To Corn or not to Corn

[adanymous]

I have an 03 cobra that is pretty heavily modded and Im thinking of putting it on E85 and could use some input.

The first owner put a 2.8 whipple, all supporting mods, stage 3 cams, aftermarket intercooler and coolant tank, and a few other things in the car and had it tuned. The second owner didnt make any engine mods to my knowledge, I am the third and all I have done in the engine bay is add a killer chiller. Its still on the original owners tune which has a street tune which puts it at 636 wheel on 93 octane and a race tune that puts it at 693 but I have to run Torco in the tank. That stuff is a giant PITA to get and super spendy. So I am thinkin of putting it on corn to save the Torco hassle and I can run around with an extra 60hp. My concern is that I wonder if I am nearing the limits of the stock short block, and I have heard that E85 can add a bit of horsepower. Ive never done an E85 car so my knowledge of it is limited, but this car is ready for it other than it needs injectors everything else is is there.

I looked at this a couple of years ago and it looked like the only option was from injector dynamics which was really expensive. Is there a better option now.

 

[adanymous]

Also, I live in SC and found a mustang tuner in Ft Mill SC. I dont remember his name but was curios if anyone knows if hes any good? If not is there a recommended guy around here?

 

[cj428mach]

Going to need id1300s, maybe more fuel system and a retune. Also the stock lower will be on borrowed time in my opinion.

 

[lemosley01]

You're probably thinking of ProDyno. I have no experience with him, but a number of guys on here do. I've only seen positive feedback.

 

[Nightmare302]

You can run Bosch 105's, you do NOT need 1300's. A good tune and E85 will be fine. The stock shortblocks can pop at 600 or last over 1k. The biggest issues is heat (tight PTW clearance from the factory causes pistons to melt when really hot), the factory head bolts on big boost and the large supercharger pulling on the crank.

 

[adanymous]

[QUOTE=" The biggest issues is heat (tight PTW clearance from the factory causes pistons to melt when really hot), the factory head bolts on big boost and the large supercharger pulling on the crank.[/QUOTE]

Any chance you could un acronym PTW for me. I have no idea what that is.

So if I understand this correctly I need a crank, rods, and pistons to pour anymore coal to this thing. Or is there something that can be done about the supercharger/crank issue?

A tuner I was taking to in the past recommended ID 2000 I believe. Said I would max out a set of 1300s if I did anymore power mods. I think it was the same problem with Bosch 105s and if Im not mistaken they dont make a bigger size.

 

[MG0h3]

Pretty sure Id1000s will cover most of what you want to do on a factory long block, safely anyways. Its always better to over build in my opinion but my car came with these and Im just fine. If you only plan to run up to 700whp youll be fine. Same with rotating assy. Guys been running around for 30k miles at 700whp on the factory stuff.

The whipple is likely a 2.9l. 2.8l is a kenne size.

PTW=piston to wall clearance.

Ive been on a 2.9l for years and my lower is fine...knock on wood.

 

[nxhappy]

return system is the best route for corn

 

[cj428mach]

I should have been more clear, your lower pulley will be on borrowed time not the motor, it'll be fine.

I recommended 1300s because I maxed out my 1000s. I have a buddy that did the same, so rather than risk it, I say go bigger.

 

[MG0h3]

Damn man about what HP or boost were you at when you maxed 1000s?


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[c6zhombre]

This isn't even debatable....without question you and the motor are far better off running ethanol. Case closed.

Now does that mean other parts might be necessary depending on how much boost you run? Yes. But you could always pulley down make less boost, generate lower IAT2s and still make more HP/TQ than a comparable boost setup for the pump gas AND torco. And have more low end and more mid range. Just because you choose ethanol doesn't mean you have to spin it 25+psi. I'd rather run lower boost and achieve all the massive cooling benefits of ethanol than run pump gas plus torco. It's up to you and the tuner to figure thru data logs how far you can go before maxing out injector/pump/lines/maf/etc....

 

[adanymous]

Pretty sure Id1000s will cover most of what you want to do on a factory long block, safely anyways. Its always better to over build in my opinion but my car came with these and Im just fine. If you only plan to run up to 700whp youll be fine. Same with rotating assy. Guys been running around for 30k miles at 700whp on the factory stuff.

