 10k. People will also need to understand that with increased power comes increased maintenance efforts.

You guys are making me feel paranoid now. I've been running around feeling relatively safe (576 RWHP). In the back of my mind, I keep thinking about all the guys on here dragging and tracking their 5.0's with 620+ RWHP.

Just so I understand the consequences, what am I looking at as far as money goes? Can the entire engine be toasted? What if it's just a rod, or just a piston? I wouldn't have attempted the SC install myself, let alone building an engine, so I would have to pay someone to do it. Do performance shops like Evolution and JDM do that? How much would it cost to have all the forged whatchamacallits installed, including labor? Has anyone done this yet, or do most people wait for something catastrophic to happen first, then invest in a rebuild?

 

[slagburn]

You guys are making me feel paranoid now. I've been running around feeling relatively safe (576 RWHP). In the back of my mind, I keep thinking about all the guys on here dragging and tracking their 5.0's with 620+ RWHP.

Just so I understand the consequences, what am I looking at as far as money goes? Can the entire engine be toasted? What if it's just a rod, or just a piston? I wouldn't have attempted the SC install myself, let alone building an engine, so I would have to pay someone to do it. Do performance shops like Evolution and JDM do that? How much would it cost to have all the forged whatchamacallits installed, including labor? Has anyone done this yet, or do most people wait for something catastrophic to happen first, then invest in a rebuild?

Not trying to add to any paranoia at all but engine issues aren't cheap. Most don't catch a rod before it fails completely which will normally destroy the block. Enough of a bend can twist the piston into the wall and cause bore damage. Likewise, at the bottom of the rod a twist can side load it and dig into the side of the crank journal. A guy could just put a set of rods in but the motor would need to be disassembled and balanced for them. Then why put stock pistons back in, they won't take much abuse. In a well tuned engine they will live a long time if kept out of det, mine looked perfect.

If someone had a perfect condition stock motor you could just put in rods and pistons, balanced to your crank, skip the ARP hardware and throw in some oil pump gears and Boss valve springs for maybe 2500 doing everything yourself. That is assuming you can get stock bore forged pistons that fit exactly to your bore size, we're talking a within a half thousandth of an inch ideal dimension. My bores were fine but I opted for a slight oversize to get a fresh surface for the rings, not ball honed. When you bore there needs to be torque plates involved. They're not cheap and your local machine shop probably doesn't have one for a Coyote.

It kind of makes a complete engine or shortblock sound appealing instead of accumulating parts from various vendors and then waiting for a machine shop. You know for a fact that when the big crate shows up that the battle is almost over instead of waiting for this, and that, running parts all over town. But some people enjoy that.

 

[D.T.R]

Everyone is only looking at PSI from boosting. What about nitrous? How much can it handle? Is a 150 shot with a progressive ramped up over the 1200ft (of the 1320) any worse than boost? Is a 100 shot from the hit a hard wear and tear compared to a TS? Etc..>!

it seems like the most people push on 93 gas is a 175 shot (which I will be doing soon hopefully)... I think nitrous is actually easier on your motor.. because you don't have to spray when you commute... or go to the store... the car will drive like a stock car... there is no blower or turbo spinning or anything... now when you want to run, you flip a switch and that's it.
I'm running a 100 shot from 4k to 7k RPMs.. and it seems fine... it's not that violent like people make it out to be.

 

[seank]

Yeah I'm not sure why you would go through all the trouble of sourcing and machining anything yourself when you can get a built short block from MMR for $2000.

Like I said before, my opinions are most definitely not to be taken as anything but an opinion. I'm not looking to scare anyone. However, you do need to realize what you are requiring from the engine when you increase the power by 25-50%. Also, when you are pushing it that much harder you will need to maintain more items more frequently.

In the end that data sample we have right now is entirely too small, seeing that the motor has been in public hands for just about 2 years. Also, the wide range of possible uses people are requiring from these motors doesn't enable us to have a concrete number.

 

[2011redcandy]

Yeah I'm not sure why you would go through all the trouble of sourcing and machining anything yourself when you can get a built short block from MMR for $2000.

MMR :nono:

Anyone who has been around Mustangs long enough knows about there practices. Do some research before buying anything from these guys.

 

[D.T.R]

^ ORLY?
i had no idea...

 

[seank]

Well this is my first one so I don't have experience with them. A quick google search brought up some stuff, but in general people are much more willing to post when they have a bad experience and not so much when they have a good one. I just brought them up b/c they recently posted $2000 assembled short blocks.

Lets keep this on track though and not discuss good vs. bad vendors, but what these motors are holding and when they are breaking and the conditions that lead to that.

 

[grnenvy]

Detonation is the problem not the motors. Alot of psi is shakey with 93 octane. .
U can have the best pistons in the world and melt them like butter with detonation due to bad gas or low octane.

If u could run around on 116 u could push the boost alot more.

 

[D.T.R]

one word for you...














e85

 

[seank]

Detonation is the problem not the motors. Alot of psi is shakey with 93 octane. .
U can have the best pistons in the world and melt them like butter with detonation due to bad gas or low octane.

If u could run around on 116 u could push the boost alot more.

That goes for any motor. Like I said earlier on page 2. You can have the best parts, assembled by the best builder. If you have a shit tune none of it matters and it will go boom.

one word for you...














e85

^ Hell yeah! That is, as long as you have easy access to it and are comfortable with the 20-30% drop in fuel economy. Corn juice and meth are two easy solutions to deal with boost and the harsh environment it creates.

 

[Bud]

Detonation is the problem not the motors. Alot of psi is shakey with 93 octane. .
U can have the best pistons in the world and melt them like butter with detonation due to bad gas or low octane.

If u could run around on 116 u could push the boost alot more.

A dood here bent a rod on gas with zero det marks on the top of that piston or any others. Loves me some e85 for being less det prone but when we run it we get crazy and crank up the timing which is lots of stress on the bottom end. The rods seem to be the weak link after the oil pump gears if you aren't just straight burning pistons.

 

[11GT50]

Yep, use will dictate actual life. Someone could be at 750 and granny the thing all the time with an occasional romp and it live for 50k while a guy at 525 who beats it at the track every weekend is opening the motor at 10k. People will also need to understand that with increased power comes increased maintenance efforts.

Exactly.

You could run 650 whp and baby it and be fine. You could also run 550 whp and beat the christ out of it and pop your motor in a few thousand miles. All depends on what you want to do with it.

People tend to forget about all of the non-motor, ancillary items too. Driveshaft, half shafts, rear end, clutch etc. - they'll all suffer under increased power. It's worth it to take your time to do it right rather than slap a supercharger on there to make crazy power and then have a time bomb that's breaking down every few thousand miles for some reason or another.

 

[Djstorm100]

How much power can auto handle and what mods need to be done to the auto? Converter? Better cooling?

 

[stang910]

I'd say the auto can handle 700 rwhp pretty easy and 800 is starting to push it. Lots of guys staying with the stock converter with boost. Wish mine was an auto....