The whipple is likely a 2.9l. 2.8l is a kenne size.

PTW=piston to wall clearance.

Ive been on a 2.9l for years and my lower is fine...knock on wood.

My understanding is this car has had the whipple on it since tens of miles after purchase. Along with most of the other engine mods.

 

[adanymous]

This isn't even debatable....without question you and the motor are far better off running ethanol. Case closed.

Now does that mean other parts might be necessary depending on how much boost you run? Yes. But you could always pulley down make less boost, generate lower IAT2s and still make more HP/TQ than a comparable boost setup for the pump gas AND torco. And have more low end and more mid range. Just because you choose ethanol doesn't mean you have to spin it 25+psi. I'd rather run lower boost and achieve all the massive cooling benefits of ethanol than run pump gas plus torco. It's up to you and the tuner to figure thru data logs how far you can go before maxing out injector/pump/lines/maf/etc....

great info man, I really appreciate it.

 

[adanymous]

Thanks for all the replies, and thanks for putting up with my ignorance. I have owned this car for 4 years but I rarely get to play with it (I havent put 2k miles on it). Im taking a bit more time than I used to, so now Im gonna play with it. I dont even know all of the mods on the car. Seems like everytime I get into something I find more aftermarket stuff. I think Im gonna check with that tuner in Ft Mill SC and see what he recommends. But Im definitely feeling the corn.

 

[NateDogg]

I'll be running almost the exact same set up as you and I plan on e85. hoping for 700rwhp

 

[evolve]

Can confirm. Ethanol is amazing if you can get it. Night and day difference. I went from 650rwhp to over 730rwhp on it. The timing and cooling effects are incredible.

 

[Nightmare302]

Run a stock caged lower, leave the short block alone, run 105's (and the rest of a return fuel system). Make 700-750 rwhp spend very little coin.

If you want to go big, new pistons, arp head studs/main studs, arp 2000 rod bolt upgrade, skip the ID injectors and put the money towards a holley hp setup run holley injectors. Make more power safer spend a lot more money.

You need to decide where this journey ends. If you want 750 and that's it you do not need ID 1300 or 2000's that is beyond overkill.

 

[mkb116]

Run a stock caged lower, leave the short block alone, run 105's (and the rest of a return fuel system). Make 700-750 rwhp spend very little coin.

If you want to go big, new pistons, arp head studs/main studs, arp 2000 rod bolt upgrade, skip the ID injectors and put the money towards a holley hp setup run holley injectors. Make more power safer spend a lot more money.

You need to decide where this journey ends. If you want 750 and that's it you do not need ID 1300 or 2000's that is beyond overkill.

Listen to the above advice. ID1000's are sufficient for 700 wheel.

Make sure you have a head cooling mod, keep an eye on your iat2's temps. (Air temp after its compressed by the blower) You'll be fine on your motor.

 

[cj428mach]

Damn man about what HP or boost were you at when you maxed 1000s?


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

I dunno, I self tune on the street. I make enough power to maxout ID1000's and to blow 3rd gear out of my t56 on the street with drag radials is all I know. Its just a TVS with 2.9" upper 4lb caged lower.

Depending upon the boost level this guy decides to take it to he'll be very close if not maxing out ID1000's but thats just based off my experience and others. I believe I even read that Bdubbs is in the low 90's injector duty cycle with ID1000's, e85 and a TVS.

I'd think its too much of a gamble especially with a Whipple that requires removal of the blower, plus extra tuner time just to find out that the injectors weren't enough.

 

[Zemedici]

I dunno, I self tune on the street. I make enough power to maxout ID1000's and to blow 3rd gear out of my t56 on the street with drag radials is all I know. Its just a TVS with 2.9" upper 4lb caged lower.

Depending upon the boost level this guy decides to take it to he'll be very close if not maxing out ID1000's but thats just based off my experience and others. I believe I even read that Bdubbs is in the low 90's injector duty cycle with ID1000's, e85 and a TVS.

I'd think its too much of a gamble especially with a Whipple that requires removal of the blower, plus extra tuner time just to find out that the injectors weren't enough.

How fast does the car run in the 1/4? Just curious, as breaking shit doesn't mean the cars fast. And Fwiw I know of plenty of cars making over 700 on ID1000s, depends on the car.